Ok…I was not happy with my initial rear wheel bearing adjustment. I noticed that the rear drums felt hot after a 250 mile road trip. I did a little researc…
Ok…I was not happy with my initial rear wheel bearing adjustment. I noticed that the rear drums felt hot after a 250 mile road trip. I did a little researc…
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
My Kia Rio 1.5 RS 2001, is making a terrible noise, “Like air plan” from
the front right wheel.I changed the bearing, hub…everything!! 12 times
:-(, and nothing changed. plz help me. thank you in advance.
…Any foreign material inside this area (oil, coolant, dirt, old bits of
timing belt, even snow) can cause the timing belt to jump time or destroy
it. A friend once called me to look at his Yugo. Would not turn over & made
a clunk when he tried to start it. He had it in his garage when I got there
and I asked if he had parked it outside. His answer was yes, and I went
right to check the timing belt. The fine snow had got into the timing belt
area and caused it to jump time. Hope this helps.
This is where the bearings contact and roll. Damage this surface and the
bearing will fail. They do make special tools to remove/install the races.
I have always used a drift punch, socket and hammer and have never ruined a
bearing or race yet. Be careful. Bought my bearings, races and seals at a
local parts store (NAPA). They looked at me kind of funny when I tried to
explain the nut. Your local KIA Dealer should be able to get you the nut
and anything else. Recommend new dust caps too.
I bought the car with 7000 miles on it. It now has 160,000 miles and I have
replaced the timing belt 2 times so far. Never had a belt slip or break.
There is a timing belt kit that includes the tensioner pulley and spring
that I used for my most recent belt change. Some kits even come with a new
water pump, I will be buying that next time. Water pump will probably be
due for it. It is important to ensure that the 3 plastic covers are sealing
the timing belt area properly…continued…
The problems I see with the pull gauge are… -You have to buy one, store
it, maintain it. -Is the tool you purchased of good quality? There is a lot
of junk out there that companies try to pass off as tools now days. -Are
you sure it is giving you an accurate reading? In the Navy we had a
Calibration Lab that we sent our special tools to ensure they were reading
correctly. -Are you sure you are doing the procedure correctly & using the
tool properly to obtain an accurate reading?
Thanks for the explanation. I will let you know how it goes once I have all
the parts
AND WHY DO YOU GET THUMBS DOWN, WTF? there are some really stupid ignorant
people that dont need internet access.
thanks for sharing. is it difficult to remove the old bearings? where do
you buy the oil seal, thrust washer and lock nut?
Yes…I question these myself since they don’t leave comments. Maybe a
little constructive criticism?? I just figure it is one of my angry ex’s,
maybe Al-Qaeda and laugh…:)
very helpful, thanks,
I know this has nothing to do with what I’m about to ask, however, seeing
as it is your most recent Kia video, I’m curious to know if you you’ve had
timing belt slippage issues? The reason I ask is because I did. My timing
belt slipped, over a large piece of rubber that lodged itself between the
crank gear and timing belt. I bought this car at 150xxx and ran fine for
8000 day after I did my last oil change it slipped on me. I couldn’t figure
out the problem till I took the lower cover off my car
I’ll be glad to send you a copy of the bearing spec sheet with proper
procedure if you will send me your address or email. The video is missing a
very very important step. Read below.
Not difficult at all. You need a large Drift Punch and hammer. Lightly tap
on the side of the bearing race, alternating from one side to the other and
it will pop right out. Tapping too much on one side will skew the race
making it more difficult to remove. Installing the new races is the
challenge. I used a large socket, slightly bigger than the race and lightly
tapped the new race into place alternating from side to side. Be careful
not to damage the machined inner surface of the race…
Now over 1500 miles and all is good.
Glad I could be of assistance.
Yes. Other small front wheel drive cars should be about the same procedure
for the rear wheel bearings. I now have around 20,000 miles since I did
this (170,000 miles on the Rio) with no problems.
i found same information in Lanos repair manual.
I’ve seen em go 4000 miles before failure again. I’d like see how your’s is
doing after that amount. You didn’t finish reading the chilton manual you
referred to. The final step is to re-tighten the spindle nut to the proper
specification for your vehicle before locking it down and returning the
auto to service. Very dangerous.
I have now drove the Rio over 500 miles without any issues. Drums feel
slightly warm, after driving a while. I can touch them with the back of my
hand. No bad noises heard, brakes working fine, so I figure everything is
good to go.
Glad to be of assistance. Hope all turns out well.
It’s a matter of pulling the scale until the hub begins to turn to
determine the amount of drag. Keep and eye on your pull scale as you tug on
it and note the reading when the hub begins to move.
There is a final step missing in the video. When the lock nut is backed off
measure the drag of the seal (rubber to spindle) and add that amount (in
N’s on a pull scale) to the specified 2.6 to 8.5 N specified bearing drag
and tighten lock nut to get that total on your pull scale tool before
locking down the nut. Failure here will end in you being stranded on the
road. A pull scale is dirt cheap (about $10) on ebay or Amazon.
Oh and you will reuse the thrust washer.
Thanks for your info. I understand and appreciate your input. I, like a lot
weekend mechanics don’t have or want to purchase a specialized tool that
will spend most of its time collecting dust and getting knocked around or
lost. Procedures I used worked out fine (10,000 miles so far). Lots of
interstate miles with speeds of over 70 Mph. Wider than stock tires too.
Backing off the lock nut to adjust the thrust washer for a slight amount of
play ensured that the bearings were not too tight.
Thanks, we have a Rio coming in tomorrow for the rear brakes and your video
was very helpful. It was in today for a brake check and the customer is
going to the dealer to get those nuts himself before he brings it in
tomorrow. They can’t cost all that much? Seeing how loose the Thrust washer
should be will help me not having to do the job twice. …and i agree why
not a castle nut.