2008 Lexus IS 250 AWD Pads: Stop Tech Rotors: Power Slot Wheel torque:76 Ft/Lbs Front caliper to bracket: 25 Ft/Lbs Front caliper assembly to knuckle: 58 Ft/…
Lexus IS 250 AWD/RWD front/rear brake change
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i used Permatex Disc Brake Caliper Lube its so much cheaper
no jus clean the bolt with a welding brush and then tighten it to spec
Mandip, what kind of Grease or Lubricant did you use on you’re slide pin front brake? I’ve been searching, some of the Grease or Lubricant mess up you’re rubber by the slide pin, if you use a wrong one. i went to Lexus Dealership ask them what kind of Grease or Lubricant i would use, they suggest me this, Toyota Disk Brake Grease – Part No# 08887-80609… it cost $42… thank you and God Bless
thanks for video, it helps me to save money…
Do we need to apply Loctite to the caliper bolts before reinstalling or did you use new bolts?
Mandip your response is completely wrong. Brake fluid is in an air tight reservoir, hence the noise you hear like opening a new jar. Opening the reservoir introduces air into the system. Bleeding techniques should be performed for safety.
They were charging me $700 front $600 for the rear, so I thought i’d try it out
no air is introduced into the brake lines by opening it, should be fine
I have never left a reservoir open while doing my brakes or had an overflow without. I slowly compress the piston with the free tools you can rent from Autozone. You are also introducing air into the system. You absolutely should bleed the brakes after opening the reservoir cap. The factory service manual for the IS at no time suggests opening the reservoir.
Nice video man, what would the dealer charge to do all four?
its been fine no rattles or squeaks to date
The factory service manual states “when replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads”. It does not appear you have done this. Have you noticed issues/noise?
Thank you very much for putting this up! Helped me a ton
good job on video man thanks
been good so far i had ebc full setup with red stuff in my other car before and yea they were ok but these fell soo much better and wayyy less dust and no noise. Red stuff are suppose to be ceramic but still made noise (i dropped power slot in to that car as well).
yea prob could damage thats why i suggest compressing them slowly to avoid any issues and overflow
I’ve heard you can potentially damage the ABS unit if you’re not careful with compressing the piston without the brake reservoir open, not sure if its true or not but I’ve been leaving mine open. Thanks for the tips on the rotors, mine were stuck on I didn’t notice the 8mm bolt holes.
How do the powerslot rotors work for you? I had EBC slotted rotors and threw them in the trash, they were awful, even with proper break in procedures over a period of weeks. Went back to stock and no issues.
One note, never use your Torque Wrench to loosen bolts. It will eventually damage it and throw off the calibrations. You’re better of using a close end wrench or a breaker bar, It much cheaper than mess up your torque wrench. beside that good information.
My brakes is not due yet! But I love how you explain it step by step!
Excellent video. Changed the rear out in 1.5 hours. Super easy. Thanks!!
thanks a tonne bud, saved me a lot of money!
Your vid was really helpful, thanks!
I’m glad I’m a bimmerphile, because changing brakes on a Lex or a Merc is a pain in the caboose. No wonder Bimmer builds the best chassis, but then again I might be biased.