Drop brackets are great way to correct the geometry of your front control arms after installing a lift on a Jeep Wrangler or Gladiator truck. Just like long arms, they will allow your arms to sit closer to stock again and that will help to improve ride comfort and handling and without having to do any drilling, cutting or welding on the frame. The best part about them is, they’re affordable and in this video, you’ll see just how easy it is to install a set made by EVO Manufacturing.
EVO Geometry Correction Brackets: https://evomfg.com/products/jl-jt-front-overland-control-arm-drop?aff=2
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Great video as always. Thanks!
As always great video
Eddie, your videos never fail to entertain! I eagerly anticipate each new installment where you not only add exciting new features to the Jeep but also provide clear, step-by-step installation guides. Your content has been immensely helpful in customizing both my Jeep and my wife’s. I'd love to see your next video cover installing rear axle shafts or upgrading to a bolt-on long arm kit. Looking forward to it, Eddie! Keep up the great work!
I always enjoy your videos. Very informative, accurate and entertaining.
It looks like the ones for a 2018 rubicon are a little different
Gotta tell you, I have drop brackets on my 2.5” lifted 2-door JL and it is a BIG DIFFERENCE in the driving and steering. I couldn’t quite get the bottom mega torque on that bolt with the clearance I forgot to give myself, so I used a floor jack to torque it. Hope it’ll help one of y’all, out there.
Evo once again made another great kit. These work best with fix control arms. Though if you're lucky enough to have adjustable control arms, I would highly suggest getting the alignment readjusted once done. As this is exactly why we have adjustable arms… so we can adjust the axle angles to the proper alignment after a large lift. It will only help make good things better.
Can't stop watching! ��
Have loved my teraflex drops with the drop bracket Reinforcements.
Has worked perfectly for 3 hard years now.
You went back to stock lengths for the upper and lowers after putting the drop brackets on?
Not a drop bracket question but replacing my LCA with Mopar kit longer ones and can’t get wrenches under it enough to loosen then torque. Can I just do this with axle on jack stands like you’re doing here so weight is on the axle?
Did you not have to reset your caster?
Great video! Super informative. I have a jk with 3.5 lift and fixed UCA and adjustable LCA to be 4.3 degree caster now. With the drop bracket should I readjust the LCA length or just leave it as you did? the whole axle will move a bit forward so. Thank you!
Awesome Outstanding job thanks you
Great video as usual. May I ask a question. What do you think about the aev 2 inch spacer lift? If I get it, should I get adjustable front and rear track bars of will the factory track bars still be fine? Thank you in advance.
That Jeep sure has a clean underside…
Gotta love EVO products. Thanks for sharing.
Do you suggest doing a front end alignment after installing? Or is that necessary?
Great video. I ran geometry correction brackets about 5 years on my 2016 JKUR with a 4" lift, and 37's/ 38's. The brackets did help, but I was on fixed control arms. When I switched to adjustable mid arms, and got rid of the brackets. After an alignment the Jeep drove just as well. I am not going to say they are snake oil because they do work for fixed control arms, but if you have adjustable control arms there isnt much I could tell to gain. At least that was my experience. I am also not a pro by any means, so take my thoughts with a gain of salt. In the grand scheme of things these are about $150. give it a shot, and it may help you out a ton more than it did for me.
Cons:
1) There is a ton of leverage/force applied to the brackets. Even when properly torqued the bracket If you do not re torque the bolts after say 500 miles or so the bracket can rock leading to oblong through holes. This will lead to poor tolerances on the bolts, and the bracket will "rock" in the direction the force is applied. You will begin to hear a clunking sound.
2) You need to get fully boxed design. There are "sandwich" designs out there, and they will bend/fold. The ones in this video seems boxed, and of good quality.
3) Rocks can eat these up. On larger tires it is less of an issue. Mine were semi beat up with 37's/38's. Also just like I mentioned above the through holes can get messed up if you take to many hits with the rocks. These multiply the forces seen via leverage, so keep that in mind. Like anything offroad you need to check them after trail runs.
4) There are a lot of folks out there whom do not understand what these things do. They will constantly, and irritatingly try to tell you these are worthless, or dumb. Even if they have now clue what your build criteria is about. Not all rigs are the same nor are your needs.
5) This is nit picky, but you take a small hit in the ground clearance department technically. The only time I even noticed was the once in a blue moon direct hit in the rocks out here in the PNW. Specifically Reiter ORV park. The rocks are large boulders strategically placed along the trail system. You can look it up YT to see what I am talking about. Regular scenic trails I never touched these on obstacles.
My friend your timing is on point, love your content, stay well and healthy!
Question, is something like this not required for the rear? Thanks, great vid!
Who makes that giant torque wrench?
Great video as always. I do have a question though as I’m planning to install a lift for the first time myself in the near future.
If the drop brackets were installed at the time of the lift, would you have altered the length of the control arms differently than what they are now? Hope this question makes sense. I’m a newb with this kind of thing.