How to Replace the Front Lower Control Arms on a 2004-2013 Range Rover Sport

How to Replace the Front Lower Control Arms on a 2004-2013 Range Rover Sport

Brian Eslick from How to Automotive http://www.howtoautomotive.com takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the front lower control arms on a 2004-2013 Range Rover Sport.

Affiliate link mentioned in the video for 2006-2013 Range Rover Sport Rear Lower Control Arm Left (Driver) LR019978 OEM http://amzn.to/2sbrA3x

Affiliate link mentioned in the video for
2006-2013 Range Rover Sport Rear Lower Control Arm Right (Passenger) LR019977 http://amzn.to/2rNWJt8

Affiliate link mentioned in the video for Milwaukee 2754-22 M18 Fuel 3/8″ Impact Wr- Xc Kit http://amzn.to/2p7ktEs

Affiliate link mentioned in the video for
BETOOLL 5pcs Front End Service Tool Set Separate Pitman Arm Tie Rod End Puller B http://amzn.to/2qREDU0

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Owing to factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modification of this information, or improper use of this information. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. How to Automotive/Brian Eslick recommends safe practice when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jacks and jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemical lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Because of factors beyond the control of How to Automotive/Brian Eslick, no information contained in this video shall express or imply warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not How to Automotive/Brain Eslick. #howtoautomotive #AutoRepair

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Comments

Deadpool says:

Yes we know you have a Milwaukee impact gun, you don’t need to tell us the name and model of it every time you pick it up.

Mentes Poderosas says:

Porque lo pones en español y hablas inglés inbecil

turdbglr says:

Thank you for this very useful and informative video!

zmey rs says:

Outstanding diy tutorial, thank you

Matt Hannah says:

No need for a puller at all.

Take the air spring mounting bolts out. And the camber and caster adjustment bolts out, let the arm hang, and smack the shit out of the knuckle with a 3 lb hammer where the ball joint goes. Pops right out in one go.

You make this much more difficult than it should be. I can have both sides done in an hour. Use witness marks to get the alignment as close as possible. Then torque them down after making adjustments on the alignment rack.

The alignment takes longer than the parts replacement, redoing the caster sweep 3 or 4 times.

Source: im a JLR tech

CF S1kR says:

Is this the same method for the supercharged with dynamic suspension?

Justin Scott says:

Thank you Brian. very big help fully detailed videos

Luis ramos says:

I got some lights on dashboard when i did the lower control is that normal i heard a alignment will fix the lights on dashboard

Roman D says:

Guys I see this video is still being viewed.. So few things author didnt do and did not mention that are accepted as best practice to do this job:
1) Alway always order hardware kit with your control arms. These large bolts rust and cease. Sometimes they have to be cut. Either way, putting already rusting old bolt back there is not so wise, in my humble opinion, use new ones.
2) always always pack inner part of bushings where these bolts being fitted trough with anticease compound and apply some to the bolts as well – you will 100% undoubdetly thank me later when/if you have to visit this again.
3) whiteout marking are a good practice but new control arm will require alignment regardless.
4) as mentioned, LCA needs to be at ride height before you tight those 2 bolts up. So when you come home, stop the car, do not turn off the engine, do not close drivers door, just come out take a ruler and measure distance from center of wheel to a fender lip. Now while doing the job you can assemble everything except tighting up those 2 bolts, jack up the hub so middle of the hub to fender lip will be what you had measured before- thats will be your ride height and then tight up and torque those two last bolts.

Edgar Tuttle says:

ITS THE REAR CONTROL ARE!!!!

creasy bear says:

Mate that was straight to the point with every step detailed perfectly. Congrats on one of the best how too videos I've watched without having to sit through someone's life story.
Great work.

Gerry Gorman says:

Hi Brian, just wanted to say what an excellent video. I need to change my arms on my 208 RRS, do I lightly put the bolts back in to the arms and lift the suspension up before retightening?

Cheers

Gerry

Steven Phillips says:

One of the best DIY’s I’ve ever seen. Techniques, torque specs…perfect video!

فاروق النائلي says:

اني بل عراق وين الكي غراض مواد حتياطيه

Jeff N says:

Wrong part numbers for front control arms

Miguel Garcia says:

Thanks it took me 6hrs to replace both lower arms+rotors,l didn’t have to remove the shell and yes very important do not tight bolts with suspension hanging

Andre Ancrum says:

Good video…but do u have one doing the upper control arms

Steve Shih says:

Thanks for the video. How long did it take you to replace it? Thanks in advance!

Ganbala says:

Yeah same process apply to the LR3 and 4 to……

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