Walk through step.
Ball joint/Control arm replace,Mazda Mpv Lx 2000,driver side
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Hi, Nice video! Where did you get the LCA, and how much? I am thinking
about doing this job on 2003 MPV soon…
How long did it take for you to remove and replace the new control arm?
bougth it from clearyauto online and its still going strong
Yeah, I found a few on the internet, but I’m kinda reluctant to buy
discount parts for Mazda, had some bad stuff happen with my Protégé…
Kinda sucks to have to change everything, but if I’m going to end up paying
as much in garage time, might as well change the whole thing myself and
have it aligned afterwards. Thanks for the insight!
Spray it down with pb blaster or something.Use a good punch with a small
sledge hammer.If that don’t work thread the nut on back and hammer it out
like that.the bolt is tapered and rusted on.
Dear any1 watching this video, the ball joint is not welded in2 the control
arm, it is pressed in2 it with a hydraulic press.. I am a very amateur
mechanic and i was able 2 take it to a machine shop and use their press to
press it out and press in a new1. they only charged me 10 dollars and its
very easy.. take off the control arm, buy the ball joint for 35 dollars,
press out the old1, press in the new1, really easy..
I think the part its threaded to is damage, so its turning only i woulda
just cut that bolt.Good luck with it.
I think Portege is what we call Mazda 323F here in Europe, I am doing the
same job. I removed the arm, and it doesn’t look like it’s welded. I have
soaked the ball joint in Diesel, will try removing it in the morning.
The control arm i bought was a dorman brand.
hi.. the new control arm how it work for you? if good do you hav the Tel#
or info for the place u get the C-arm..?? i bouhgt 1 b4 from a company, but
was not good,, balljoin go bad to quick…
Thanks for walk through, very helpful, do have a question though. You
mentioned that you loosen the nut and then use a hammer and punch to knock
out the bolt that hold the ball joint to knuckle. I loosened the nut but
the bolt will not come out. Did you have difficulty getting it out? Is it
threaded into the knuckle part? What size hammer did you use? Any
suggestions for helping me get this stuck bolt out so I can finish this
project? Thank you!
Thanks. I have been spraying it down with pb and also tried heating but
still wouldn’t budge. Finally got around to picking up a impact gun for my
compressor and what I did was use that on the bolt head and it loosened the
bolt so it could spin and break the rust up, then I was able to use hammer
and punch on the other side to push it out. Victory! Thanks again for your
help and this walk through video. Really helped me tackle this job!
If its not coming out maybe there is a nut welded on,just cut out the bolt
with a grinder that plate just secure the arm but its the long middle bolt
thats holding the arm in place,as long you have the other 2 bolts to hold
the bracket i think its ok.
Cool good to know.
I know,just follow the instruction and you will get it right.
I have a Mazda 323F 2000. The control arm looks pretty much the same. I
have removed it, but there is problem at the three bolts that hold the rear
bracket. Two of bolts came off easily, the third bolt has loosen, but it
won’t come out, nor it will go back. It feels like there is a nut attached
to it’s other end, which is still attached to the end of bolt. Now bolt is
free and swivels everywhere, but won’t come out or stay in. Did I break it?
what shall I do now? Thanks.
Your welcome thank you.
This ball joint is welded on the control arm,they can cut it out and put in
the new and weld it.Its too much work i just bought the complete arm with
everything plus the ball joint can be remove to service,85 dollars
clearlyauto.
thanks for the video. In the rear end of arm, what is the relationship
between the 3 small nuts and the 1 big nut? Do I need to remove all the 4
nuts to get the arm out? It looks like I could probably get the control arm
replaced without removing knuckle from the strut, is my assumption correct?
there’s more than one ways to skin a cat lo thanks for the comment.
Its press in and tack welded some part,i didn’t have a press or time.I
bought the whole arm for cheap with brand bushings inside.
@tracy95377 Yes the 3 small bolts holds the plate,if you dont remove that
the rear arm wont come out even if you loose the center nut,cause the bolt
is welded/ built on.The 2 bolts that holds the Strut to the knockle give
you more space and play between,you have to free up or loosen in order to
get the control arm out,Thanks.
Yes, they were called 323 Protégé in Canada until 1995. The hatchbacks were
also 323. I think it also went by the name Familia in some countries.
It would be nice if the actually step by step installation process
presented in this video, instead of, just narration on what you did. Don’t
get me wrong, I would love to learn it from you because I am getting ready
to do the same.
What really ticks me off about my freakin’ van is that unlike my Protégé,
you apparently cannot replace only the ball joint, you have to get the
whole control arm and it’s expensive! Other than that, both vehicles are
pretty much the same but with bigger parts for the van. One guy at Napa
said I could get only the ball joint, but I have to go to a garage to have
it installed because it has to be pressed into the control arm. Do you know
if this is actually possible?
About 2 to 3 hours can be done in less time though,thanks for asking and
watching.