2000 Pontiac Montana 3.4L Exhaust Manifold Leak Repair (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy

2000 Pontiac Montana 3.4L Exhaust Manifold Leak Repair (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy

This is (Part 1) of the 2000 Pontiac Montana 3.4L Exhaust Manifold Leak Repair video. There is a full version of this video available to Premium Members of E…

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commodore665 says:

arrrgh , I spy a Framm oil filter , kill, it kill it with fire . 

Marc Jones says:

People who complain about the cost of labour should watch videos like this.


Aaron Johnson says:

best advice for the owner is to bring it out back and toss some gasoline on
it and watch it burn down and then collect the insurance money

MrVolvo99 says:

This is even worse than VAG engineering. How could someone engineer a car
soo badly that you have to take out 15 thousand things to get one thing
out? #GMSucks 

Jimmy Baggs says:

The worst part is that after you are finished all you will have is a shitty
pontiac montana…

piercejustin0 says:

3400 good reliable engines for the most part 

AlainHubert says:

These old GM pos were clearly not meant to be easily repaired, even though
they break often enough…
On my 2003 Toyota, remove 2 bolts, disconnect the fan motor connector, lift
up and voilà, you’ve removed the radiator fan assembly.
This is the main reason why I became a millwright and not an auto mechanic.
I have a LOT of admiration for you guys working on such rusted pieces of
crap like this.
Great video editing and camera angles ! 

Cadde says:

YEEEESSSSSS! SONOVA!

I feel for you Eric but we (or at least I) finally got to hear you lose it.
It’s not that i want you to suffer, it’s just that you have been going for
so many years without so much as an inclination towards a curse or swear or
even much anger.
I could sense the frustration and anger brewing all the way through, if it
were me i would swear from the first rusty fastener and i would do some
sort of rain dance at the last few fasteners on the exhaust manifold.
With that fan being a biotch i would just rip it out and throw it across
the garage…
… good thing i am not an auto mechanic… But i am a programmer and my
“hate” leaves a more lasting impression at times.

——————
public ISomeDumbShit SomeReallyAnnoyingPieceOfCode(IIntelligenceObject
iqBelowTen, params string[] dumbArguments) {
if (iqBelowTen != null && iqBelowTen.IsRecentlyStupid) {
throw new IgnorantException(“Ignorance overload!”);
}

// MOTHERFOOOOKAR, I WILL CONSUME YOUR BABIES!
yourBabies.ForEach(bappy => bappy.Eat(new Topping(ToppingType.Ketchup));
return new ProgrammerInTotalRage(true);
}
——————

… So yeah, something like that. I get some good laughs reading some of my
old code sometimes.

By the way, when i saw that you had uploaded a video (yes, Fridays i know)
i got happy. When i saw that the title ended in *Part 1* i got even happier!

Can’t wait to see the follow up’s, i suspect at least a 3 parter. Possibly
4 parts?

russsboy says:

how you can unscrew this rusted nuts and bolts ???????????????????

K says:

in my opinion its not worth the parts + labor time spent on this vehicle.
the engine is leaking, body in poor condition, + almost 15 years old if not
already. it could be sold for parts or scraped and the owner could easily
buy a another 2003+ car combining the money spend on the job fixing it and
the scrapped value

Brandon Cole says:

Eric could u please help me ive been looking everywhere in forums and
watched your vacuum leak videos i like most of your videos because you make
these things really simple for someone completely new to it like me. My
problem is on my 88 v6 pathfinder (tbi) i have a bad vacuum leak where im
idling at 2000 rpm but as soon as i turn the fan on max it idles down to
1100 i think 900 is normal range for automatic. All i keep seeing in forums
is where air will only blow out defroster but mine blows out all vents
while accelarting. i have the compressor bypassed and belt cut because the
clutch pulley was bogging down my motor and shooting sparks in my engine
bay. Any ideas on what that would be as soon as i turn the ac down i get
rpms raising up and all of a sudden like every 3 or 4 seconds it will surge
down bad in rpms. Put fan on max and its idling near factory specs. i do
see a hose cut around the smog pump but figured it had something to do with
the pump. mostly what im asking is does that help pinpoint any particular
hoses? im nervous about doing the propane or carb cleaner as the must ive
done on a car is a brake change.

