How to remove and install a Timing Belt on a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4 L (part 2)
Part 2 – 2003 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4 L Timing Belt Installation
69
Like
Save
){kind=link}
- Tags:
2003, Belt, GALANT, installation, Mitsubishi, Part, Timing
- Categories: Mitsubishi
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Thanks for video! Ill be tackling this tomorrow on an 03 Sebring with the same motor, hopefully I have no valve damage. I see you’re in El Paso too, I recognized the EPCC and Diana exits towards the end of the video haha.
I replaced the timing belt, water pump and belt tensioner and the crank seal and cam seals on a mitsubishi 3.0 on a 94 voyager…1 day tear down and 1 day assembly, changed oil and coolant too.
I think it’s great that people are learning to do this kind of repair on their cars…it saves a ton of cash and the tools that you buy to do the job are just a bonus…I just did a mitsubishi 3.0 in a 94 voyager and the hardest part was getting the power steering pump bolts back in…that was a pain in the ass.
Nice job man thank you for the video really help me out
I suppose you don’t need to if you are sure the oil sprocket is aligned properly with its mark. Like it shows in the video at time line 01:07, I turn the sprocket lightly by hand & it eventually rotates a bit on it’s own & then stops near the mark. It won’t stop dead on & align with the mark…you would need to align it yourself but you would know that the sprocket is in the correct position. I did the screw driver thing because that’s what I found in my research. Thanks for the post!
Mark thanks for your video. YOU’RE the man!!!!
mark did you really need to put the screwdriver to make sure the oil pump is good?
I am currently in process of buying a timing belt kit and new drive belts to replace on my Diamante. Very similar to that engine except, mines is a V-6. Little nervous on doing this job but then again I use to do jet engine mechanics so I shouldn’t be. Really need to save money and cannot afford to have the car sitting in the shop for days when I have an All data diy account. This video really gave me the final confidence I needed. lol. Thanks for posting!
Great video. I’ve done timing belts before but was a little unsure of this one due to the silent shaft belt. I found this video very helpful in showing me what I needed to know.
Don’t listen to Ryan…he sounds like an uneducated troll.
Sorry John, I’m not sure if you are talking about the Crank Sensor Wheel? It sort of looks a bit like a shield (silver & thin) that rotates for the the crank position sensor. If so, I don’t believe there is a seal behind it but am not exactly sure. I looked up some diagrams on the internet for this part & didn’t seen anything like a seal with it. Sorry I can’t give you a 100% answer.
I am doing this job right now but not until after the belt blew off so it has a replacement head. I finished that a couple days ago. The lower belt shield was damaged and I have a new shield but there seems to be no crank seal on it. Did they go without a seal behind the vibration dampener? The old shield was eaten and melted by the damaged balancer so I can’t tell. I don’t believe there is but wanted to be sure.
Yeah…what was I thinking trying to save money! Oh well I had to give up those savings anyway. I gave the Galant to my Son & bought a 2013 Ford Fusion but two months later the AC compressor failed on the Galant & I paid $1,300.00 for new AC parts & labor. I do majority of work on my cars except for AC & automatic transmissions.
thank you mark….btw…how DARE you try to save 700 dollars by doing it youself..lol THANK YOU SIR.. now my wife and i dont have to share cars anymore..lol
I ran across your tutorial while researching the job for my daughter. You hit the key points very well. It isn’t much different from most SOHC Asian motors, so I should be good to go. Thanks a lot!
Mark ur video was a huge help I had no idea wut I was doing but it’s done first try thanx
Ryan needs to learn English,
Bottom line is – thank god for youtube and for the people who take the time to record and edit to share this vid. Mechanics whine about losing customers – sounds like mechanics who rip people off. Why the f do you care ryan if we up our own car.
Bottom line Ryan is that you don’t sound very intelligent so I doubt I’d trust to have you work on any part of my car. Don’t watch or search for videos like mine since you’re already such a great mechanic…why would you need to? Go fix something. BTW, the car is still running good…
BOTTOM LINE IS LEAVE IT TO US THE MECHANICS THAT DO THIS FOR A LIVING AND WERE THE ONES WHO HAVE TO GO BEHIND A PERSON LIKE URS WORK AND FIX UR FUCK UPS BIG TIMES
timing belt was in strings around my main, runs great with out a valve job thanks for the video
You are the man! Myself and another mech did the job on a 2003 Outlander tonight WITHOUT doing that oil sprocket/screwdriver thing. Guess what? It runs, but like CRAP!!!! After watching your vid, I did it correctly (like you did) and now she purrs like a kitten! The fellow mech and I are both Vets and we thank you for this video and your service! Bravo Zulu!
I put put the screwdriver in it locked like u said but when I put it together the car wouldn’t start. I took it apart this wheel is still off. What do I do now
Thank you! My car was a 2001 Mit Galant ES, but was totaled in Sandy storm. Car ran excellently for seven years, after buying it in 2005… but was flooded last Oct; at 156,929 miles, and may have soon become a candidate for new timing belt! Still very good cars with lots of pick-up power!
