How to Repair a Fibreglass Car Bar

How to Repair a Fibreglass Car Bar

Redline Tutorial No.10 showing step by step ways to fix a front air dam using fibreglass, kevlar & pouring foam.

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Andrew Wilson says:

Has to be the coolest and greatest dad ever! Makes you want to go for a
beer with him!

Daniel Nunes says:

congrats the master!

amit chauhan says:

Dear sir my name is amit from india and like your all videos which is about
fiber glass and repair our car panels please advice can I remodelled my car
and where can I buy these product.

Thanks
Amit

Vitor Ferreira says:

Congrats a thanks a lot for your vídeos. Really motivated me to have a go
at trying to make a bonnet and a tailgate for my Capri 😉

CHIBA280CRV says:

Another fine video! Thank you.

WJP004 says:

Yeah, I knew all that, but I’ve still got a club member here who insists on
using epoxy resin with csm in making a complete kit car body. Some people
just don’t wanna know!

Grant Butler says:

Love old skool lessons like this! You’ve just helped me do my own work to
my Evo bumper! Thanks from Scotland champ! 🙂

NazoBro says:

Sir, you are awesome. You gave me more ideas than anyone else on youtube!

WJP004 says:

We sell it at my work in Newcastle. Where abouts are you in Oz?

WJP004 says:

No no no – the aerosol foam will NOT work. It’s aeriated by air rather than
by chemical reaction so it’s adhesive and strength qualities are crap.
Pouring or expanding foam is something you’ll only get from a secialised
seller, but I just Googled ëxpanding foam supplies Victoria” and got heaps
of leads you could follow.

jacobbycas says:

thanks, i found this supplier, w
ww.dalchem.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=86&Itemid=107
should i get the rigid one? which type should i get Thanks

jacobbycas says:

where did you get the pouring foam from? I’m also from Australia.

Chris5062284 says:

Excellent video and very informative! Thanks!

WJP004 says:

The rigid one looks the go to me.

WJP004 says:

All I could show you to finish that front bar was to mould and copy it,
which is exactly the same as what I did later in the vid with the Midget
front end, Just fast foward from where I stop working on that green bar to
painting the Midget front with resin & you’ve got all the steps. I’ve also
demonstrated what to do in my other tutorials.

James P says:

Thanks for the repair Dad. It’s great to know all my shortcomings are
video’d in detail, then edited and put on to Youtube for all to see!! I
guess with such an informative video, I’m running out of reasons not to do
this type of work myself. At least I will be able to control what gets
published and what doesn’t!!!! Oh and by the way, some of the “extra”
cracks are simply the way the bar contacts my alloy duct work, but I know
you’re smirking at that and don’t buy it for a second!!!! 🙂

TheApothecaryAus says:

Sorry for my ineptness at this craft but could you do a similar repair on a
standard plastic bumper bar? Or would you have to look into plastic
welding? Thanks. Also would any expanding foam do for the strengthening
(from a fibreglass supplier that is).

rob smith says:

I’m assuming that race car repair is not as permanent as other repairs. HUH
? What I mean is …shouldn’t you grind out the crack and then fill that to
build up the original thickness and strength……….that’s what I do

WJP004 says:

My short term memory is shot – but if you think I’ve forgotten you driving
my VW Golf clubbie into a tree… what can I say? What goes around….

TheApothecaryAus says:

That’s a pain, Plastic welding it is I guess. Thanks for the response. I
asked regarding the pouring foam because my car’s bumper (little daihatsu
charade) is more fragile than a popstick and was wondering if that’d stop
it from cracking at any given point. Thanks again

Blackoutshilo says:

Now that’s cool

WJP004 says:

I haven’t found it necessary to grind out cracks because the strength of
any repair depends on the bonding of the new work to the old. A widened
crack with new material in it doesn’t add to that. The strongest repairs
are where you grind out the crack or drill holes in the original body piece
and put new glass on both sides, making a sandwich interlocked by the
resin. This is just ONE way to do a repair, but I honestly haven’t had a
single sided repair fail in a decade of doing it this way. T

avro549B says:

Very informative – some neat techniques. Just to be pedantic, by
“fibreglass” resin, you mean polyester resin, as opposed to epoxy, (though
I see even some suppliers refer to polyester that way). You probably know
this, but for the benefit of others, it’s important to check the
compatibility of resins and cloths. E.g., epoxy dissolves the binder that
holds CSM together. A quick check online will usually tell you what works
with what.

dcflowconcepts says:

YESSSS!!! Where, Sir, have you been all my life?! I’m so glad I found your
videos! On to the “Midget Frond End Video”……..

GMulheir1 says:

love your videos!

WJP004 says:

Thanks buddy. That’s why I produce these films. So let your creative juices
flow. Expect mistakes and problems when working with this stuff, but if
you’re not afraid of it you can do things with synthetic fibres & resins
that are only limited by your imagination. But beware of all the
“little”jobs your friends will soon bring to your door. They usually end up
being time wasting nightmares.

jacobbycas says:

Glen Waverley Victoria, will the spray stuff work? just not as well?

WJP004 says:

Asking questions is not ineptness but how you learn. Fibreglass will not
stick to moulded plastic bumper bars which are made to be super flexible.
I’ve tried roughing it up & drilling holes through it, but that’s all a
waste of time because it soon seperates. I’m not sure if pouring foam would
stick to it long term as I’ve never had to try it. It may or may not work.

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