Ford Expedition heater core replacement

Ford Expedition heater core replacement

Ford Expedition heater core replacement. Step by step showing hidden fastners Etc. Most proceedures are the same for Pickup models.

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shopken1 says:

I made the video as a demonstration of what I believe should be the
standard for “Repair Manuel’s” And not the pathetic, inaccurate and costly
excuses offered to the service technician.

In a world where time and accuracy counts for almost everything we are
hobbled with antiquated and trade damaging excuses for informational tools.

Too bad Mitchel, Chilton, Haynes etc are not listening- The company that
see’s what is possible will sweep the repair world informational demand.

Revo Pilot says:

Great video just did it in 7 hrs exactly. Thanks a lot saved $700

metalmunchers says:

i am sure most of the comments you have received are from the layman and
for the most part they were all positive. here is one from a fellow tech.
DUDE YOU ARE AWESOME. absolutely one of the best , most to the point
videos on the web. thank you so much for being the man :)

Denise M Sanders says:

we started at 11:00am now it’s 8:50 pm… this thing is stuck some where in
the middle. :<

ron magaoay says:

thanks for you help we’re attempting this weekend

shopken1 says:

Nope- the video shows all as claimed.

ron magaoay says:

do you have to do anything with the a/c system when changing out the core.
It doesn’t show in the video

chuong lam says:

thank you for this video

MrBosshobbs says:

Just wanted to say thanks for making this vid. After watching it I decided
to try and change mine out on my 2002 eddie bauer expedition. There were
some differences (like my 3-4 piece dash) bit all in all relativley easy.
This is coming from someone who rarely takes on these projects. Thanks
again wouldnt have done it with out your vid

Pool Person says:

Great video. Thanks! I used it three weeks ago to replace a heater core on
my 2000 Expedition and again this weekend on my 2001 F150. Only took 5.5
hours with the F150. One thing I learned was when putting everything back
together it’s best to ensure that the two screw holes (up against the
windshield under the plastic plugs) are aligned. By securing them first it
was easier to do the rest (the first time I had to undo things because
those screw holes weren’t aligned).

Pool Person says:

Also, for the F150 when the dash starts to pull out, you’ll need to unplug
the harnesses that are located on the passenger side behind where the kick
panel was. There were three for me as well as unplugging the “push pin” for
two harnesses: one where the kick panel was, and one behind the dash. This
helped the dash come out a LOT more. This is my third time removing heater
cores from F150s/Expys and it really isn’t tough if you follow the video. I
can now do it solo in ~4ish hours!

marthazuritaposadas says:

i have the way to change heater cores fast sample on ford f
150,250,expeditions.on,on,on,on, yuo don;t havetoo remove dash all theway

narckison1 says:

Is there a way to bypass the heater core?

jkfw6 says:

Ford R&D: “Ok, we have this really awesome heater core. You could totally
heat something with it. What should we do with it?” Ford Engineers: “Hmm…
well, lets build a truck around it, because it’s so awesome, it should
never need service right? Then your heater can, get this, heat the truck!”
Ford R&D: “Sweet!” Ford Tech/Customer: …facepalm

Theshopgp says:

The removal tool can be purchased from an auto-parts store. It is little
more than a groove cut in a piece of steel that slips over the fitting like
a thin wrench. I have one and almost never use it on the Ford trucks. On an
Aerospace it is absolutely needed as you cannot even reach the fittings
with your hands. You can buy the fittings that fit onto the heater core
lines from a parts store. Look in a Doorman catalog at a parts store if
they cannot find them.

Frank Lindsay says:

So…if you leave your seats forward and the steering column goes only down
to seat level, would that cause the dash to hang up on the drive side? If
so, is it possible to hook the battery back up to move the seat back
without the driver side air bag deploying? I was told it would be ok to do
but want to make sure. Thanks

crackermoves says:

I’d rather fucking freeze!!

