2005-2015 Nissan Frontier 2-Wheel Drive
Front Brake Pads w/ Hardware: http://amzn.to/2CzwPvQ
Front Brake Rotors: http://amzn.to/2COx3ml
Rear Brake Pads w/ Hardware: http://amzn.to/2CzxmxQ
Rear Brake Rotors: http://amzn.to/2CwsKbL
Single Piston Caliper Tool: https://amzn.to/2JF0ytA
Dual Piston Caliper Tool :https://amzn.to/2HkQWCW
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If you don't open the valves you'll damage the diaphragm in the master cylinder,which keeps fluid trapped in that line!!! And you force it the wrong way ,I've done breaks like this several times only to end up with failing break pressure days later from leaking break fluid from the master cylinder, in large vehicles,and can leak inside the diaphragm and not outside for a while where your breaks are constantly locking up ……open the valves,then compress the calipers,then bleed the brakes when done!!! Only safe and correct and cheapest option to it right!!!
Really great video! Today I'll order the parts from your links. I hope you will get your commission on that. Question I have is I see you adjusting the shoes on the rear combo rotor to be snug. Is the emergency handle fully engaged? Seems it would need to not be in order to get the rotor off. And if it is engaged it seems the handle would be really hard to pull when the shoe is so snug to begin with.
Why do you not mention WHAT SIZE THE BOLTS ARE,,,GHEEZ
Wtf slow down
What the name of those scissors clamp you use to compress the piston
Thanks for the video . i need to work on 06 frontier this week.
And very glad and appreciate your time for showing us. How to do the right thing.
GOD bless you
Buen video gracias
Why did you speed it up? I had to slow it down to .5 speed.
Hmmm….No one asked about those caliper spreaders. Where can I get one of those????
Thanks for the video. I was able to do my rear pads and rotors on my 2015 Xterra.
Thank you for showing us how to do the work and not giving us some long story or lecture. I'm glad you didn't edit out the part when you forgot to put the clips back on the front caliper. I'm that guy that always forgets something, so it makes for a good reminder.
Unnecessary break job on front. just clean rust from Rotors. there was plenty of meat still on pads.
Dude, you can’t create a tutorial video for the most critical safety components on an automobile and completely skip over any mentioning of the importance of properly torquing the caliper bolts upon reassembly. Having a disclaimer at the start of your video isn’t going to stop every new DIY’er from following exactly what you say (or don’t say)
It’s a great video for people whom has some experience but for beginners would be better if you tell nuts sizes and stuff like that. And also if the pads and rotors were that bad of course you had to use grease on the pins. Btw still good video
good gosh man us some caliper grease on those shims and new pads unless you like loud brakes.
“Kink the brake”
As an industrial mechanic who barely beat stage 4 cancer, DON'T SPRAY BRAKE CLEAN OR ANY PETROLEUM DISTILLATE ON YOUR BARE SKIN!!!
The slide pins were not serviced ( Big Mistake ) Bore and pins should have been examined for wear. Bore and pins should have been cleaned and lubricated. Bellows should have been replaced. Correct lubricant for all parts should have been used. Stainless steal break pad clips should have been replaced or cleaned and then lubricated with correct lubricant.
Cleanliness is very important. De-rusting of parts is important. Rusty parts should be cleaned or replaced with new parts. The master cylinder should be be drained of old fluid before the start of this repair. After depression of the caliper piston, the master cylinder should be drained again of old fluid and replaced with new fluid. Lubricant should be applied to the mechanical surfaces that come in contact with the back of the new disc pads.
All mounting bolts should be cleaned and properly lubricated to help with future repair dis-assembly.
As many replacement parts are available for this type of break service, should be replaced and properly lubricated.