Part 19: Front Inner Fender Removal, POR-15, Rear Sill Repair – My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration

Part 19: Front Inner Fender Removal, POR-15, Rear Sill Repair – My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration

Part 19 of my ’76 RX-5 Cosmo restoration continues with sheet metal repairs, but hopefully in a less boring format. First off I totally remove the rotted out…

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Jean-yves CREPIAT says:

This is great! Restore Cosmio so patiently, it is not given to everyone!
It’s great to see you working with expertise, you take time to explain what
you do, it’s really a good job! I’m happy to see you sharing experience !
Currently, I am trying to restore an FD RX-7 (F3DS) with the Wankel engine.
Just a small clarification I wish to say: Save your money ! Many parts are
very expensive. I’m French and these pieces are poor in Europe, I have to
import quasi all of these, from Japan.

Elgonidas says:

Great sheet metal footage editing Aaron!

DarkPrince013 says:

Yes! I have watched all of your vids. I am planning to do away with all the
rust on my 83 F150 and bring it back to factory new condition. Your vids
are an inspiration and motivates me to get off my ps3 and fix my truck in
my free time. thanx

DarkPrince013 says:

This is just an idea. I’m set on the civic. Just not sure what engine. I’m
able to put any 4 or 6 in it or rotary if possible

Jx1x3 says:

part 20 will be uploaded on feb-1-2012…can’t wait! keep up the good work!!

aaroncake says:

The FSM actually has pretty good instructions for rebuilding the
transmission (assuming we are talking about RX-7) but you will need some
special tools to do so. Synco replacement requires a special deep socket
and a press, off the top of my head. FC NA 2nd gear syncros are notorious
for failure. You can order FC transmission rebuild kits from several online
sources fairly cheaply. Check the forums for sources. Be aware that Mazda
made minor changes to the internals several times.

aaroncake says:

I’ve tried several different kinds and they are all fairly bad, so don’t
worry. 🙂 Now I just grind away a small spot where I’m going to weld.
Currently I’m using “Dominion Sure Seal High Build Zinc Rich Weld Through
Primer” which actually does seem to weld through OK, but tends to burn
around the weld.

karlakatie1522 says:

Sorry, I discovered rust inside the shock tower, and it appears to be more
then surface rust, the best I could do at the time is wire brush what I
could reach ,and spray some rust converter, and put the new shock in, damn
it! If I didn’t need my car for work the next day I would have don’t a
better job , like getting some of that Por 15 , talk about a depressing
feeling to know the car your love so much has cancer, I only wish I had the
time, and the welding skills you have to save her. Love y

turbos4fc3s says:

keep up the good work. I’m looking forward to part 20 🙂

rd95stang says:

project is looking good man, rock on

aaroncake says:

@tsherwoodrzero Yep, made a mistake and didn’t change my template.

MrKlemensas says:

that’s what she said 😀

montyrx7 says:

arroncake what is the thickness of the repair panels that you are using to
replace the rusted panels?

aaroncake says:

@dondebest I have about 6 hours into that inner sill piece, from the
initial blasting, to all the new metal, to grinding down all the welds, and
finally the blasting before weld primer. I can’t see anywhere else on the
car where I will need to make as complicated a piece. The blasting will be
covered pretty well and I’ll get some good footage of the damage I know it
will reveal. I actually rather enjoy sand blasting. It’s very relaxing.

John J. Chism says:

Awesome! Thanks for the long awaited update.

Julzilla says:

some fantastic sheet metal repair jobs there Az! Its going to be an
absolute bitch recreating them front fender panels but….they look soooooo
bad, headaches ahoy!

aaroncake says:

@clothesonthefloor It’s actually quite pleasant to drive. I have a
reasonably quiet exhaust, it’s tuned well, and has a full interior
w/Dynamat and insulation. The only downside is the clutch is a bit grabby
and the fuel economy sucks. But in the summer I basically split my daily
driving between the Insight and the RX-7. The RX-7 is in the parking lot
outside my office right now. 🙂

aaroncake says:

Yep…I also have a set of Dremel bits about the size of a spot weld hole,
which is really handy when the panel is clamped in place. It clears the
weld primer from both the bottom flange and the rim around the hole.

karlakatie1522 says:

Hi Aaron, I was changing out my shocks on my 2004 toyota tundra, and to my
shock, and surprise, I discovered some freaking rust inside a

yerboogieman says:

I remember you saying something about remaking the inner fenders, but
better. If you can’t get them from Australia. You should remake them; I
want to see how you would make them better. Oh and we need a Tina burnout
video with the new LSD.

turbos4fc3s says:

good stuff. I did my rear suspension last winter, this year, installing
power FC and cleaning the engine bay/ polish manifolds install a fmic and
stuff like that. I just bought a new car so my hybrid turbo is gonna have
to wait till next year 🙁 I’ll get some vids on here soon 😉

aaroncake says:

@1SWEETRX7 It’s actually an S4 TII. Maybe I’ll see about putting some
footage of my RX-7 into the next video, but with snow on the ground here,
it’s time to put the RX-7 away for the winter.

caboseisstupid says:

I really, really enjoyed this series. This was a very cool rebuild.

tsherwoodrzero says:

Just a small goof I noticed is that you put “Part 18” in the title card at
the beginning of the video. Now you’re getting me motivated to finish my
20B FC…

myideasoffun says:

cant wait for part 20

FrankTheCat says:

@lebanonhouse35 tags also say ‘corrosion prenvention’ [sic]

Brandon Kammerer says:

Anyone else noticed the title screen says Part 18? Lol, still very good
episodes, keep em’ rollin’.

aaroncake says:

@CHIBA280CRV I’m feeling much better now, thanks. It sucks being sick for a
whole month. I’m using 1mm steel, so 19 or 20 gauge. I’m told 20 gauge is
standard on most Mazdas and my measurements confirm. Some areas of the car
are thicker so I always measure first. The frame rails and other structural
parts are closer to 14 gauge. I look forward to seeing your videos.

rana cherian says:

Hey Aaron, y r u wearing a womens watch when working on the damn car lol 😀

Smigjo says:

I envy your patience.

MrComaToes says:

You, good Sir, do damn fine work. I am floored by the effort you have
exerted in the sheet metal repairs to get it as close to original as
possible. If, in the future, someone ever uncovers your work and actually
realizes the extent of your repairs and your attention to detail, they will
surely salute your efforts, as do I.

aaroncake says:

@baggedandblown See nudity at 12:00. Also, another channel you probably
want to check out is “AutoRestoMod”. Their series has a bit more storey
than mine and they are working on a Mustang and a Camaro.

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