How to Install a Ductless Heat Pump | Ask This Old House

How to Install a Ductless Heat Pump | Ask This Old House

This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey and host Kevin O’Connor install a ductless heat pump to heat and cool a room.

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Richard and Kevin installed a Mr. Slim ductless heat pump, model number MUZ-FE18NA, that provides 18,000 BTU/hour of cooling. It is manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric [https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/].

Steps for How to Install a Ductless Heat Pump:
1. Calculate the heat and cooling load of the space, then order the appropriate size heat pump.
2. Mount the bracket for the indoor air handler to the room wall.[BR]
3. Use a hole saw to bore a 2 5/8-inch-diameter hole through the exterior wall.
4. Insert the plastic sleeve through the hole in the wall.
5. Attach plastic conduit to the outside of the house to conceal the refrigerant lines and electrical cable.
6. Attach the metal bracket to exterior of the house for mounting the condenser unit.
7. Run an electrical cable from outside through the wall and into the room. Connect the cable to the air handler.
8. Lift the air handler up to its mounting bracket, and feed the refrigerant lines and cable through the sleeve to the outdoors.
9. Hook the air handler onto its wall-mounted bracket and secure with screws.
10. From outside, connect copper tubing to the two refrigerant lines.
11. Run the refrigerant lines and electrical cable through the plastic conduit and down to the metal bracket installed in Step 6.
12. Snap the cover onto the conduit to conceal all the lines and cable.
13. Use a tubing bender to bend the copper refrigerant lines, as needed, to reach the condenser’s mounting bracket.
14 Have an electrician run a new circuit from the main electrical panel to the outside of the house right beside the condenser.
15 Connect the electrical cable to the condenser.
16 Bolt the condenser to its mounting bracket.
17 Connect the refrigerant lines to the condenser.
18 Use a remote control or wireless clock thermostat to operate the air handler, which will provide cool air in summer, and heat in the winter.

Expert design and installation of this system was provided by NETR, Inc. [https://www.netrinc.com/]

About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we’re ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O’Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.

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How to Install a Ductless Heat Pump | Ask This Old House
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Comments

Anthony Lange says:

Did they carry that condenser all the way up to that loft??

Adam Poirier says:

I like how they carry that compressor unit up and down a flight of stairs for video purposes lol

InHocSigno says:

How does the Receiver in the attic communicate with the Indoor air handler coil device? Blue tooth? Hard wired ?

Brian Medeiros says:

Manufacturer says that the back of the unit Hass to be at least 12 inches from the house. But the bracket doesn’t allow for such a clearance, only 8”.

C says:

Do they have or install these in Germany?

Dale Kronk says:

Great until time to clean the back side of the coil

Josh McWright says:

Works so well Fastly.Cool that it only requires daytime operation until high temp and humidity are overnight. It is difficult to get to side filters, but back is easily accessible.

Headwaters says:

WAIT A MINUTE! You skipped how the system gets charged…… Do you have to add refrigerant? Does the system come with that? Does a licensed person need to do this work? Without refrigerant the system is worthless.

Eryushidēta says:

as low as 5 degrees outside can heat a room huh…. So how does it work exactly cause where I live in the winter, it can average -2 to 3 degrees on cold nights. Where is the "Heat" coming from if the outside is still colder than the inside of my house without the heat on?

ZuffaLtdDanaWhite says:

Less features on that Honeywell 6000 stat than the remote control .

Nolan says:

Hack job, should be at least 12 inches down from the ceiling for air intake.

SixSentSoldiers says:

This Old House kills Bob Villa. Love yous Guys.

Joseph says:

Hi everyone. I have a question about my heat pump. I have installed the heat pump and ready to wire in the 220v power and I am a little confused. The unit is a 220v but the electric indicates L and N and a ground. I am used to seeing L1 and L2 for (hot line 1) and (hot line 2) for 220v. Is L and N another way to describe the 2 hots. Thank you to anyone who can clear this up for me.

Bmendonc says:

Hey, the thermostat isn't making the system respond, where's the transceiver? In the attic…

Negative 13 says:

They carried the outdoor unit upstairs and then back down again. Lol

Matthew Campbell says:

You guys skip the most important parts!.

Bruce Laden says:

will a ductless heat pump work for a old brick house with no insulation in the walls in zone 7. It currently has a boiler with hot water and radiators. i have access to the joists under the floors.I am thinking pex under floors would be a better option. A local hvac guy said heat pump and mini heads?

lunzie01 says:

Yeah, except the Mitsubishi website doesn't have any prices anywhere. Totally annoying!!

Alex Adams says:

Can you hear/feel sound and vibrations from these Mitsubishi mini split condensers, when hung on the outside wall like this?

Uptalk1 says:

How do you use this system with a multiple story house?

Ozzie Alarcon says:

Why did they carry the heat pump upstairs inside only to have to carry it back downstairs to install it outside????? lol

Abe T. says:

Mini splits are awesome but this one is installed incorrectly, as it is mounted way to close to the ceiling, blocking airflow. Fail.

Chris Maki says:

I liked most of the content of this video, but they completely skipped over the refrigerant requirements, I'd like to know what's involved after flaring and connecting the copper lines.

Jeff in TD says:

Would have been nice if you’d have shown how to pressure test, vacuum, and charge the system.

Ryan Roberts says:

Inverters do not "find heat". Not even remotely how that works.

Mark Chidester says:

Nice, sure wish it was that easy.
I love how these shows skip the difficult and problem parts.

Veni Vidi Vici says:

Sponsored by Mitsubishi

Andres Valdes says:

Is not the inside unit supposed to be at least 10 inches from ceiling? (I am just reading/watching all I can before my unit arrives for my diy installation)

Yeager McBipper says:

Just gloss right over the vacuum down, leak test, R412a charging.. all that adds about $600. This is NOT a DIY lineset. This needs a certified AC dude to charge the systems to the correct pressure. Also that indoor head unit is WAY to close to the ceiling. You need min 10 inches (that's what she said)

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