Mitsubishi MSZ-GL15NA-U1Mini Split Install Part 1

Mitsubishi MSZ-GL15NA-U1Mini Split Install Part 1

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Howard Emerson says:

My HVAC guy is going to do the pipe & line hookups on my system, and my electrician will do the breaker panel, but I'm doing the grunt work. The outdoor unit was easy to mount to my concrete foundation, and I'll add a detachable 'roof' to keep snow to a minimum. Watching Ralph is extremely helpful, especially regarding where he centers the 3" diameter hole. In my situation with a sheetrock & stud wall, there's an issue with Mitsubishi's wall plate: If you hang the center holes on a stud, you're most likely going to have an issue with the 3" hole if you follow their directions. Common sense rules, thank you, Ralph!

Kelly Anderson says:

Hey Ralf great video yet again!.. Long time listener, first time caller! Was wondering what your experience has been with Mitsubishi mini split heat pumps in colder climates? I'm in mid Wisconsin near Lacrosse. I'm a big fan of Mitsubishi mini split but haven't had ton of experience with the heat pumps. I'm aware from several years back that you could only get heating out of them down to 20 deg f. But recently I've seen some newer Mitsubishi heat pumps that claim to deliver 100% rated btu down to 5 deg f before the btu amount degrades. I'm putting one of these units in a small (12×24) home addition but I have supplemental heat from the existing furnace. But curious what the actual performance will be. I'd like to continue using them.. have another project (appox 15×18 rec room attached to a garage) that needs cooling and they hoped could cover heating as well. But I know I can't entirely rely on the heat pump for heating and so they will still need supplemental heat source.

But just curious what your finding for cold weather performance out of these! Here near Lacrosse it's common to have temps below 0 def f. But probably not sustained that low for more that day or two… But I'd say 5-15 most the winter over nights.

Thanks for any feedback! Keep up the great video!

john spinosa says:

I did wind up sweating the evap. lines Didn't want to get a leak after installation a few years down the road.

undaya says:

Nice job. How much for unit? Could I use some other condenser with that wall unit? Mitsubishi looks hard to work on. Everything is crammed into a small space. Also if it were my house I wouldn't use particle board in area of a penetration. And I would paint area of penetration with some protective enamel.

Knight Hvac says:

I ran the holesaw backwards to cut thru the plastic siding less damage that way.

JustAnAcre says:

At 8:04, I see you cut the 12 gauge wire. Could have avoided it looking up.

BodhisattvaIdeal says:

Any take on using sta brite 8 for swage connections?

john spinosa says:

If you want to use the flare nut try this sealant instead of hasselig brazing. it's on Amazon 5 stars.

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Lester Hersh says:

when you .put all the line set and electrical out like you are doing the way the manufacturer wants it.

Josh LaFrance says:

Does the line set have to come out the back? Could it come out the cutouts on the left side and then be routed down the surface of the wall? I ask because I'm planning a garage install to put the head where I want it, the lines can't come out the back.

brnmcc01 says:

I also installed one of these Mitsubishi hyperheat heat pump systems. Three zones for a log home. I used one 15 like the one shown in the video, plus 2 6's for master bedroom and full bath. I also connected the wire like you did, I don't like unnecessary connections or splices so I just ran the wire outside to the outdoor unit. The hardest part was feeding the lineset and wiring thru the wall. I ended up boring 2 1.5" holes thru the log, one hole for lineset, and the other for drain/electrical. Was pretty tight fit, but 1.5" is the biggest my drill can handle boring thru a little over 8" of tulip poplar wood. The owners love the system, that condenser is so quiet it makes almost zero noise, and barely made a difference in their electrical bill. They have two airtight wood stoves for backup heat, and they wanted central air, so this was the best system for the application.

jimbola77 says:

dang I wish I had your knowledge ralph someday very professional work!!!!

jimbola77 says:

excellent job as alway's!!!!

JonesHvac says:

Very good and clean install, thanks for the tips. You can tell you have put a few in

Rob Brown says:

You ever use the Fujitsu's ?? I really like them …

Seth Stritsman says:

Is this your favorite brand of Mini Split? My Company pushes Daikin but I took a class on Fujitsu and so far they seem to go through less boards.

TCB Mechanical says:

Great Vid , Newbie in hvac , learning from the pro's .

NETWizzJbirk says:

Excellent, Ralph. I am going to install one of these systems in my 2-car garage! That said, I first am going to remove some drywall and get an electrician to run my 240v… then patch that up.

Michael Petrella says:

Great video. Could you show us how to remove that indoor unit from wall if need be ? I was told it helps to use a siding tool.

Chill Refrigeration,Heating & Air Conditioning LLC says:

Good video as always Ralph.

JH HVAC & Plumbing says:

Looks like u done this a few times , thanks for all the tips , I'm bout to watch 2nd part

HVAC in SC says:

Great work Ralph!

Alan Johnston says:

can they be installed on camper trailers? does it run on 110 or 220

Harry Dickson says:

Nice work Ralph looking forward to part 2

tecnico says:

i like to leave the line set that comes from outside in the left side of the inside unit and connect just behind of it. so when you need go wash or replace it you dont have to disturb the whole line set.

ComfortPlus Heating and Cooling says:

Looks great Ralph! Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to part 2!

Nate Hicks says:

Smooth, great job! I like the tip of how you laid out your mark for your hole, have you install other brands and if so does that tip work for those as well?

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