Great Job on this series! I’m about finished replacing mine. I really
toiled over the tensioner. I think I’ve got it on right. You kind of left
that part out. You talked about it before and you didn’t sound sure. Then
after you got it on you never really talked about what you figured out
about it. I don’t know if you could or not, insert a bit about that for
future folk like me that were a little lost at that point. Really awesome
though! Thanks for putting that together!
First in depth video on TB replacement for Mazda on the entire internet.
Very awsome man. keep up the good work. Sorry for getting bad comments from
impatient idiots. Like the accent, somewhere where close to south Alabama?
this was a great videos for someone wanting to do it yourself wasn’t sure
how to do this but know i understand it about how many hours did it take
you to do this job thanks again
The engine does turn over. It turns in the opposite direction of how you
would loosen the crankshaft bolt. So, all that is required is to set the
ratchet to “loosen”, brace it and bump the key briefly to pop the bolt
loose.
When you said it was hard but do able, I thought well if he can do it so
can I. Thanks for the video showing the timing marks actually can be lined
up by mere mortals. If not for your videos, I would have given up. I also
finally gave up on my auto parts store T belt as I just couldn’t get it to
go on without a struggle. I went to the Mazda dealer and got an OEM belt.
It went on with not problem. By the way my car is a 2002 Protege, 2.0L. The
cam marks lined up as well as the crankshaft mark.
Well, what it means is, when the crank mark is at TDC, it’s at TDC, every
time. You don;t go around twice or anything like that. Same with the cams.
When the marks are lined up properly to indicate they are in the TDC
position, that’s what they are. So, theoretically, you could remove the
belt, spin the crank and/or cams around a few times, line all the marks
back up, and you are good to go. At the end of the day that’s all that you
worry about, that you have EVERY mark on TDC.
Hey I need to replace my belt as well I was wondering. So when you have the
crank TDC could u just spin the cams to when they are aligned to BC what u
said before about spinning the crank again confused me I thought u could
align up crank then do the cams n slide the belt on….and how did u know
to replace the tensioner or is that just a given like when replacing rotors
u oughta check the pads.. something like one of them deals?
I don’t recall two marks but I’ll take your word for it. Presuming that you
didn’t take the belt off and turn the engine afterward, with the crank
lined up at TDC, there is a line etched into each cam sprocket that face
each other in the center, left to right. They have to face each other
exactly, as if you can lay a ruler against them and they will be perfectly
straight across.
You start installing on the pullies on the side that does NOT have the
tensioner there. That makes it easier to keep from getting a tooth off
between the crank and cam.
How do you know it’s “about nothing”??? You’re having to watch a video to
learn how to do it, you doofus. You and everyone else that b*tches about me
talking, leave me alone. Go take your car to a dealer and sit there and
count out the $1000 freaking you’re going to pay for them to “hurry up and
do it” Would you like me to take the videos DOWN so you can do without?
Keep griping then.
Instead of performing the timing mark alignment. I’ve heard of people
cutting the old timing belt length-wise down the center, slip the new one
on half way and then cut the old one off. This method would probably only
work if your old timing belt is still in good condition and not stripped
out. It would save the having to position and hold with wrenches.
Thank you for this video series! I have exactly the same car (even the same
color), and you gave me the confidence to do it. I especially appreciate
the “tips”…and how calm you manage to stay when things don’t go quite
right.
you should make sure your car has an external trans cooler mounted in front
of the radiator. If it doesn’t I’d recomend getting one. overheating the
trans is a common problem on those year model mazda’s
Video was awesome. Make more. Only question i had was when you took the
gear shaft sprocket off by pinning it with the breaker bar and then using
the starting mechanism, how did you keep the engine from turning over?
maybe i just dont understand how cars work or something, but this part
confused me.
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Great Job on this series! I’m about finished replacing mine. I really
toiled over the tensioner. I think I’ve got it on right. You kind of left
that part out. You talked about it before and you didn’t sound sure. Then
after you got it on you never really talked about what you figured out
about it. I don’t know if you could or not, insert a bit about that for
future folk like me that were a little lost at that point. Really awesome
though! Thanks for putting that together!
First in depth video on TB replacement for Mazda on the entire internet.
