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I have a 2003 eclipse, the fan seems to work, it blows low, med, and high…. but there isnt any hot or cold air when i switch to either AC or heater. basically whatever the temperature is outside, thats what the fan blows into the car when i turn on the AC and heater. Any thoughts?
Just got the motor replaced.I found one on Ebay for 104$ shipped.There are used options, but that may be ill advised considering how sketchy the motor is). Pretty easy, except getting the airbag unit out. What a bitch. Lost one of the mounting screws =( One thing I will say is that it is pretty hard without a short phillips screwdriver. As long as I can get it all back together properly tomorrow, I will be in good shape! Thank you!!
you know your stuff, thanks
Thanx bro u r the best
Nice video .. Gave me an idea for this problem .. Instead of paying out $150.oo for a stupid idea part which will malfunction again – I used zip-ties and pulled the control valve lever back in the open position so my heater core will always get hot and can never return to the stuck closed position .. My heater is blowing hot again and it cost me a small amount of my labor ..
Great video. Thanks.
I have the exact opposite problem. I can’t turn the heat off. Would that be the same problem, the valve motor? Video is great. Answered all my questions and very helpful ripping the dash apart !! Do some dampers open and close as the hot/cold control is turned? Could that be the problem? Thanks you
Rich
My aunt has an ’02 Galant and she’s having this exact problem with the heat. The antifreeze level is perfect in the rad and coolant bottle, so I guess it’s time to tear the dash and HVAC apart…
Great video! Thanks!!
er thanks!!
Awesome man thank!!
I have a eclipse 2001 and I only get hot air in the passenger side in winter and cold on driver side can u help me
Thanks a million bud. I can have heat tomorrow. Damn Mitsubishi all i can say
Make sure you’re not low on antifreeze at the radiator cap when the car is cool and has been sitting. ; )
I have a 2003 mitsubishi galant and I had that part replace and still nothing. cold air only
No, I live in Utah and noticed that the car you were working on had Utah Plates. I also need the Heater Switch replaced and was wondering if you also work on cars.
Is this A.J.? A.J. The computer exorcist?
Do you have a repair shop where someone can bring their car into you to get it fixed?
Welcome Jeff!
Sorry t hit enter before I finished. I did this and it saved me a lot of money! Can’t thank you enough!,,
Thanks for making this video. I have no mechanical auto background and you gave me the confidence to do this. I dod
very valuable information
What do u think would work to make that manual? I’ve been switchin it on/off for my wife when the seasons change… I’m becoming a pro at taking a galant dash apart
Awesome video Brian! I plan to take on this repair myself very soon on my fiance’s car. I’m eager to tackle it head on with this video as a “how to” instrument. Thanks!
I didn’t mention in my previous post a minute ago, that no panels were removed to do this, except taking out the glove box. Tools required: long flat wide screwdriver, large wire cutters (for cutting the plastic in the upper left corner of the glove enclosure), and strong hands. And it will be easy to manually move the valve back (closed) when cold AC is required.) Thanks for a great video. BTW, your Galant looks like an ’01 with the colored Mitsu emblem on the trunk lid.
This video was very helpful. I especially liked where you got a closeup of the motor and where it is located. Using your video I was able to develop an even easier approach to fixing the stuck valve. I noticed that the left side of the glove enclosure (with the glove box removed) has a large opening. After cutting out part of the plastic frame, I was able to push the metal lever out of the plastic arm with a long screwdriver, and then move the arm forward, opening the valve. Result: HEAT!
I have a 2003 Mit Spyder Eclipse. We purchased it new and the heater has always worked crappy. Blows cold air while idling, then when accelerating the heater blows warm. at the next stoplight, it blows cold again…the dealership looked at it and said it was a thermostat that was “sticking” they changed the thermostat and it still does the same problem. do you think it is this valve that you show in this video? or a different problem? I don’t have the nerve to take apart the dash as you do:)
Wow. That Capslock rage has much the same effect as yelling. Feel better?
THIS IS THE WORST CAR I EVER HAD, NNO ONE KNOWS WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT,EVEN STUPID MITSUBISHI SERVICE SIGNED DIAGNOSTICS ON IT 2 TIMES,AND STILL NOT RUNNING, NEW BATTERY,NEW ALTERNATOR (4TH ONE ) ORIGINAL PARTS AND NO POWER IN MY CAR,NOW THEY TELLING MI IT IS A ALTERNATOR RELAY,WHERE IS THAT STUPID ALTERNATOR RELAY BOX LOCATED ON THIS CAR??? PLEASE HELP,U R RIGHT ,I SHOULD GET HONDA OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. CAN U HELP ME?
Sounds like your heater core is leaking. Low coolant in the heater core (cooling system in general) will cause that sloshing sound.
My Galant makes the clicking noise so my valve is of course bad but it also leaks fluid into the front passenger side floorboard and the radio has shorted out. Can you please tell me if this also is because of the failed valve or is it because the heater core is leaking. When I take the glove box out and the black panel under the glove box off it doesn’t flow continuously it seems if its just condensation building up then dripping. But when u take a left turn you can hear water sloshing around?
what can i do to make my cars hearter core stop leaking antifreeze!!!!1
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No. This is a liquid control valve that blocks antifreeze. The temp blend door blocks air flow between the heater core and the evaporator.
is this part also know as a temperature blend door? great video btw
Thanks Rich- you’re welcome!
Okay thanks. Would this be the sensor located in the air duct passed the air filter? …..just for me to have an idea that i’m heading in the right direction. Thanks again
Most of the time that’s a faulty ambient air temperature sensor.