Easy DIY Axle Seal Replacement: Jeep Wrangler Dana 30 axle seal leak

Easy DIY Axle Seal Replacement: Jeep Wrangler Dana 30 axle seal leak

Jeep Wrangler YJ Dana 30 Passenger side Axle Seal: https://amzn.to/3eHBOOz
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G Gnu says:

The very best Jeep repair instructor on the web. Even includes torque numbers for reassembly. Great job, Dale. Thank you.

Christian Dean says:

Awesome method of changing that seal. I used an old hole saw blade of the right size with the teeth ground off on a threaded rod. Washers appear to be just as good or better. I think I mangled two new seals before getting the third one in successfully. Buying extra seals is good advise based on my experience in other words..

TheNikatlaka says:

What kind of differential is do you have in there cuz I have the same one and I can find the seal

RESISTANCE AGAINST TYRANNY says:

My ace hardware had no washers bigger then 2" so I'm going to try with the 2"… Hope I don't rip the rubber out….

RESISTANCE AGAINST TYRANNY says:

Man……… You saved my butt big time. I had no idea what that seal was and I've bought two different seals from AutoZone. The kid like usual said it's the same seal on both sides says my computer. Got my YJ front end apart and NOPE…. Wrong seal. Thanks to your video, you saved a lotta guess work. 1000 thumbs up!

Doug W says:

Will this setup work on the drivers side as well?

Nicholas Cook says:

Tried this set-up 3 times today and it will not pull the seal in. I've lubed it and centered it but it just will not work. Ended up messing up the seal. Luckily I bought 2 so I will try again tomorrow. Very frustrating.

Ryan McDonough says:

Thanks for putting together another great video on installing the outer axle seal. I really appreciate the ingenuity with the washer setup.
I can't seem to get mine fully shouldered in the housing though. I am wondering if you have ever encountered getting stuck flush with the tube opening at the shift motor housing with a millimeter of shiny machined metal gleaming at you on the wheel side?
Anyone got advice?

john robert says:

Make it look to easy haha. So far I’m two messed up seals trying to install.

Robert McCain says:

Glad I watched your video. New to jeeps and 4×4. Didn't even realize mine was broke. The metal tubes for vacuum were broken right off. Bought a new one will be here on the 29th. Thanks for the video.

Chico Deluxe says:

Hi Dale, yours is one of the absolute best Jeep channels on youtube. Very well done with clear explanations and easy to understand and follow along. I'm currently watching your 4.0 rebuild series. Can you recommend any books or learning materials for rebuilding the 4.0? I'm a noob with very little experience but I'm slowly rebuilding my TJ and my ultimate goal is to rebuild my 4.0. The problem is there's so much information out there I don't really know where to start.

Gordon GMan says:

Enjoyed the DIY

Allan Mills says:

Good job explaining everything. Almost seems easier to create a gadget in the actuator housing instead, but my seal is still good, so I won’t be doing that. Always enjoy watching your method. Keep it up.

LZDEN says:

nicely done dale.excellent video…you and the family stay safe.

Michael Quillen says:

My son bought a YJ (4 banger) last month and we have already started to fix 'er up. We've watched several of your videos already and think they are top rate as we map out a plan to make this Jeep "hunting ready" this coming October.

I hear you about having a second jack stand! About 18 years ago, while working on my old Dodge Power Wagon, we had a jack stand fail. A stroke of luck (and adrenalin) allowed me to roll out quickly and pull my son (then 12 years old) out from under the rig! We've used back-up support ever since.

Thanks again for your great videos!

RIPSAW says:

Too cool. I had to replace the universe on driver side. My 12 point bolts that held bearing hub up were big time tight. So was the bearing hub in yoke.
I can imagine in a rust state, those 12 point bolt heads could be a nightmare.

Also, differential on back does not have a drain. For a 4X4, a sad cost saving by the maker.

As a side note, I was replacing rear tail pipe and needed to get track bar down to get it in. Never was able to break that silly torx bolt. Front is hex. So go figure. I shimmed my front for proper caster and tried it without track bar. I hooked it back since Jeep then felt too loose at speed Did kill some of the low speed bump steer but loose is worst.

Loose actually could have been from toe. Jeep has cheap shackle lift and had 5 deg caster. Needed 3/16 toe in to bring back steering wheel to center. When I added 4 1/2 deg shim, I had kicked back toe to 1/16. Might have been OK if I had made it 1/8.

Jim Whalen says:

Hey, again great video! One question, since the gear oil is milky, shouldn’t you drain all the old and refill with new oil? I would not want to take a chance that something more than water got in.

Jack Collins says:

What are your thoughts about when you put tire under jeep about adding 2×4's maybe a couple rows in a square bolted together for added safety. That's my approach when I get under jeeps.

nowr2run says:

If you had MILKY GEAR OIL I would have changed that also but VERY SMART WAY OF DOING THINGS DALE SIR. You were very safe with 2 jack stands, a tire plus the jack. Anything else & it gets in the way of doing your job. DAMN NICE JOB DALE, DAMN NICE, KEEP THE FAMILY SAFE SIR.

dan pawlowsky says:

That was very sleek, most machanics would coppy that procedure if they were smart.

Hal says:

Don't put the seal in backwards!… Lol

lucky1dawg1 says:

Your still not safe really- 3 jack stands would be safer

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