Ken M says:

I’ll share a little bit of my Montana experiences… 1# the battery
installation is a nightmare.. u have to remove that bracket that also holds
the fuse box.. and that 13mm bolt that holds the battery most of the time
seized and ur stuck with that battery since its inside that fender.. #2
bleed screw on top of the engine somewhere close to thermostat.. never open
it once it breaks its stuck forever then u have a forever leaking coolant..
why use a 8mm metal bleed screw on aluminum gm?!?.. #3 changing a coil
pack.. u have to remove the complete wiper assembly and cow panel.. and
sometimes the wiper arms are seizes.. #4 rear drum shoes … once u remove
that big ass spring that holds them.. its soo hard to put them back.. u
will be fighting and cussing on a spring.. anyways, who ever designed this
car should be hanged along with Saddam! and whoever renamed it to Gm
transport and etc should also be shot! Thank you!

Jesse W says:

Yep, I’ve only done battery replacements on these 3.4s but based on my
limited experience, I don’t like them. Everything is crammed in there. It’s
like GM decided play tetris with the engine bay so they interweave and
overlap everything together. Why GM? WHY? Oh right, I forgot, conservation
of engineering. GM’s motto should be “never redesign anything, just make it
fit”

Zahid khan says:

I’m not a mechanic, watching this was hard work and I’m just sitting here
watching it, Never knew cars are that hard to work on. First time i heard
you swear, nothing wrong with it, i would start swearing the moment i saw
the car, could someone tell me why GM sucks, i live in England. I always
hear about GM sucking What’s that about 

Dick Fageroni says:

damn, that’s a neat trick with the parking brake.

hey, you should do a video with only short tips and tricks like these. you
know, something like “20 best car mechanic tricks”. that’ll get you a
million views.

SPLEclipse says:

Broke off the drill bit didn’t you? In a perverse way, it makes me feel
better that even pros have bad days every now and again. I have to wonder
if having the camera there to vent to makes you feel better or if it makes
it tougher because you have to watch yourself.

MiamiHeat Fan says:

this is why i love v8 trucks. took me 5 minuites to drill out and replace
two broken studs on my passenger side by poking my head threw the front
wheel well

dainternetguru says:

As you were drilling I was thinking to myself “OK Eric, point out to
viewers that they need to make sure they’re drilling inline with the bolt,
line it up with another exhaust bolt to make sure”… I’m hoping to see
part #2 soon.

Agustin Cesar says:

@25:55 Oh I remember now, is “THAT” Pontiac Montana 😛 with the hole on the
water jacket LOLOLOLOLOLOL

crapper1 says:

Good thing i wasnt working that car with you eric id have thrown a hammer
thru the windshield and by that tool throw at the end there im sure you
wanted to roll this thing off a bridge as well

Scott Kirsch says:

Would you do a video on a 6 speed manual transmission operation and
maintenance? I have a 2006 honda civic si that I want to inspect and fix
any transmission problems on. It’s just not running a smooth as it was when
I got it; even with regular MTF changes. Mostly my third gear likes to have
a very light, spit second, grind into place;also rarely popping out of gear.
Whenever I have car problems I always find your insight and knowledge of
car smarts to be the best and most informative source. So even a basic
rundown of removal and inspection would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for
the previous videos and I’m looking forward to staying dirty myself!

Big Guy Review says:

LMAO!….Well thanks Eric. I can now appreciate the 600 dollars I had to
pay to get the same job done on my E250. I am actually thinking I may have
gotten a deal. If I had to do this job, I would have made one phone call.
1-800 tow-truck and let them tow it to the scrap yard.

