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Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
0:27 Mounting Location
3:10 Amplifier Layout
5:00 The Best Power Wire
5:54 How to use zip ties
6:30 Speedwire (aka 9 Wire)
8:44: Car disassembly and wire runs
10:20 How to get the power wire through the firewall
13:19 Fuse Installation
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The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl.sh/diyaudioguy08221
Looks like you missed the part on 5 Star about putting the lock tabs on your zip ties either down to the side or, even better, on the back of the amp rack. Careful not to gouge yourself on the sharp edges until you can move those out of the way.
Can please make a video on how to install a system in a 2020 Kia forte GT line
If you need a backup camera, you have no business driving.
Cool…yeah, the firewall situation stumped me for a bit today until I found the info in Mazda forums. This is day one of my first install. I'm just going to be working on it little by little on weekends. (I work long hours weekdays)
I've been doing ALOT of research to find answers and guidance, but there are many varied opinions on the web. I may be asking a few questions along the way and would greatly appreciate any help you may share.
That's a pretty good DIY job. Nice work.
Maybe some tips to save money…Welding cable is the best power cable because it has a rated amperage rating, and for the "speedwire" you can buy trailer wire…at least thats whats it is called in the Netherlands…Those are 13 strands or some other strand count…They can be used for speakers and remote turn on…Saves money..
Man i love your personality, you make it seem like anyone can do it, so nice
A nutsert is not a good location for a ground in a vehicle because the body parts are painted before the nutsert is installed to prevent paint from getting in the threads. Best ground is sanded or grinded down to metal and atleast 3 sheet metal screws on body mount locations. Always remove the paint.
Thanks for the great video!
You give solid advice about car audio. I’ve been in the game since the early 90s and your information is solid.
'amp turn-on lead'..I heard this said multiple times, this no longer called a remote lead?
1st off VERY NICE INSTALL! here's a couple power wire tips, if the car/truck is an automatic, and has manual as an option, you can look for the spot the clutch pedal goes through, also there's usually a wire harness going through somewhere, you can usually slide in through the side of it. lastly use a HUGE ziptie (like airconditioning guys use) to fish wires, you can usually slip the wires in the hole and they will stay, if not tape em there.
Nice work Justin. It came out good.
You can do my 84 Thunderbird
Cool man thanks
Am I the only numpty that still mounts the amps below the front seats (shorter wire runs = less chance of noise, better power delivery, and it's cooler in the cabin where the A/C is)? :-). It also makes it a lot more difficult for those who want my equipment more than I do to remove them. Also, I avoid drilling through the firewall unless I really, really have to. Things can go badly very quickly, and when it's time to remove the stuff from the car, there's a hole in the firewall that needs to be addressed. For my car (2007 Hyundai Tucson) I opted for running the power cable through the left fender and then through a factory-provided grommet into the cabin. I also opted for a circuit breaker rather than a fuse, which I screwed to the inside of the engine bay, as close as possible to the battery – this makes it very easy to switch the voltage off on the power cables very quickly. Good advice on the tie-wraps BTW – you can never have enough of those, LOL.
Hey is a Skar Audio EVL-1X65D4-V-LP 6.5" with Skar 350 amp a good setup?
looks pretty good so far
on future installs …tie the zip ties on the back of the board so its even cleaner
We owe 5 Star gratitude for teaching us how to install on a much greater scale.
Love Justin's vids…I always learn something.
Looks amazing so far, can't wait to see the end results!