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It’s your hydraulic timing chain tensioner
Did you ever get this fixed? If so, what was the cause/fix? We have a
2007 Santa Fe with the 2.7 making that same sound, with a check engine
light on.
OHC engine can also have lifters in them,the Chevy LS1 in my car however
has pushrods but had the same problem as your Hyundai (that noise would
only start after driving for 10 minutes ,from cold at 100 km/h or 60mph in
the US),I put that Liqui Moly engine flush in with the old oil when the
engine was warm (I’d just use 1/2 a litre of diesel if there was a next
time) then idled the engine for 15 minutes with the engine flush added to
the old oil, drained the old oil out then replaced the oil & filter ,then
took the car for a drive when the noise went away.
I think what can happen when sludge accumulates in the oil galleries, that
blocks off the oil passages in the hydraulic lifter as that crap will not
pass through the lifters but good quality,clean & thin oil will,I’ve heard
of people using a thicker oil which has caused this problem,also people who
have had lifters changed and that didn’t fix the problem.
If the engines oil pressure with a warm engine is good then the next place
to start is by flushing the engine & replacing the oil before replacing
engine parts.
Hoping to find the answer here – ours is doing the same thing – a 2007….
sounds like a dang helicopter is landing sometimes!
hey dont mind the pic im her husband but I am a real mechanic it is the
lifters, you need oil treatment or just replace the lifter that is making
the noise or call me 312 8578821
BIG END BEARING MATE!
try changing to Amsoil synthetic motor oil rate #1, you change it ones a
year and it keeps the engine clean Amsoil.com
My car is making the same noise. Two different mechanics said that it’s the
engine valve
exhaust leak near the cylinder..
any luck??? I’m having the same problem with mine!! I’m being told it may
be the lifters, but I’m also being told there is a chance when I had to
have my rod bearings replaced due to an extreme oil leak, that there is a
chance the fuel pressure wasn’t applied correctly and if that’s the case,
that I’ll need to replace my whole engine…. I’m worried sick
Some people will also flush the engine with Mystery Marvel Oil (found @ you
local parts store) Choose you engine oils carefully many do not have
detergents in them and your engine will eventually build up with carbons
and will lose oil pressure and die..
@Marc Baldry I think it was 10w30 when I was done:)
@rcbryantjr Thanks for all the tips man, it’s not throwing any codes so I
figured it would be a bad idea to even go get the codes checked. I have a
scanner for my shop. I have been noticing some differences in changing the
weight of the oil. Added some cleaner and change the oil and it seems to be
knocking way less. Any idea what it might be based on that information.
I have been noticing some differences in changing the weight of the oil to
a lesser weight:) It took me letting the pan drain all the way tell there
was no more oil leaking out. I just let it drip dry. Then we drained it
again and put the thicker weight and it slowly got better:) I hope that
help you bro:(
Kinda like eating junk food all the time clog up you arteries and cardiac
arrest is @ your door step…. Any time you add cleaners to your engine it
is expected for the carbons to loosen up and go to you oil pan and will be
pulled back through your oil filter. So you should drain the oil and change
the filter not long after it is flushed..
it at least sounds like its in the top end. you probably have a spring in a
lifter that is broke. if that is a 3.5 L it probably has a timing belt(s)
which would be long over due at 140k unless you have changed them changed
already. you might want to kill two birds with one stone. good luck
Matt, I have been a mechanic for over 25 years. That sounds more like a rod
hitting the oil pan. Is the noise louder toward the top of the engine or
bottom? It could be a number of things. I would just have to see it in
person to tell you for sure. You can have it put on the code tester at Auto
Zone or Oreilly’s for free. If there is a knock you should have a code from
the knock sensor.
@dwiggs77 The timing was done not to long ago. How hard is it to change out
that spring? I am limited on how much I know with cars:)
If it is extremely dirty than redo the flush again.. If you can look @ the
oil fill cap and see build up carbons on it or in the valve cover it
probable needs it.Good luck and best wishes..
@Marc Baldry I changed the oil to a thinner weight first then we brought it
back up to 10w30 I believe. The thinner weight gets into the cracks and
crevices a lot better and gives any cleaners you would add a chance to move
throughout the whole engine. Maybe a 5w30. I am in no way in mechanic so
take the advice I give you with a grain of salt.
@FrankANiti Thanks for tip bro!!
Sell ur car not worth it maintenace. 150k is too many miles
Right, not a pushrod motor. No lifters!
Then do an oil change
@Ray-Ian. I have the same issue with my car. Could you tell me what it was?
I need to get this fixed soon. Many thanks!
@xgra720 can you post a video of where to locate that hose?
@dizzlesmom First off, don’t worry be happy:) Second, the stuff that people
have said on here I have applied and it worked for our engine. Maybe take a
video of your car so that people can check it out?
** oil pressure
Hi Lara, sorry for the very late reply. So, if you have a very old car with
high mileage (150K+) then you’re better off buying another car. My car is
92′ w/ 225k, all I did to fix the knocking was upgrade my engine oil to
5w30 to 10w40 castrol gtx high mileage/ oil filter. drive for 5-10 miles
and see how it goes.
I agree, it does sound like the lifters:) I am happy to hear Lucus is
making a lifter lube. The other stuff they make can gum up engines so I
will need to read the bottle to see if they even have an engine oil
detergent in it. I do thing it needs the lube but I think a cleaning of
whats there is in order. What do you think?
Thanks Joe:)
so what you did ? did u fix it ?
Modern engines are designed to run 5W20. Nothing wrong with “lighter oils”
they oil better when the engine is cold. All oils have the consistency of
water at operating temperature but the viscosity remains. ALWAYS use
synthetic, especially with high mileage.
I have a 03 focus zx3, my local dealership has a 04 Santa Fe 3.5 L in great
condition but it also makes this ticking noise. The Manager told me it is
the Lifters. I’m interested in the vehicle and they would probably trade me
out right but I don’t know if that’s too risky or not. Wouldn’t I need to
have the head taken off and replace the lifters which would be a good
amount of money I assume. ( not a car guy by any means lol but yeah that’s
what I was told.
It’s a over head cam so it does not!!!! Have lifters so its with a timing
belt or miss adjusted clearances and never go to a liter oil go to a
heavier oil
@Rey-Ian Transfiguracion That sucks:(
Sounds like a clogged hydrolic lifter…. Lucus Lifter Lube…Add it to
your oil and drive for awhile… Those engines are pretty common for that
issue… Can be found @ Walmart or parts store Check it out… Good luck!
how did you fix it??? i have an ’03 and has the exact same noise! it’s
driving me crazy and am thinking it’s going to cost a fortune to repair.
It sounds like one lifter collapsed
I just had the similar problem with my 1992 nissan pathfinder. It’s fine
when I first start than it has a ticking than knocking noise when it warms
up. I called it BLACK DOWN HAWK DOWN just because its super load noise. I
Had many mechanics look at and had many different replies. and one mechanic
said it may cost me $2k to fix bec it could be internal. I changed the oil
twice using diff grades, even used Seafoam. Reply me if you still have the
same issue, I’ll let you know how I fixed mine.
Is this the 2.7 or the 3.5 ?
@John Miller Thanks bro:)
It sounded like a sparkplug was loose also !
My wife’s car just the same, ’02 Santa Fe 140K+, knocks after warm up. What
finally worked for you? Thanks