The next installment of this procedure.
1999-03 Mazda Protege timing belt replacement: Part 5
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The next installment of this procedure.
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Yes. Your long explanation of timing marks ended up confusing me,
thoroughly. The question I have is: If the bottom timing mark is correct
and the upper timing marks are correct, can the timing be out by 360? With
the belt off, I difficult is it to turn the two cams to get them to line up.
What you can do is get the marks not completely lined up and on an
interference engine it could make the valves hit, but not on a Mazda. Look
at it this way: Line the crank at TDC, line the cam marks at TDC, and
that’s it. There’s no worrying that it can be 180 out because it’s not
possible on a 4cyl. The cams do have tension because of the springs, I had
to make a redneck cam holder shown in the videos.
Ok….stand back and think about it and it’ll make sense… You are
thinking about distributors and things that can be 180 degrees out. The
relationship between the cams and the crank isn’t like that. When you line
all the marks up and put on the belt, it’s in time and never changes. If
you spin the crank 360 degrees and look at the marks on the cams they will
be opposite where they were before because the cams turn half the speed of
the crank. You can’t get it wrong, it’s not possible.
Thanks for making this video series! I did the timing belt job over the
weekend – took about 8 hours & some of your tricks (especially using the
starter to break the crankshaft bolt free) worked like a charm! One tip
that I’m not sure if it came up or not from others, but if the water pump
pulley still turns when breaking the bolts free, just put a little more
tension on the alternator/water pump belt first to give it the resistance
you need. great job & thanks again!
When you say less than a tooth away on the crankshaft do you mean “half a
tooth or even less that that”?
There is a spring that attaches between it and the engine block. You loosen
the tensioner, let the spring set the tension, then retighten.
One reason that you might need to take off the cam sprockets is for an
engine rebuild, head gasket repair, valve job, etc.. If you’re just
replacing the timing belt then no need to mess with those. Just want to
re-iterate that there are circumstances that do require removal of the
cams. Great video series though. I refer to it a lot. Thanks.
Between Part 3 and part 5. Seriously, it’s there. Just search for my
channel name and timing belt.
thanks. did that, sounds better as if wantin to turn but still nothn.
checkd fuel, gettin up past filter so i figure good. had coil pack tested,
wires replaced. sprayd startn fluid in throttle body etc. nothn.lol idk
man, im stuck
how do u adjust the tensioner???
you just bump the starter? Genius!
It may move just a hair, but after you have the belt on and tension on it,
the marks on the cams should be STRAIGHT across and the TDC mark on the
crank LESS than a tooth away from where it should be. The marks are just
not that precise but you’ll know if you have it a complete tooth off
somewhere.
Recently replaced a water pump on a 1999 mazda protege 1.6 and also had to
place the car back in timing, but now the car will start but runs kinda
rough for a minute and wont stay running but will start everytime. What
could be causing this problem? Please HELP
great
It’s a chore and I don’t like doing them just like i think most people
don’t. However, I can’t bring myself to pay $500 + if I have the tools and
space. Some folks don’t and I understand that.
How many miles did you get out of that timing belt ?
So…if the belt hasn’t stripped, do you just swap in the new belt? Is
resetting the timing necessary?
question, every time I center it go goes of center when I tighten the belt
tensioner is this normal because I can’t seem to get the car started….and
thanks for this video…very helpfull.
havin a hard time gettin the crank to stay on time when i put the belt
around the tensioner.it shifts just to the right of tdc
Looking good so far, doing the timing belt was much easier on my SOHC
engine, but it does not look like its too hard to do it on a DOHC.
Where’s the forth video for the timing belt?
This series of videos makes me appreciate what my mechanic charged me to do
all the work. Looks like a time consuming pain n the butt without a garage
and since I don’t have one… well you get the idea.
Thansk for your Video – looking at taking this task on – anything that you
can think of extra with an auto trans?
To reiterate what you were saying about the TDC mark: Top dead center is
top dead center no matter what. The engine’s compression and power strokes
are dictated by the position of the camshaft, not the position of the
crankshaft. Therefore, when doing this job, whether you’re TDC on the
compression stroke or the power stroke does not matter.
No. The car in the video was also an automatic. Thanks for watching.
It may move just a hair, but after you have the belt on and tension on it,
the marks on the cams should be STRAIGHT across and the TDC mark on the
crank LESS than a tooth away from where it should be. The marks are just
not that precise but you’ll know if you have it a complete tooth off
somewhere.
It failed at 179,000 miles. It was a Mazda belt and the former owner had
the car since 100k and hadn’t done a belt so I guess it was the original.