How to change front and rear brakes W203 Mercedes Benz C230 and C-Class

How to change front and rear brakes W203 Mercedes Benz C230 and C-Class

How to replace brake pads and rotors on a Mercedes Benz C-Class 2001-2007

W203 and many other Mercedes Benz are similar

We will replace front and rear pads and rotors with OEM Mercedes Parts. My car has the sport package which requires different parts, so be sure to use your VIN when ordering parts so they are correct. My c230 has just 1 wear sensor, located front right side.

Front :25
Rear 2:45

Parts —-
$445 pads/rotors/wear sensor (all MB official oem parts)

18MM hex socket
16MM hex socket
T30 torx bit
Pin punch (1/8″ or up to 5MM)
Bungee cord or rope
Flat head screwdriver

About 1 hour per axle

Difficulty —-



toosweet241 says:


Push Wijegunawardena says:

Great video! I was able to follow your steps exactly and save $600+. Can't thank you enough for doing this for the rest of us who has 10+ year old cars and don't want to let Mercedes stealership take our hard earned money and rip us off. However, your video shows the happy path and I want to share my experience with the not so happy obstacles I ran in to while doing this. I hope it will help some one out there.

1. I could not get the rotor holding screw on the passenger side out and I stripped the threads in the process. I tried several methods, hit the rotor with a hammer to break the rust free, sprayed WD40 on it, tried hitting the holding screw with a impact wrench, tried drilling a hole and then using a screw extractor kit (ez out) and none of those worked. Needless to say, I was extremely frustrated!! What worked? I bought a 1/4-inch titanium drill bit from Home Depot and drilled it out. The screw head will break off easily. Just make sure you drill straight in to the middle of the screw and lubricate with WD40 every 30 seconds or so. Once it breaks off, the rotor will come out leaving the rest of the screw in the wheel hub. Don't worry, you don't need to take it out or replace it. That thing is useless and the only reason it's there is to help production line in the factory during assembly. To prevent it from falling off since the wheel is not on to keep it in place with the lug nuts.

2. When I was trying to push the new brake pads in, they wouldn't fit. First, I thought I got the wrong type of pads. Then I remembered him saying that you may have to push the pistons on the caliper in. I didn't know what that meant so I searched and found a video on YouTube. Basically, you use a C-clamp to push it in flush. But as I was pushing one side I noticed the other side was coming out. They are connected and cannot be independently pushed in. So, when you have room for the pad to slide in on one side the other side will be too narrow. What worked? This was a bit tricky and I needed my wife's help. Once I pushed the piston on the inside (right hand side when facing forward) in, I bolted on the caliper and pushed the inside brake pad in. And then I unscrewed the two bolts that hold the caliper but instead of taking it out entirely and hanging it, I just pulled it out a bit (horizontally). Make sure the brake pad on the inside is still wedged between the brake rotor and the inside piston. And while my wife was holding on to the caliper and supporting it, I clamped the outside piston in. The reason you have to pull it a bit is because you need room for the C-Clamp to go in grab the surface on the piston. And this time the inside piston won't be able to come out as you push the outside in because of the brake pad being wedged between it and the rotor.

Things didn't go smoothly for me but in the end once I finished the job I felt relieved and proud of myself. I am by no means a mechanic or work on cars on a regular basis. I am a change oil and change spark plugs sort of DIY guy, so this was a big accomplishment for me. Thanks again.

Refik Gara says:

I have a 2005 Mercedes Benz c230K sport Package, I just want to know which brake pads do I need there so many different once but I want the right one, please if you could send me the link and the number of the brake pads that you got so I can match it with, please let me know
Thank You

Carlos Poveda says:


Carlos Poveda says:

Excellent video tutorial! My girlfriend that doesnt like watching car videos was entertained! Thank you so much mugs132

Steve Smith says:

Well done man! Good video quality, editing, vocals and tempo

Gregory Collins says:

Great vid buddy. Thanks.

rexdual says:

Fancy look but simple is like that. Love my w203 🙂

Mike Hausner says:

Is it true that one HAS to change the rotors when one replaces the brake pads$??

Bryan Henry says:

Rear disc you should of Change brake shoes?

Bryan Henry says:

One mistake no grease?

jeevan reddy says:

is it common for these mercs to complain about break with 50% of life left on the pads? I bought the breakpads only to findout that 50% of life left on the front breakpads. thanks to they gave me both front and rear breakpads set for 15$

Gorilla UMP says:

You just saved me $250! I could probably this with my eyes closed!!

S SMITH says:

Great video, man. It really helped me out.

Matthew Martinez says:

Great video!!

Tony Aragon says:

I did everything until the torquing process of the rear caliper bolts. The rear are not 80 ftlb as informed in your video, I believe they are 40 ftlb since not only did I strip my threads, the rear bolts are much weaker than the front bolts. Be aware and verify the correct torquing to the bolts!!!!

Eriberto Panerio says:

Thanks a lot for sharing…

王嘉政 says:

HI. Is the disc 330mmX28mm?

Paulos Life says:

If you only need to change the rear pads, do you need to undo the caliper? Or do you only need to undo the retaining pins and slide the new pads in? Thank you.

ClesusChrist says:

I noticed you didn't use any break grease, is this somehow not required on a Mercedes??

Otto Doktor says:

What was wrong with the old rotors? They looked still good to me.

Yolanda Norman says:

Wow! Can you come do my brakes? LOL!!!

Mohammed Azam says:

My rear pins have seized, I've tapped with a hammer all over and soaked in plenty of wd40, what options do I have now?

Joe Westerdale says:

Most brake rotors ship with a petroleum based coating on them to keep them from rusting. It is a good idea to use Brake Kleen to remove this coating prior to installation. Otherwise, you will contaminate your new brake pads and they may become glazed.

Andre Taylor says:

Nice tutorial, saved me $880 on my 2005 C55 AMG, I bought my own rotors and pads and dealership still wants to charge $440 to change front and $440 for back…………

Comments are disabled for this post.