Replace Front and Rear Wheel Hubs with No Power Tools: 2011 KIA Sorento

Replace Front and Rear Wheel Hubs with No Power Tools: 2011 KIA Sorento

Change your wheel hubs without using power tools. This will save you money if don’t want to buy an air compressor and an impact air ratchet.

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Torque specs:

– Brake caliper pins: 23 ft-lbs
– Brake caliper assembly to knuckle (front): 72 ft-lbs
– Brake caliper assembly to knuckle (rear): 54 ft-lbs
– Wheel axle nut: 159 ft-lbs
– Wheel sensor: 7 ft-lbs
– Tie rod: 24 ft-lbs
– Ball joint: 86 ft-lbs
– Knuckle/spindle bolts: 130 ft-lbs
– Wheel hub bolts (front): 86 ft-lbs
– Wheel hub bolts (rear): 65 ft-lbs
– Wheel lug nuts: 80 ft-lbs

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Music: Not Too Cray – Huma-Huma
https://youtu.be/ED8ZDdInNtw

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“Automotive For Beginners” makes no warranty of any kind for the information expressed in this video or in the description box. In no way will “Automotive For Beginners” be liable for any damage caused due to using the information here in this video or description box whether that damage is to person, finance, or property. This video is for educational purposes. Use this information at your own risk.

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Comments

Simon Durkee says:

Can't you just take the 4 hub bolts off without removing the entire assembly? I'm not sure why you disconnect the entire assembly just to access the 4 hub bolts.

Wes says:

Good video really good simple and straight to the point

Raffie B says:

What size was the nut for the axle?

Darlene Hall-Jones says:

Excellent video for women not to be over charged by over estimating.

alienrocketscience shared says:

The spindle and splines in his video were dry and rusted. I recommend greasing the spindle/splines before assembly. It takes a second or two and will make disassembly easier when it comes time to replace that pesky CV axle.

alienrocketscience shared says:

Just take the four retainer bolts off the back part holding the hub on, then the main axle nut. (After loosening the four bolts, a slight spray of lubricant like WD 40 will allow you to remove them the rest of the way by hand, instead of repeatedly repositioning your box wrench.).The hub/bearing assembly will come right off without dissecting the whole wheel/strut/steering assembly. The brake assembly can also come off in one piece with all brake components together by removing the two main 17mm bolts in the back.
So unless you are also replacing the CV axle, ball joint, or steering knuckles, don't bother with the majority of the steps you saw in the video.
1. Jack vehicle off ground and support with jack stands.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove axle cotter pin and loosen axle nut.
4. Remove speed sensor just to get it out of the way and prevent damage (10mm bolt, on the rear it is a wire connector.. unplug it).
5. Remove complete brake assembly by removing the two 17mm bolts in back.
6. Remove the four bolts holding on the hub/bearing component, and finish removing main axle nut.
7. If needed us a wheel/axle puller (if axles splines are frozen in the hub/bearing component. This happens almost always if the components were installed without first greasing the splines.)
8. With a couple of off center knocks with a hammer the hub/bearing component will pop right off.

I recommend also that you put a little WD 40 or similar lubricant on the bolts and the hub/bearing "seat" before disassembly.

Then complete task using reverse order.

alienrocketscience shared says:

GREASE THE SPINDLES!!!!!!!

Troy Anderson says:

Great video. I assume it's probably about the same as doing a 2010 forte. I think my sons needs to be replaced. He said a screaching sound comes and goes. I have to look at it this weekend but, I'm thinking it's gonna be the hub bearing. The car has newer brakes.

Michael says:

Is the rear hub the same for front wheel drive?

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