J-FKN-B Styga says:

Good video. I worked for ford for over 22 yrs. And heater cores are no joke
on some fords. Continentals you have to remove the black heater box
assembly. Now that’s a pain in the ass job!! Good video. that’s a reason
why I’m not working for ford anymore. Lol. The shit is getting to hard for
my old ass. 🙂

ethandiaz says:

What would a shop charge for a service like this?

cfdchuck74 says:

This video was really good, I think there should be a little more talk
about how hard it is to actually pull the heater core out through the foam
in the firewall but this video is the most detailed one I’ve seen. I
actually took my laptop out to my truck the other day and had it right by
my side, step by step! Great job on the video!

shopken1 says:

No doubt I have done my duty in the trenches of the flat rate bay…. for
many long years. This video was done to display how I believe ALL modern
repair information should be offered. NOT the pathetic excuse for
information that is offered today for the repair technician to attempt to
survive off of.

bert sandy says:

Fantastic video, thank you very much. I have one helpful tip. Once you have
exposed the heater core use a multi-tool and cut through the aluminum
tubes. this will allow you to pull the heater hoses free in the engine
compartment and easily remove the couplings.

xtvdio says:

What a Great job of explaining.Thankyou so much ..

Joel Miller says:

Your video turned it into a 3 1/2 hour job for me… Thanks much! Keep up
the good work!

Heath Lind says:

never had luck with chevys, not gonna own one again

shopken1 says:

@carpetlayer718 – Unlock the column with the key and move the shifter into
1st. Does it drop now? (others have broken the shift cable I assume at this
step) I dont remember if the column used additonal fastners under the
support bar. When released it should drop without force.

Carl Tenter says:

I looked through the comments and didn’t see if this applies to the
2003-2007 models. I have a 2003 that needs one. I have the skills to
perform this repair, but not too sure about hidden fasteners on the 2003
compared to the 2002. shopken1 if you could lead me in the right direction
I would (my wife especially) would appreciate it!!

bubbajuju says:

ShopKen just wanted to tell you how grateful my brother in law and I were
today for your posting this video. 1999 Expedition, we had the heater core
exposed in 1 hour and 15 minutes because of you. We would have removed
countless un-needed fasteners if it weren’t for the time you spent making
this walkthrough. Thank you so much.

TheClint32 says:

I JUST REPLACED THE HEATER CORE IN MY 1998 FORD EXPEDITION AND ITS BLOWING
WARM NOT NOT! SO I ALSO CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT STILL WARM SO I TOOK DASH
BACK OUT AGAIN AND MADE SURE THE BLIND DOOR WASNT CLOSED AND FOUND OUT
MOTOR WASNT WOKING RIGHT AND DIDNT OPEN DOOR ALL THE WAY! …… SO I TOOK
THE BLIND DOOR ALL THE WAY OFF AND PUT BACK THE DASH THINKING I HAVE FIXED
IT PUT DASH BACK IN AND ITS STILL WARM I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHATS GOING ON
HERE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

narckison1 says:

@shopken1 Thanks man!! that worked out just fine.

TheClint32 says:

shopken1 thanks alot for everything you have done for me you have been alot
of help the control panel from hot to cold was bad i replaced it and put
blind door back in everything is heating up just fine now thanks for
everything god bless

pbboy011 says:

thanks for the video man, its because of this video that i figured out why
my blower wasn’t working after the replacement of my heater core, my dumb
butt forgot to plug the conection back in under the passenger side of the
dash. thanks a ton!!

shopken1 says:

@davelsmede – 1) Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? Tail lamps on
when batt. was connected?.. 2) Verify that the shift cable is moving the
transmission completely into park position (or neutral) the cranking
circuit needs either position to allow cranking.. 3) Ignition switch is on
the lower column and remote activated with a rod, Did you bend it or move
the switch position?,, 5) If no to the above you need a wiring schematic to
test from starting relay pins/starter circuits.

لؤي مصطفي says:

شكرا احلي حاجة أن الصناعات الأمريكية رهيييبة ورووعة

TheClint32 says:

BOTH HOSES GOING INTO HEATER HOSE ARE HOT SO I DONT UNDERSTAND WHY ITS NOT
BLOWING HOT AIR INSTEAD OF WARM PLEASE READ EVERYTHING I HAVE POSTED AND
SEE IF ANY ONE CAN TELL ME SOMETHING ELSE TO DO TO HELP OUT IM ALL
EARS……………

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