In this epic instalment I fit the turbo and alternator in the engine bay, have a go at the handbrake and steering box then it’s outside for some work on the rear tub.
Chapters:
0:00 Turbo
14:51 Welding up the floor supports
20:39 Alternator fitting
34:02 Handbrake fitting
37:53 Steering box
45:41 Rear tub
Project Kermit is a 1978 Land Rover Series 3 109 (long wheel base) which is being stripped right down and rebuilt with a 200tdi engine and a few other improvements. The other videos in the series can be found in this playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNE6DEIclzg3yHWooBXZj8xXiQEjnF8o3
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We always get a kick out of Ironthumper complaining about the quality of the cheapest tools he could buy online. Words to live by……………. Nobody ever went broke by spending to little.
Another awesome video
I have to say I watch all your doings, but this one has been fascinating. You to me are working in a little bit of paradise, your music is all the song birds entertaining you as you progress along.
Your workmanship is really good. The land rover will be one of the best I am thinking.
The rotational play in my dad's series 2a Landover gear stick was horrendous.
Looking good, well worth watching.
Cheers Max, really enjoyed this, a way I was told of seeing how many shims are required for the bearing preload, is to tighten everything up and measure the gap you have, without shims in place, then you can check what combination of shims are required for correct preload. This process worked well in a number of places on my wwii jeep, also on the axle kingpins bearing preload.
Well done that Man! you really know what you are doing with that engine build, i 've done bits? but certainly nowhere near the detail you do, I admire your skill & thought process, you seem to have vast experience, in lots of things? sadly, I only have a smidgin compared to you, but it is fantastic watching you complete something.
Where did you get your poly tunnel from mate ?
Great content as always Max. I think you may have made the same mistake I made years ago with the handbrake. The nuts on the threaded rod going through the lever should all be at the top locked together (hence the need for a return spring). This allows the rod to move relative to the lever as the gearbox twists on its mountings slightly during use. If you have the nuts either side of the lever pivot this movement can cause grabbing of the handbrake.
If you can find a s/h ex army steering box that's the way to go
Your fabrication skills…………Fitzie would be proud !
Loving this series of videos I’ve watched them all from the start. I love the camel trophy colour. What an Incredible life style you lead.
Coming along an absolute treat