DIY Mechanic showing detailed video on properly replacing a timing belt with special consideration for interference engine design. Also addresses challenges …
DIY Mechanic showing detailed video on properly replacing a timing belt with special consideration for interference engine design. Also addresses challenges …
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I believe the new timing belts tension remains the same, since the old
tensioner remains the same.
I would like to reiterate what Jeff posted(Wilsons must run rampant on
here, lol) Anything that timing belt touches absolutely should be replaced,
no questions asked. Whenever I do a thermostat, a water pump is done as
well. When a serpentine belt is r&red, a tensioner goes with it. There are
certainly times you have to CYA(cover your ass) Awesome content
Matt…Here’s a question for you….Is a violent collusion between a valve
and a piston as annoying as a liberal?
That’s a very good summary of the options for crank bolt removal. People
without air tools sometimes think that life is easy with air, but even then
there are lots of occasions where air doesn’t work. Another option is to
rent a high torque impact — where I live I can rent a 1″ impact for just a
few dollars.
By the way, thanks for the shout out, Matt.
Dave
Hi Matt. Very good thoughts of changing out all the components that the
timing belt touches. I feel the same way as it’s cheap insurance against
engine damage. Also thanks for the plug on my channel and keep up the good
work.
Hey Matt! Glad to see a new 3 part upload! I am about 11 min and 30 seconds
into part one and I thought I would give my professional opinion on the 2
questions you asked. As a professional, I agree 100% that you should
always replace every component that the belt touches while you are in
there. The biggest reason for this is obviously the savings in labour to
the customer, as there is very little extra labor that needs to be charged
to replace these components while you already have the belt off. Also,
this is one of the clearest examples of preventative maintenance that there
is! Lets say you just change the belt, and then 10,000 miles or so the belt
tensioner bearing starts making a horrible noise..the customer would then
have to pay full labor to remove the belt and change the tensioner. If a
pro does not recommend this, it is a very shady way of possibly attempting
to “double dip” so to speak. Of course there is always customers who won’t
accept this advice and only want the belt changed, but in this case I will
refuse to do the work. These items are considered “consumable” and should
be changed with the belt EVERY TIME!
As for the question about why they make interference engines..I hope some
other pros give their advice on this one as well, but I will give the
answer I was taught in trade school. It basically has to do with emission
compliance as well as trying to improve compression. The smaller and
lighter the engine, the better the economy and emissions will be. Plus,
the smaller and tighter the combustion chamber is, the better the
compression will ultimately be, especially on smaller cars where you are
trying to achieve the best overall power and economy ratio. Having
interference style engines helps make everything smaller and tighter in an
attempt to reach peak performance and still try to have small, light,
emission compliant cars. I am sure there are other reasons that the
engineers would give, but these are 2 that I was taught. Hope this helps!
I am going to go and finish the series now :)
Not smart to pry behind the crankshaft pulley with a pry bar. Many
vehicles use crank sensors now and the backside of the pulley will have
gears (teeth) for the sensor. I’ve seen cases where the vehicle never runs
quite right after that because some mechanic didn’t see the damage and
slapped it back on there for reinstall If you must do it ensure that all
teeth are in good shape before reinstall.
If you want to replace hydraulic t belt tensioner, I would trust the
original one more than I would trust a new aftermarket one. Based off 20
years experience, I always use genuine oem t belt, water pump, drive belts,
and I only replace the hydraulic t belt tensioner if it is leaking. Only
certain parts you can get away with using aftermarket. T belt, water pump,
tensioners always oem. I reluctantly put an advanced auto t belt hydraulic
tensioner on a car one time per customer request and against my
recommendation, well, it only lasted 45 minutes. When I got it back out you
could push it down with one finger. I also reuse idlers provided they spin
smoothly. Out of the thousands of t belts I have done, my methods only
failed me that one time when I went against my own advise.
This is exactly why I subscribed to this channel .you my friend speak the
truth .stay away from the parts changers.
Thanks
I was watching your videos and In 99% of them I’ve seen only good advices
from you. Until this one, I could NOT believe when you said you approved
the ROPE INSIDE THE CYLINDER method. That has to be up there with the SCREW
DRIVER INSIDE THE CYLINDER method as one of the worse dumbest things
someone could do….Do you imagine the particles/debris that rope will leave
inside the cylinder? Potentially scratching the walls, getting in between
rings and lands, past the rings to the main and rod bearings…..Horrible
advise/method
So, using fly wheel tees to lock crankshaft is not so good idea as lock
crankshaft by means of harmonic balancer bolt and turn crankshaft using
same tees is slightly better?
Your title is misleading or you just don’t know what you are talking about.
My generation of sienna which is 2008 sienna uses Timing chain and not a
belt. I’m aware that the generation prior to my generation of sienna uses
Timing Belt. You better correct your tittle. My 2008 sienna is under the
2nd generation which uses timing chain and not a timing belt. 2nd
generation are 2004 – 2010 Sienna. I hope you’ll correct you tittle.
Nice to see more vids! Also a guy named Paul danner aka Scannerdanner
(that’s his channel name) he had mentioned your channel in some comments
that’s how I found out about your channel. Keep up the good work!
Wow! what a quality video with a lot of thoughts into the why of things!
I’ve had success w/ a couple of crankshaft pulley bolt removals (19mm)
using 1/2″ air impact (500+ ft-lb rating) and propane torch to heat the
bolt head for 3-5 mins. One was Acura MDX 3.5L V6. Torch expands bolt
longitudinally reducing bolt tension/friction w/ end washer.
thanks for sharing
Haha, I agree with both of you.
Definitely change all timing related components at the same time. You even
listed all the reasons why quite concisely. However if an owner doesn’t
want to or can’t afford to they are the ones that must live the potential
consequence. I’m really enjoying your lecture format. It’s almost like
taking a DIY class. Very neat. Will be looking forward to watching this
entire series.
I had a timing belt break on a ’98 Sienna. I got differences of opinion
when googling as to whether this motor was interference or not. In the
end, it turns out it was not. Even the website you listed says
“Non-Interference”.
Good video well explained along with good detailed information
The way i remove the crankshaft bolt is to put the car in 5ft gear and have
someone else inside the car pushing the brake pedal and then use a breaker
bar with extention on the socket.