..cont’d from..indicator around it ..anywhere you think coffee got into..the electrical contact cleaner will hopefully dissolve the coffee that is creating a bridge or short on the circuit board..it dries and leaves no residue behind and will be safe on the circuit board..just be sure the battery is unhooked till it evaporates fully ,and give the cleaner a few hours to evaporate..also remove the console window switch panel so it’s not in the way..
you will need to remove the shifter mechanism and pull the whole thing apart to get to the circuit board under the W/S switch..it can only be gotten to by pulling the whole thing apart..You could try something else that I don’t think could do any more harm..unplug the negative battery cable since you will want to reset the code for the transmission limp mode that it is in..with battery unhooked spray aerosol electrical contact cleaner down into where the W/S switch and the gear ..cont’d….
Hello, I have one of these and my wife spilled coffee on the thing a few weeks ago and now it wont shift out of first gear, where do I clean the contacts with alcohol at? what part do I have to take off? thank you
w202 guru man, been at it for weeks now,,finally i think got too my problem… why i am in limp mode .. i have moved the gear shaft to a unknown position, soo when i replace gear shifter which is in park position the star reading comes with ” shifter in z posistion” how can i move the main transmission to D position,, how do i find out what position it is in??? please help
Hi can you help I have just watched your vid My issue is that I have just had one fitted not repared to my Mercedes clk2001 w208 which looks almost the same as the one in your vid. They charged me one hour and a half fitting Time. I need a second opinion on the time it took to do this job do you think 1 and a half hour is a fair time to do the job please get back to me as I think he’s ripping me off Tommy England Liverpool
yes silicone based…it was either Permatex or Loctite….sounds like you have a bushing in the linkage that links up to the transmission beginning to wear out..that is what generally keeps the transmission from going into park..small round plastic bushing that snaps into the large hole on the bottom of the shifter mechanism,then the connector rod to the transmission goes into the bushing and is retained with a c type clip
Hello, what kind of dielectric greese are you using? Is it silicone – based? I have a small shifter problem in my Jeep Grand Cherokee WG (export verison with mercedes diesel and 722.6). Sometimes it wont pass R and go to P, I have to try several times. I know this could be a plastic locker and I wont to lube it.
before you try adjusting the shifter check the bushing on tthe end of the shifter mechanism where it attaches to the shift rod…if the bushing is good…put the tranny in drive “D” and have someone hold it there…from underneath you will see a small locknut on the bottom of the rod(that goes to tranny) the shifter mechanism attaches to..loosen the locknut and push the rod that attaches to the tranny all the way rearward (shifter still being held by helper) the re tighten the locknut
Yes that helped. I used BASTER, to brake it lose, then WD 40. will buy the grease tomorrow. Question. How do you adjust the park neutral switch? I have to put the shifter between park and reverse to get the backup lights to come on.
And do you know why the instrument cluster dose not work sometimes? More not than dose. Thinking interface?
if it sucks air while the engine is running it’s a vacuum line…if you seafoam it through a vacuum line be very careful and only drip it in…you can easily hydraulic lock the engine if you pour quickly..
where is my vacuum line? i think i found it. a tube that is coming out of the silver container (brake booster maybe?) and it runs back down to the lower throttle body. rather hard to pull out, i got it but just wanting to make sure this is my vacuum line
seafoaming is a good idea…for the crankcase I usually add about 1/4 bottle to the oil and let the car idle for 10 minutes prior to changing the oil/filter..the best way to keep the engine clean is to use a diesel grade engine oil(15/40 20-50 in summer)..lots of detergents in diesel oil..the seafoam works good as well but I don’t like to drive with it in the engine..just as a flush before the oil change…1/2 bottle in the gas tank and a tiny bit in the throttle body should be fine
it’s possible the brake fluid has been changed..you can check it by looking at the reservoir bottle..if the fluid is nice and clean and nearly clear…it’s prob. been changed..if it’s dirty it will need changing…I’ll be doing a video on that in the next few weeks when time allows…not too tough
def. change the coolant..the trans. is supposedly sealed for life and not meant to be serviced..I am going to be changing mine and will do a video of the procedure..it’s a bit different method than most cars and requires temperature related filling and a special dipstick (the car has no dipstick from the factory….
And ya, im driving a ’98 C230 in case u were curious. got 208k mi. on her. Just want to keep her going 🙂 My uncle works for MB and said i should prolly change the coolant and brake fluids. prolly a good idea since i dont know wen it was last done? and should the tranny oil be changed/filled or anything??
Awesome! I’ll let you know sooner than later, but ill prolly take it. A lil while back i took off the throttle body, cleaned best i could and seafoamed it. About to seafoam vacuum line, fuel tank, and crank case. Im figuring just get it all clean as possible…bad idea to do all at same time or should i be ok? I changed the oil (first thing i tought myself how do on this baby) and immed. it was pretty dirty, so thinking a seafoaming is really good idea lol
Actually got it! Just had to force out down! However, It doesn’t doesn’t like to stay in 3 lol kiiina hard to get back into D, prolly just needs more lube 🙂 buuuut I think I still want to but yours! ,
What all are you going to do to that mercedes you done more to it in the past few weeks then I have ever did into the festiva but at least with my Festiva I know its fuel pump is shot
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..cont’d from..indicator around it ..anywhere you think coffee got into..the electrical contact cleaner will hopefully dissolve the coffee that is creating a bridge or short on the circuit board..it dries and leaves no residue behind and will be safe on the circuit board..just be sure the battery is unhooked till it evaporates fully ,and give the cleaner a few hours to evaporate..also remove the console window switch panel so it’s not in the way..
you will need to remove the shifter mechanism and pull the whole thing apart to get to the circuit board under the W/S switch..it can only be gotten to by pulling the whole thing apart..You could try something else that I don’t think could do any more harm..unplug the negative battery cable since you will want to reset the code for the transmission limp mode that it is in..with battery unhooked spray aerosol electrical contact cleaner down into where the W/S switch and the gear ..cont’d….
