01′ Lexus RX300 1MZ-FE 3.0L Valve Cover Gasket,VVT Gear and Oil Control Valve

01′ Lexus RX300 1MZ-FE 3.0L Valve Cover Gasket,VVT Gear and Oil Control Valve

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Don Currell says:

I have a 2001 RX300 on my hoist at the moment being repaired for a head
gasket leak. When I pulled the cams I hadn’t noticed the two sets of timing
marks on the VVT gears. Your video clarified the double and single marks on
the gears for me. Very appreciative of the information you put out there.
Couldn’t find it on ALLDATA or IDENTIFIX and the local Toyota dealership
wouldn’t help. Thanks, Don

Diana Donovan says:

Thanks for your video. I am a tech working on a 00 RX300 w/ a 1MZ-FE 3.0L.
I have no codes but car came in running a little knarly. I performed VVT
CTRL B1 & B2 ACTIVE TEST. After finishing Bank 2 test, the engine stalled
and would not restart. After chking fuel and spark, a compression test
revealed low compression on all front cylinders 2,4,6. None of the cyl’s
tested higher than 50 psi. After squirting some engine oil in each of these
cyl’s, the engine started after which I drove the vehicle down the road. It
felt a little low on power and had a diesel like noise to it. Repeating
compression tests again produced around 110 psi this time. This engine was
just overhauled w/ new rings and bearings, however the VVT actuators are
original. Prior to her latest symptoms the vehicle performed well , it has
200,000 miles on the odom. Only one VVT solenoid was replaced 2 yrs ago,
thanks.

Dailydriven79 says:

No coolant was lost or drained on this job.

Halim Sarker says:

What kind of Ratchet you used with 14 mm socket to remove the 14 mm bolt
behind the Air Intake Chamber at engine hanger no. 1 in the top? Does it
Gear Wrench pass through socket?

Joseph Wu says:

How did you know you needed to replace the VVTi Gear? Was it showing an
engine code? What are the symptoms of a bad VVTi gear?

Halim Sarker says:

Nice video.

xpBuf says:

Thanks for the video. Did you drain the coolant before starting?

Dailydriven79 says:

Those are under the lower intake manifold. At about 2:10 in the video,
proceed to remove the fuel line, water outlet and the 12mm bolts for the
intake, then pull the intake with the fuel rail and there they are. They’re
27mm or 30mm; I like to replace that short wire harness with both of them
while I’m in there.

Dailydriven79 says:

“Under certain conditions customers may experience a MIL “ON” condition
with DTC P1349, indicating a variable valve timing (VVTi) malfunction. In
some cases, the cause of this DTC may be the VVTi actuator. Use the
procedures in this bulletin to verify the operation of the actuator.” This
is a copy/ paste right off T-SB EG007-03. The VVT gear is replaceable, the
nut that holds it is non reuseable. I don’t think it would cause a high
idle though.

Dailydriven79 says:

I gave the customer a few options like trying the oil control valve only
first. But they chose to do everything at once and sure enough it got fixed
the first time. A little sludge build up can cause the valve and or the
gear to stick and the symptoms will be the same.

lexusfan100 says:

where is the knock sensors. was it visible when you removed all that stuff?

sansommichelle says:

STILL throwing same code,same symptom,high idle when warm.Now…I called
the machine shop who rebuilt the engine and asked if the VVT hubs had been
replaced and they said you don’t do that on the toyota.Im baffled.It IS
specified as nonreplaceable right? SO…we’ve been chasing the problem that
should have been done with the rebuild right?

Dailydriven79 says:

@ 1:30 I show the tool I use to crack the 14mm intake bracket loose. Then I
take all the intake bolts out so I can move the intake alittle while I
finger the bracket bolt out.

canoeshoe says:

How to you take the rear bolt that connects the manifold to the engine? Its
on the rear bracket.

Dailydriven79 says:

Snap-On FHOM14

ChuddleBuggy says:

Howdy! How do you remember which bolt or nut goes where?

Dailydriven79 says:

VVT is a hard system to diagnose. Active testing the system while idling
should cause it to run rough, if not, somethings stuck or blocked. If it
works but continues to run rough when switched off, somethings stuck. Both
conditions will throw codes/ check engine light. On some motors the oil
control valves can be swapped and the system rechecked. After that you can
check valve timing and the condition, pressure and level of the oil. This
one was sticking,

sansommichelle says:

Hi.Hope you can advise.We have a nightmare here.2001 highlander 3.0.Vehicle
was brought in with newly rebuilt (elsewhere) engine.CEL light and code
P1349.VVT solenoid 1 was bad.Customer agrd to replace both AND we realized
the screens hadn’t been touched when rebuilt.No tears/damage,cleaned BUT we
also then assumed noone replaced the VVTi gear.

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