Had to re watch it to get but hell ya thats pretty smart. I woulda just checked the voltage waited a few hours and checked it again. Lol. The real question is how do you find whats drawing the amps?
I'm sure Faye knows this, but a tip to anybody else. Make sure to put the positive probe back in the voltage port on your meter when finished. Lots of magic smoke has been released by folks trying to make a voltage measurement with the probes setup for current. Fancy meters like the one featured here will warn you, but the cheaper ones wont!
The first parasitic draw diagnostic I ever had was a head scratcher. Battery just kept dying. Whenever I tested it, no abnormal draw. I was giving up when I tossed the key fob onto the driver seat while the multimeter was still connected. Then it dawned on me. I asked the service advisor to call and ask the customer if she was leaving her keys in the vehicle overnight. Thats what it was. Not only was she leaving the keys in it overnight, she never removed them from the vehicle. Even when she was going to the store. The vehicle never fully powered down until I had the keys sitting on top of my toolbox.
Modern cars allowed for @ 80ma, mainly w agm batteries. Can hook everything up first, just be on the "big a hole" (amps). (which u had done. Locking a car won't draw 10 amps to power down, just turn headlamps off prior). Those shitty battery terminals is the first place I'd be suspect of on a draw. Loose, dirty, non proper connections constantly waking up modules.
The difficulty with current measurements is the huge dynamic current range. You want to accurately measure thousandths of amps but handle hundreds of amps with the same device.
How to solve it? Will there be parasitic drain if there's any problem in ground wire?
Ive heard mostly bad things about those Toyota Truestart batteries
Ok, now do a GM side post.
How do you guys usually test parasitic draw? I only know how to do it with my Vdiagtool BT500.
Had to re watch it to get but hell ya thats pretty smart. I woulda just checked the voltage waited a few hours and checked it again. Lol. The real question is how do you find whats drawing the amps?
I'm sure Faye knows this, but a tip to anybody else. Make sure to put the positive probe back in the voltage port on your meter when finished. Lots of magic smoke has been released by folks trying to make a voltage measurement with the probes setup for current. Fancy meters like the one featured here will warn you, but the cheaper ones wont!
The first parasitic draw diagnostic I ever had was a head scratcher. Battery just kept dying. Whenever I tested it, no abnormal draw. I was giving up when I tossed the key fob onto the driver seat while the multimeter was still connected. Then it dawned on me. I asked the service advisor to call and ask the customer if she was leaving her keys in the vehicle overnight. Thats what it was. Not only was she leaving the keys in it overnight, she never removed them from the vehicle. Even when she was going to the store. The vehicle never fully powered down until I had the keys sitting on top of my toolbox.
Why don't you tell people how much that fluke terminal in kit cost
Modern cars allowed for @ 80ma, mainly w agm batteries.
Can hook everything up first, just be on the "big a hole" (amps). (which u had done. Locking a car won't draw 10 amps to power down, just turn headlamps off prior).
Those shitty battery terminals is the first place I'd be suspect of on a draw. Loose, dirty, non proper connections constantly waking up modules.
This is why I only drive old cars and always disconnect the battery can’t be parasitic drain if the battery isn’t connected to anything
The difficulty with current measurements is the huge dynamic current range. You want to accurately measure thousandths of amps but handle hundreds of amps with the same device.