Hello, I have one of these and my wife spilled coffee on the thing a few weeks ago and now it wont shift out of first gear, where do I clean the contacts with alcohol at? what part do I have to take off? thank you
w202 guru man, been at it for weeks now,,finally i think got too my problem… why i am in limp mode .. i have moved the gear shaft to a unknown position, soo when i replace gear shifter which is in park position the star reading comes with ” shifter in z posistion” how can i move the main transmission to D position,, how do i find out what position it is in??? please help
exactly the reason I’m showing on these 2 videos..the shaft is stuck from not being put into lower gears for so long
mine doesn’t want to go from D to 4 and 3,2,1 Do you know why ??
Thanks for your help…..
Hi can you help I have just watched your vid My issue is that I have just had one fitted not repared to my Mercedes clk2001 w208 which looks almost the same as the one in your vid. They charged me one hour and a half fitting Time. I need a second opinion on the time it took to do this job do you think 1 and a half hour is a fair time to do the job please get back to me as I think he’s ripping me off Tommy England Liverpool
yes silicone based…it was either Permatex or Loctite….sounds like you have a bushing in the linkage that links up to the transmission beginning to wear out..that is what generally keeps the transmission from going into park..small round plastic bushing that snaps into the large hole on the bottom of the shifter mechanism,then the connector rod to the transmission goes into the bushing and is retained with a c type clip
Hello, what kind of dielectric greese are you using? Is it silicone – based? I have a small shifter problem in my Jeep Grand Cherokee WG (export verison with mercedes diesel and 722.6). Sometimes it wont pass R and go to P, I have to try several times. I know this could be a plastic locker and I wont to lube it.
cluster could simply be a ground or loose electrical connector
before you try adjusting the shifter check the bushing on tthe end of the shifter mechanism where it attaches to the shift rod…if the bushing is good…put the tranny in drive “D” and have someone hold it there…from underneath you will see a small locknut on the bottom of the rod(that goes to tranny) the shifter mechanism attaches to..loosen the locknut and push the rod that attaches to the tranny all the way rearward (shifter still being held by helper) the re tighten the locknut
Yes that helped. I used BASTER, to brake it lose, then WD 40. will buy the grease tomorrow. Question. How do you adjust the park neutral switch? I have to put the shifter between park and reverse to get the backup lights to come on.
And do you know why the instrument cluster dose not work sometimes? More not than dose. Thinking interface?
if it sucks air while the engine is running it’s a vacuum line…if you seafoam it through a vacuum line be very careful and only drip it in…you can easily hydraulic lock the engine if you pour quickly..
where is my vacuum line? i think i found it. a tube that is coming out of the silver container (brake booster maybe?) and it runs back down to the lower throttle body. rather hard to pull out, i got it but just wanting to make sure this is my vacuum line
seafoaming is a good idea…for the crankcase I usually add about 1/4 bottle to the oil and let the car idle for 10 minutes prior to changing the oil/filter..the best way to keep the engine clean is to use a diesel grade engine oil(15/40 20-50 in summer)..lots of detergents in diesel oil..the seafoam works good as well but I don’t like to drive with it in the engine..just as a flush before the oil change…1/2 bottle in the gas tank and a tiny bit in the throttle body should be fine
it’s possible the brake fluid has been changed..you can check it by looking at the reservoir bottle..if the fluid is nice and clean and nearly clear…it’s prob. been changed..if it’s dirty it will need changing…I’ll be doing a video on that in the next few weeks when time allows…not too tough
def. change the coolant..the trans. is supposedly sealed for life and not meant to be serviced..I am going to be changing mine and will do a video of the procedure..it’s a bit different method than most cars and requires temperature related filling and a special dipstick (the car has no dipstick from the factory….
And ya, im driving a ’98 C230 in case u were curious. got 208k mi. on her. Just want to keep her going 🙂 My uncle works for MB and said i should prolly change the coolant and brake fluids. prolly a good idea since i dont know wen it was last done? and should the tranny oil be changed/filled or anything??
Awesome! I’ll let you know sooner than later, but ill prolly take it. A lil while back i took off the throttle body, cleaned best i could and seafoamed it. About to seafoam vacuum line, fuel tank, and crank case. Im figuring just get it all clean as possible…bad idea to do all at same time or should i be ok? I changed the oil (first thing i tought myself how do on this baby) and immed. it was pretty dirty, so thinking a seafoaming is really good idea lol
I’ll hold on to it until you’re sure.. just let me know It’ll be here in case you need it
Actually got it! Just had to force out down! However, It doesn’t doesn’t like to stay in 3 lol kiiina hard to get back into D, prolly just needs more lube 🙂 buuuut I think I still want to but yours! ,
hmm won’t go to 3..sounds like the spring loaded ball on the detent for 4 3 2 1 is stuck from non use
a very help full video again. thank you
got it into 4! …but wont go to 3 🙁 smh
If i cant get mine going i will totally buy that from you!!! You rock 🙂
Lol yeah lots of work done…mostly very minor stuff.. I like to fix things before they break…it’s a sickness disguised as a hobby 🙂
What all are you going to do to that mercedes you done more to it in the past few weeks then I have ever did into the festiva but at least with my Festiva I know its fuel pump is shot