Matthew Clark says:

hey i Have a question i purchased a 93 mecury villager in hopes to repair
and resell i talked to a few shops nd they said they were more than 80%
sure it was a fuel pump because i explained to them it had a no start issue
after sitting for a year i got it to crank but no start then i introduced
starting fluid through the intake and it started to fire … so after the
advice i recieved from the mechanics i purchased a fuel pump nd replaced it
…and still no start i made sure the fuel pump relay was clicking but
thats all ive really checked ….any tips an advice is appriceated 

zack mcclain says:

Hey Eric I’m sure you don’t get to read all comments but I thought I would
share the method of broken bolt removal we use at our heavy duty diesel
shop. We see a lot of broken off studs and bolts in various types of
materials as well as various locations. The method we use is welding a nut
to the weld bead we make. While I know you may say this is impossible for
broken things below the surface we use a special welding rod that you can
build your weld on top of itself and let it fill the distance the broken
piece of stud would have taken up. At the same time the welding creates
heat and helps loosen the bolt or stud. I believe the rods are called
eutectic welding rods. You should give them a look if you have an arc
welder.


cw2lido says:

I had two broken studs on my Pontiac Grand Prix GXP. I found then after I
removed the motor so lucky for me I had the motor out when I had to drill
them out. The LS series exhaust bolts do this often from what I read. At
the end of your video I heard the same sound that happened to me. Broke the
drill bit in the stud, in the head. I had to drill out the drill bit, which
is a very strong material. My advice and I am sure you will share it with
everyone, slow and steady wins the race! Let the bit do its work, Rome
wasn’t built in just one day and always remember the difference between
shit and shine’ola! Good luck! 

cjwolfer says:

Heya Eric, Got a question for you. Now that you’ve had those grey pneumatic
sockets for a while, does your initial opinions still hold? I’m thinking
about buying some soon as I am starting to expand my operation a bit and
I’d like to get myself a nice set of sockets.

markj says:

Rocking technique works, but it’s also a good way of really twisting and
wearing out engine mounts.

lowpro87 says:

i would of weld a nut on thos studs get them out i hate drilling studs if i
can weld it i will

Niklas Bergsten says:

That engine compartment is too small for a 4 cylinder, yet they shoe horn a
V4 into it. Brilliant!

petej222 says:

always felt let down by GM products

argonian bilbo says:

lemme guess. the bit broke or you cant drill it out.

920gamez says:

At the end of the vid the bit broke off that’s why he screamed 

Herbert Cammock says:

woow hope you get paid well for that job eric

AJ Hainstock says:

At the worst I hope that it was just a broken drill bit at the end. And
that the broken tip didn’t get stuck in the hole it was drilling. And not
the worst case were he drills to far into a cooling jacket :/ I made that
F-up once doing this on a 3.4L 02 impala….. That was HELL from the wife
when I told her I F’d up and drilled a hole to far and now leaking coolant
:(

mrexecutive1 says:

Eric, is it possible to use an air angle die grinder with a drill bit to
get in those tight spots? it is variable speed as well.

LazySniper says:

This is why I hate working on Gm’s. I can deal with fiat-Chryslers, fords,
Japanese and German. But the built quality and thought into putting these
cars together make me furious. Why should a car start leaking after 10k? It
didn’t make sense.

ciscotophat says:

Please stop with the moving the camera all the time. A steady shot does
not need to rock side to side. 

AZ TOYTACO says:

Watching your video makes me want to kick my neighbor in the nuts for
letting his wife drive one these. I can justify it by directing him to this
video. God bless your patience. You now have the credentials to join a
convent, become a nun and run a church daycare of all two year olds for
eight hours a day. 

manny17657 says:

im glad my car is rear wheel drive and the exhuast manifolds are much more
acessable . Considering i know how you feel withe trying to remove the
broken exhaust studs . I was lucky enough to remove my ones with needle
nose pilers.
but at the moment im replacing my heater core
and radiator so i better go and finsh that off. 

juiced71 says:

yep that looks like a job that would diy would encounter
Hey eric hows your back feel ? bent over that car for hours and the busted
bolt for added measures! god bless that job! LOL 

vwbus1966 says:

Hey Eric love your videos… I feel your pain… I know how you said you
hate the ez outs and how you had a bad experience. I’m guessing the same
happened with this bit. I honestly can wait for part 2 now haha. The power
booster in the astro vans seem like a breeze now don’t they?!? :)

Paul Bryan says:

GM cars have to be the worst vehicles made closely followed by Ford. Why
did you even touch it. I hope you charge the owner a fair wack on the
repair bill. 

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