Thank you so much for posting this video! Like you, I’ve only done different and older timing belt setups, not newer (Especially Japanese) ones. I wanted to do all of my research before I attempted it to fix my buddy’s car, and your video helped a lot! Thanks so much for posting it!
Very helpful! thank you!
On Part 1 video at the beginning of time frame 11:01, I pretty much show the exact location of the plug & eventually also use a laser pointer because it is sort of hard to find.
coudent find the plug behind the exaust manifold tho….1:10 worked 😀
LOL the oil pump was gear was rong XD
NICE vid i did d a head gasket on my friends 2000 mitchubishi eclips
lol i think i made the timing off a tooth on accident going to dig into it once he gets off work the car almost has no power and all cylenders are firing but sounds like it is missing
Thanks for the compliment! Hope you got some rest & fixed the problem!
Have to agree with Janny Becker – Awesome job. I wish I would have found this video 4 days ago. I have been looking for that plug for the oil pump sprocket for 4 days. I have asked 3 different mechanics for help in identifying the location of this plug and they couldn’t help. I bought a book and did nothing to help me find the location either. Thanks to you. I know where to look. 1:oo a.m. now. I’ll start again in a few hours after I get some sleep. Thanks a lot and again- Awesome job.
touchn the plastic cover,so I puled cover of and dry ran it, still tic tic noise idling and as i rev engin and it changes pitch, so its from that area but al looks ok, rechecked oil pump alignment,okI rechecked everything. i feel it the pickup plate/any suggestions? altrhough it looks fine..and i also cheked outside space between pickup plate and sensor its about 30 thou,so that not touchn an i remove and visualy checkd the cps to assure it not touching the inside of sensor .lost (ty) inadvance
Hi M,03 ,my eclipse/2.4 lite is a well maintained since purchase used, I replaced the the idler and timing belts 30k ago, Last week the car shut down driving along highway/ stripped teeth of the idler belt, pieces of rubber teeth destroyed my CPS ,i replace with mitsu belt and sens,but never replaced this reluctor plate,it looks ok and do not see any type damage on it.I did set up as per your video,starts and runs fine butt here is a ticking noise as if somethin was
Thanks! Still running so I guess I did it right! 🙂
awsome job Mark Been a tech for 34 years could have not done it better!
Sounds like the belt shred & jumped time but is still in place. You have spark at least on one coil so the cam/crank is turning. As far as the other pack not sparking, yes this could be related to a bad crank position sensor, especially if you changed the coil with a good one. As seen in my video, my sensor was totally tore up & would never have started even with a new belt & in time. Only way to be sure is to take off the timing belt cover to check things out. Let me know how things turn out!
Now if that’s the case I heard these are interference engines and I could’ve damaged it, what do you know about that? Did your car die on you while driving? Hope I didn’t bend rods n pistons by trying to crank. Thanks Mark
Mark great vid. I think I may need this job. My was sitting at a drive thru when I a weird low rattling sound then when I pulled off the lot to a red light it died. Noticed that one of my coil packs was not sparking. Changed it still no fire. Looked up some info and led me to certain sensor that could be bad but my other coil is still firing along with that low noise I heard I would say the belt broke and need to check.
yes eclipse 00 to 2005 n galant have the same engine plus the block 4g63 is the same one 4g64
Thanks for watching…Your the second person to mention that the Eclipse has the same 2.4 motor. I think I’ll add that info somewhere in the title as suggested by “Mann81591” in his earlier post. This is my first Mitsubishi timing belt too & is running great. Look for my next video soon in the works where I’ll be making a home made smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks on a car & hopefully at not much of a cost!
Doing the timing belt on my eclipse spyder 4g64. Same motor, good job in explaining the different steps. I’ve done quite a few hondas in my day but this is the first mitsubishi. Came across your video and got it done with no issues. Good job!
It’s hard to say without seeing but I imagine if you didn’t loosen or remove the tensioner pulley, you may be able to just pull the pin to add the tension. If you already loosed, removed, or replaced the pulley, then yes, I would say the pulley would need adjustment. The two small holes on the pulley should be facing down. That’s where I made the coat hanger tool to adjust the pulley. I just made sure the belt seemed fairly tight & couldn’t be slipped off by hand at the top CAM sprocket.
Thanks very much for making this video. I’m about to start this job tomorrow and after seeing this it will really help with the flow of things.
Thanks!
Stop at frame 26 of video part 2 here. You should be able to see the check pug diagram. again, it is a threaded bolt that you need to remove, Hope this helps.
The plug is actually a threaded bolt.I think maybe a 13mm so you don’t use a screwdriver to take it out. Shouldn’t be any bracket to remove. It’s just behind the exhaust manifold on the cylinder block. Use a small 3-inch screw driver later once the bolt is removed to see if it hits the balance shaft or goes in 2 inches or more and clears the obstruction. If it goes in 2″ or more and the oil pump sprocket locks when you turn it, then balance shaft it hitting the screw driver which is correct.