Always consult your shop service manual before attempting any repairs. If in doubt, take your vehicle to an experienced auto mechanic.
I hope this helps someone.
Always consult your shop service manual before attempting any repairs. If in doubt, take your vehicle to an experienced auto mechanic.
I hope this helps someone.
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My Pops could do this stuff in his sleep! This is why I have all the tools to do this Job, But this is 2nd Video I watched and Still coming to the Same Conclusion. Don't think I could do this in a weekend as though I can follow directions and not a total idiot this is beyond my experience and would need to go slow and steady
Very helpful information. My XR-7 just lost the bottom ball joint this evening while backing in the drive, so I'm on the business end of this loaded gun. Be getting the parts and the ball joint press, and do the brakes after I'm thru with the repair. Thanks so much for your help.
great video thanks
@35:05 lol
Moog…is just a name now…like Diehard… unfortunately all manufactured now in China via Chinese manufacturers. But nonetheless, excellent video!
moog are trash these days too unfortunately.
Bout to do this job for a friend, and needed a refresher from when I did it on my ranger. Thank you so much for this very precise video
Smear some grease on your spindle steering bump stops, they look dry.
If these bump stops get dry of grease and the steering is cut as sharp as it'll go and you go to back out of a parking spot you might hear a loud popping and screeching sound from the front end on 2002 and older. 03+ got rack and pinion steering.
Great video.
You are amazing, thank you for the video
Great video you covered all the bases, you are a great teacher. Thanks to you now I know how to replace Ford ball joints.
I have a question on your concrete pad for your lift did you have to put footings or is that a standard 4 inch thick pad or did you go sticker
great video!!! I am a 50 year old seasoned auto technician myself and have done these many times, but could help but learn from your video anyway! I loved your down to earth personality. It was fun and instructive. BTW planning on doing uppers/lowers on my daughter's 98 Crown Vic tomorrow. that is why I was browsing just to brush up on it. I haven't done any of this design in a few years. Thanks again!
Hey thanks for making this video. Have a 96 Town Car that needs new ball joints and this is just what I needed to attack the job. Glad you put the emphasis on respecting that spring.
Unfinished Business
good video i plan to tackle a rear lower ball joint on a 1997 conti with snow on the ground we shall see how that goes
I totally enjoyed and learned a lot from you! Thank you for posting this video.
Nice work War Horse.
"If you put it in crooked then you're kinda fucked"
hi.good job.i gotta do my 93 Mark Viii.making that noise when i turn the wheel.peace
Thank u for your video
Great video
If I found one for super cheap, I wouldn't even mind picking up an early 80s' 380SEC, despite the 3.8 liter engine's dubious reputation. From what I've read, the 3.8's biggest handicap is the weak single-roller timing chain M-B saddled it with. I'm into Detroit muscle, but working on an old Benz doesn't scare me. At the end of the day, it's just a machine like the rest of them. Just give me a good shop manual and I'll yank that front cover off and swap on a double chain set like it's nothing.
I'm not necessarily put off by the 380's lack of power. Some slightly healthier Schrick cams, a custom high-flow exhaust, and the dual snorkel air cleaner off a 5.6 should help that old German boat anchor some. My 4100 lb. 1990 Chevy 1500 longbed has the 160hp / 230 lb. ft. 4.3 liter TBI V6 in it and it moves just fine. It's no hot rod, but it keeps up with traffic.
Just to clarify- The Mercury Grand Marquis was discontinued when Ford killed the Mercury brand in 2007. The Crown Vic and Town Car lived on until 2011 when Ford discontinued the Panther platform they were built on.
I had to chuckle when you mentioned the W126 Mercedes. I just brought my '90 300SEL back home last week, after it sat at a friend's house for almost a year. Judging from the extreme negative camber of the right rear wheel, I suspect the trailing arm is bent. Time for a trip to Pick-a-Part. The factory rear suspension is non-adjustable, but an aftermarket company in Australia makes a kit with eccentric adjusters to fully adjust the rear camber. The fact that the previous owners briefly lived in it and loaded it to the gills with their stuff probably didn't do the old factory springs any favors.
Once I've dealt with the damaged suspension and the bad head gasket, I'd like to do the valve body modification where it starts off in first gear rather than second.