How to replace the starter on your 4th/5th gen Maxima. 5MT shown, 4AT is all but identical.
1995-2001 Nissan Maxima: Starter replacement
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How to replace the starter on your 4th/5th gen Maxima. 5MT shown, 4AT is all but identical.
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I’m a newbie when it comes to mechanics but I figured out how to
disassemble the Maf sensor and the hosing. When it comes to
detaching/removing the green sensors I have a hard time. i.e. the Hitachi
boost sensor that is connected to the air intake housing i’ve been trying
to squeeze it out, pull it but it just wont come out. How the hell do you
get those damn things out???
Would a 4th generation starter interchange with a 5generation car ? I have
a 2000 automatic
@HeavenzBreaker If I remember correctly, one of the ears on the starter has
a steel alignment dowel that goes into the hole on the trans housing,
corrosion there will make it very hard to remove. Pry it out slowly side to
side, see if you can make any headway there.
The Small Wire You Disconnected From The Starter Where Does The Other End
Lead To??
’95-’99 Maxima, same chassis as the ’96-’99 i30.
can your starter just go like that one day? my car was working fine i
changed my tranny and now its very hard to start the car what can be the
problem? maybe i need to check if the start is on right maybe the washer
wasnt on the car?
help i just replace my starter in my 96 maxima , and now grinds & won’t
start, i have a new battery and rebuilt starter, i thing it may be bad or
they give me the wrong strarter
There are several different types of starters available (9, 10, and 11
tooth IIRC). The 11 tooth should be the most recent and the ‘best’ version.
Also note that reman starters can be a hit or miss type of deal, I’ve had
bad luck with them across many different vehicles.
Great video…i need to do this on my car…if i go to the junk yard how do
i know this part isnt blown from the yunk yard.
The air filter box and intake hoses come off fairly easily, but I did
realize after filming that unlike most, I’ve removed the vacuum gallery and
several other things over the years to make maintenance easier. You’ll
really need a ratchet (likely a breaker bar) to break those bolts loose for
the first time. Steel bolts in an aluminum housing, exposed to road salt…
Yes, they’re identical. Even come up with the same part number in FAST.
Through the clutch interlock (5MT) or inhibitor (4AT) relay to the ignition
switch. B/W between switch and relay, B/Y (5MT) or B/R (4AT) from relay to
starter.
You could disassemble it there and check brush and commutator wear, then
check continuity on the solenoid windings, but that’s a bit involved. If
you have access to a 12v battery (with decent current capacity) you could
bench test it to be sure it works. Just connect ground to the housing, B+
to the battery input terminal, then jump the battery input to the trigger
wire (‘S terminal’).
i got everything off, including bolts except the starer. you seemed to just
“grab” it out of the block with ease but mines still stuck after the bolts
come out. help pls
@TezHailu Those can be a major PITA, even when you know what you’re doing.
You need to push the green tab directly in until it locks in in the forward
position, then the connector will release. When you push it back into
place, the green tab will unlock and secure the connector in place.
A starter can just die randomly, but a lot of the time you’ll be noticing
symptoms before it finally stops working. In your case, I’d expect that
it’s not getting a good ground connection due to corrosion on the
bellhousing-block mating surface. These vehicles tend to have ground issues
concerning the starter after the trans has been removed.
what year of Nissan Maxima does the 4th generation fall under?
How’d you remove the hoses that are all in the way? I tried doing this but
got stuck removing the 14 and 17mm bolts because I don’t have a ratchet and
there’s quite a bit of hoses in the way
You can just run a ground wire from one of the starter mounting bolts to
either the engine side of the factory ground wire, or directly to the
negative post of the battery. Dropping and sanding the trans is the proper
way, running a new wire is the practical way.