Factory procedure for detecting a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump in the 1993-2002 626/MX6. Video covers max pressure test and fuel pump inspection te…
Mazda 626 – Fuel Pump Inspection Test
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Hey djdevon… Justin L here from mx6.com…. Check out my posting! I didnt
check the psi of the old pump and i have dropped my tank…. Any questions
just pm me on the forums… Im currently waiting for it to arrive now. 😛
great videos man!
88-92 Models would have a test connector near the wiper motor. You’d jumper
two pins, turn the key on (not run), and it should engage the fuel pump. If
it does then do a fuel pressure test. If no then you’d have to look for 12v
at the fuel pump itself. You can find the exact procedure and diagrams on
PMX626 (dot) INFO. Look for the 1988 WSM on there, procedures are the same
for all 88-92 models in terms of fuel pump inspection.
Just watched your Fuel Pressure Hold Test video. I think I am now convinced
you do have a problem with the pump, but it’s always good to make sure your
gauge is reading right. There is still one more variable to consider,
although I would not expect it – the fuel pump itself has about a 4″ piece
of rubber hose that connects one part to another, and this hose is held on
with worm gear clamps. In the unlikely event one or both of those
connections broke a little loose, you could lose pressure.
I like that Schraeder valve T-fitting you had there, do you recall where
you got it, or better yet, have the part number?
I’ll do mine as well in the next couple days, you got me curious about what
my reading would be. I’m not going to do the max pressure test though, I
feel uneasy about purposely blocking off the fuel pump and having it
basically hit a brick wall when it’s trying to pump. (unless there is some
sort of relief valve on the pump to avoid damage).
Thank you. Recording things one-handed takes a bit of effort and a lot of
patience. It’s really fun so it all works out otherwise I wouldn’t do it.
Can I ask what kind of battery do you use how much cranking amps is needed
for you 626?
Hopefully the new fuel pump will fix your hard strat issue.
A lot of little factors such as running rich, rough idle, inability to
lower air adjust screw, inability to change base idle lower than 750 RPM.
When idle is at proper 750 RPM it seems as if the car is misfiring. Spark
is healthy so that led me in the direction of a fuel pressure test. On the
very first test I noticed low fuel pressure and just ran through all of the
tests I could until we arrived at this point.
My 98 Mazda 626 Lx 2.0 just outta no where lost power and runs like shit
now. No power. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, can sensor, and
cleaned the maf sensor. Still running like shit. Anyone know if the fuel
pump slowly going out causes this??
I’m new here. Why did you decide to start this series? Was your car running
rough?
It came with the Actron fuel pressure tester kit along with a handful of
other assorted valves. I show everything that the kit comes with in the
“Fuel Pressure Hold Test” video.
I’ve responded to your post over at MX6.com
What about a 89 model?
Yeah that’s something along the lines of what I’m expecting to find. No
idea when I’ll be able to source another pump. Will start looking tomorrow.
So it might be a little bit until I can replace it. Thanks for all of the
advice Amopower you’ve been very helpful through all of this.
Sounds more like a vacuum leak as they are known to rob power and cause a
lot of issues. You have to do some diagnostics to find the issue. Buying
parts in the hopes it will fix your issue will just lighten your wallet.
Sure a fuel pressure issue could be the cause but you have to test for
that. I’d take the car to a mechanic at this point it might actually save
you money in the long run to get it correctly diagnosed.
It sucks that your car does not have an access port in the back seat.
10:25..or 4 – your gauge is not reading correct. Once again to avoid a
painful fuel tank R&R, if you have another car handy that you can measure
its fuel pressure on, I would do that. (something easier that already has a
Schraeder valve on the fuel rail)…just to give you the warm and fuzzy
that your gauge is true.
Ah, didn’t even think about that. Will test the Saturn tomorrow. Great
idea. Thanks.