Instrument output jacks can become intermittent or stop working all together over time and with extended use. Follow the easy steps to change out your output jack in your Fender guitar or bass….
Instrument output jacks can become intermittent or stop working all together over time and with extended use. Follow the easy steps to change out your output jack in your Fender guitar or bass….
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
Ouch! He surely doesn’t know how to solder…
Good demo! I would have covered the finish area when soldering. Working
on guitars can be fun! If it is a crafted in China issue, say a prayer
first!
I wouldn’t poke the wire into hot solder, I’d crimp the wire onto the clean
terminal, then apply the solder. I’d also protect the guitar finish from
any solder drips – yeah, it probably won’t happen, but if it does, you’ll
be super pissed!
But here’s a money saving tip. Most likely, (at least in my personal
experience), the only problem with the jack is that the long prong that
makes contact with the jack tip, needs to be slightly bent to restore a
tight contact with the jack tip.
whats the washer for? is it necessary?
That’s just wrong about guitar pots and a 50 watt iron. Think back to how
many years people soldered those things with 100/140 watt Weller soldering
guns! Guitar pots are old tech going back to vacuum tube days. Of course if
you’re talking about pots on a pc board like for EMG pickups then that
might be a problem. I used to do this type of stuff for a living so I know
what I’m talking about.
Great to see videos like this!!! What gauge solder did you use? Just
curious.
Fender is an American company so they are pronouncing it with the US
pronunciation. Use Google for more info.
That’s the thing – you have to know what you’re working with. The only time
to worry about what you’re talking about is with surface mount components.
Regular leaded components, switches, connectors, etc. – dwell time and
temperature don’t really matter. Most solder used in electronics anymore
isn’t all that high of a heat melting point. And NEVER EVER use acid core
solder like plumber’s solder on electronics!
Great video, saved for future reference but, for gods’ sakes, pronounce the
Ls.
@rev absolutely. Only a total noob would soldier over top of the finish w
no protection. He’d be history in our shop the 1st time I saw that.
Fiiiiiiirrrsssssttttt!!!!!!!!
What you describe is called tinning the tip of the iron. You can then add
extra solder to the component on the opposite side of where you’re touching
the iron to the component to finish the connection as you’ll never have
enough solder from a tinning operation to finish the operation. Where one
damages components is not too much heat but too much time of iron heating
the parts being soldered. Use a high temp iron for a short amount of time.
NASA certified solderer here.
Cool
Neither is the “H” in the word “asshat.”
Which tele model is that?
What was that, a sodering ironin…?
Also you should really cover up the guitar, you’ll damage the finish if the
solder drips.
great info
Most guitar pots don’t respond well to even a couple seconds with a 50W
iron… trust me. Thanks for the tips, regards from the UK!
Use switchcraft jacks.
Yes, tin the iron first then heat from the opposite side. But you can
damage components from using a hot iron for even a short amount of time –
especially if the components you’re using have a high heat conductivity (or
relatively low max temperature) combined with a high melting point solder.
yes it is google it
Real MEN carve words like “psychobilly” in the finish w/ soldering irons.
Please click Thumbs Up to this comment if you agree.
Depends on what country you live in and in what part of said country. In
the US and most other countries the ‘L’ in solder is silent. The only ones
I’ve heard that say it the same as the ‘L’ in ‘holder’ are some Brits.
The Fender Factory Tour videos show none of this “soldiering protection” of
which you speak of. They are may have green-card protection, but no rags,
canopies, cardboard, Roman Legion Soldiers’ Shields – none of that. Just
sayin’ okay I’m just sayin’…
It is if you’re American. Silly British acting like they invented the
language or something.
Also you shouldn’t hold the soldering iron on the components, it can damage
them by heating them too much. You should put solder on the tip of the iron
then onto the wire.
I was talking about active pickups, yes. Thanks again for the insight!
Am I the only one thinking this could be way easier? I know it’s not THAT
hard of a job to solder and stuff, but I think the future of everything is
accessibility. I’m thinking that guitar electronics should be connected
with simple sliding connector pins, so you can easily swap out any part
without a hassle. Want new pickups? Plug the old ones out & plug new ones
in in under a minute. Good idea?
The ‘L’ in solder isn’t silent.