Very awsome man. keep up the good work. Sorry for getting bad comments from
impatient idiots. Like the accent, somewhere where close to south Alabama?
great job!
this was a great videos for someone wanting to do it yourself wasn’t sure
how to do this but know i understand it about how many hours did it take
you to do this job thanks again
The engine does turn over. It turns in the opposite direction of how you
would loosen the crankshaft bolt. So, all that is required is to set the
ratchet to “loosen”, brace it and bump the key briefly to pop the bolt
loose.
When you said it was hard but do able, I thought well if he can do it so
can I. Thanks for the video showing the timing marks actually can be lined
up by mere mortals. If not for your videos, I would have given up. I also
finally gave up on my auto parts store T belt as I just couldn’t get it to
go on without a struggle. I went to the Mazda dealer and got an OEM belt.
It went on with not problem. By the way my car is a 2002 Protege, 2.0L. The
cam marks lined up as well as the crankshaft mark.
Well, what it means is, when the crank mark is at TDC, it’s at TDC, every
time. You don;t go around twice or anything like that. Same with the cams.
When the marks are lined up properly to indicate they are in the TDC
position, that’s what they are. So, theoretically, you could remove the
belt, spin the crank and/or cams around a few times, line all the marks
back up, and you are good to go. At the end of the day that’s all that you
worry about, that you have EVERY mark on TDC.
2mins explaining tighting valve cover
I’m glad you succeeded! FWD timing belts are just no fun for anyone but you
save a bundle doing it yourself.
Hey I need to replace my belt as well I was wondering. So when you have the
crank TDC could u just spin the cams to when they are aligned to BC what u
said before about spinning the crank again confused me I thought u could
align up crank then do the cams n slide the belt on….and how did u know
to replace the tensioner or is that just a given like when replacing rotors
u oughta check the pads.. something like one of them deals?
Very creative way to stop the motor from turning, good stuff there! Looks
like you got a damn good deal!
vous êtes les bienvenus! I’m glad this has helped so many people.
No Impact to tighten the crank bolt? Check ebay sometimes they sell nice
new IR impacts for CHEAP.. (Sub 150) Maybe mine was stolen. It works good!
you should make some one else record the next time, it caind of give me a
headic ;-s
why not just upload it here?
I have everything lined up properly and the car won’t start. Do I have to
install all the belts and pulley before I can attempt to star the car?.
I don’t recall two marks but I’ll take your word for it. Presuming that you
didn’t take the belt off and turn the engine afterward, with the crank
lined up at TDC, there is a line etched into each cam sprocket that face
each other in the center, left to right. They have to face each other
exactly, as if you can lay a ruler against them and they will be perfectly
straight across.
quick question: how did you put the pulley back in? used special tool or
did it just slide in?
very good videos got to do a protege5 well informed with your videos thanks
Andy
You start installing on the pullies on the side that does NOT have the
tensioner there. That makes it easier to keep from getting a tooth off
between the crank and cam.
How do you know it’s “about nothing”??? You’re having to watch a video to
learn how to do it, you doofus. You and everyone else that b*tches about me
talking, leave me alone. Go take your car to a dealer and sit there and
count out the $1000 freaking you’re going to pay for them to “hurry up and
do it” Would you like me to take the videos DOWN so you can do without?
Keep griping then.
U talk and talk about nothing for half the videos.
You got yourself a good cheap car there. Its extremely satisfying to hear
that start once you finish a job that involved, great video!
Instead of performing the timing mark alignment. I’ve heard of people
cutting the old timing belt length-wise down the center, slip the new one
on half way and then cut the old one off. This method would probably only
work if your old timing belt is still in good condition and not stripped
out. It would save the having to position and hold with wrenches.
Thank you very much, I’m appreciated your knowledge sharing.
FORDLaserTIERRA1800 ‘2004 in THAILAND
Thank you for this video series! I have exactly the same car (even the same
color), and you gave me the confidence to do it. I especially appreciate
the “tips”…and how calm you manage to stay when things don’t go quite
right.
you should make sure your car has an external trans cooler mounted in front
of the radiator. If it doesn’t I’d recomend getting one. overheating the
trans is a common problem on those year model mazda’s
Do you need to drain the coolant to do this job?
Thanks for all the good information
Video was awesome. Make more. Only question i had was when you took the
gear shaft sprocket off by pinning it with the breaker bar and then using
the starting mechanism, how did you keep the engine from turning over?
maybe i just dont understand how cars work or something, but this part
confused me.