Toyota / Lexus Front Strut, Control Arm, Ball Joint, Sway Bar Link Replacement

Toyota / Lexus Front Strut, Control Arm, Ball Joint, Sway Bar Link Replacement

Complete suspension replacement of typical worn out components: Complete strut, lower control arm with new bushings, lower ball joints and stabilizer/sway bar links.

Some typical wear out symptoms:

Control arm bushings – steering wheel vibration, steering wandering and clunking noises.

Struts – cupped tires, tire shake, wheel shimming or vibration, bottoming on rough roads, body sway while taking corners.

Ball Joints – clunking noise, front end vibration, uneven tire wear, loose or wandering steering wheel.

Stabilizer bar link – clunking noise, poor handling and loose steering wheel.

1997 – 2003 Toyota Avalon, Solara, Camry & Lexus ES300

Parts and Specialty Tools:
(For ES300 97-01, Avalon 07-03, Camry 97-01, Solara 99-03)

Monroe “Quick-Strut” Front Suspension Struts:



Moog Front Lower Control Arm:



Ball Joint:

Moog Sway / Stabilizer Bar Link:

Front Left:

Front Right:

ABN Axle Nut Socket, 30mm, 1/2″ Inch Drive, 12 Point:

Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set

Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm

M12 Fuel 3/8″ Ratchet (Bare Tool)

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Dustin Morris says:

So can you not replace the front bushings?
Better understand you have 2 bolts you need to remove than remove the nut on the back end to be able to pull out the arm.

Gary Zhang says:

This is the best all-in-one guide for the (older) Toyota Camry front suspension replacement. When tightening the three strut mount nuts to spec, it is easier done last after the car weight falls on struts and tires. Also a quick strut top mounting nut torque spec is lower than Toyota’s original.

I have replaced all these parts individually at different time. The hardest part for me was to remove the bolts off the lower control arm with a socket extender as it feels the extender is too loose.
On maintenance vs repair: all these suspension parts last long time but unlikely more than 200K miles. If one plans to drive 300K or 400K miles, it seems far better to simply replace them at half way point to save labor cost and to maximize the benefits of the new parts.

Rod Croskery says:

Every video that I have seen on this topic only does the driver's side control arm. The right side on my 2005 Lexus ES330 required lifting the engine in order to free up the engine mount. How about it, guys? Do the right control arm in a video.

mike smith says:

He just created 3 time the work in getting the control arm bushing of the knuckle. All you need to do is loosen and raise (unscrew) the castle nut and then tune fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. This will create the room you need to get the ball joint off the knuckle. Safe yourself A LOT of work.

Rob Ruddick says:

thankyou man!

david gonzalez says:

just get parts and complete repairs nice and get done .thanks for advice .David

Michael Walton says:

What’s the cylindrical object interfering with removal of one of the chassis control arm bolts ( both LH& RH)on a Lexus 2007 es 350 ?

Simplifying Daily Life says:

What is the torque spec to the control arm bolts?

Gary Pryor says:

Great video. How come you didn't attach the stabilizer link until you finished both sides?

Nikola S says:

My 1999 ES 300 steering wheel shakes when I brake. The rotors are new. How can I diagnose if a bad lower control arm or something else is the cause? If I can just pin point what is the cause of the shaking, I can figure out how to fix it. Thanks.

Damien Stone says:

Hello, good video! I need urgent help! Im trying to replace my right control arm on my 1998 toyota camry. I ordered a used part for it. LKQ auto parts said it came from a lexus but it is the same part. The part of the control arm you are tightening on at 14 minutes (the vertical movement bushing) is tilted up at almost 90 degrees. I couldn't get it to move. So how do I attach it? Also what is the pin type thing on top of the back bushing?

Bazillyyy says:

my shop said it would have to lift the engine to replace the control arm on our 2004 es330… are they just trying to get more $ or are they serious? why would they have designed it like that?

tmorton922 says:

Very nice . Well broken down and edited showing key points throughout. I have wrenched my 1988 4 runner from front to back and numerous issues on my wife's rx 330. (Timing belt, water pump & radiator) Not sure at 63 years if I want to tackle this. I assume an alignment would be advised after this. I would also want to do the rears as well on an all wheel drive. Quoted $2800 for 4 shock towers and 2 front A arms . What say you.?

Rob Drew says:

I changed the sway bar links in the front and the rear of my ES350 and I am still getting a clunking sound whenever I go over the slightest uneven road surface. Would worn out bushings on the control arms also make a similar sound? Thank you for making this video.

Ed Novak says:

Could you just replace the bushings on the original control arm?

Tom Knud says:

Great video, it will come in handy repairing my miley Avalon, should the suspension come up faulty, god forbid.

Closing the Loop says:

Awesome video. Great editing. What year was this Avalon?

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