DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2

DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2

2008 Hyundai Elantra timing belt change video. DIY video part 2 of 2.

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zeek3177 says:

after how many miles should u change it? ive heard after 60k miles

ThePariss333 says:

I see your comment has long time ago, but I took my car to Hyundai Dealer and they don’t replace pulley, tensioner or water pump and every thing is warranty and cover until 100.000 miles if I did it in the Dealer, so I took it to the Dealer and if some thing happen they have to respond and fix it. Like you said: its the most important belt in a car.

steezs says:

For Automatics you can’t hold the crank still with Park or the brakes because it has a torque converter, I heard most mechanics just hit it a couple times with a 1/2 inch gun or you can use a chain wrench and wedge on the ground then use a torque wrench or a torque stick and 1/2 gun.

t64169 says:

Great Video, What kind of camera are you using?

Sam Fahda says:

Theres no need for marks if you were a mechanic you would on noticed markings already there

S13Sldewayz says:

Thanks for the walkthrough. I just wanted to see what I was up against in my wife’s 07. Looks pretty simple

Great job!

Erik Gray says:

mvburch, how long did it take you to do this job?

mvburch says:

@Mainbwana What is the type and year model of your vehicle? I just want to make sure that my answer applies to your situation.

Mainbwana says:

mvburch, i am stuck on minute 2:06 of this video. My pulley at the bottom is not easy to take out. I got the bolt out, but the pulley is hardly budging. I do not know how to get it out.

SilentServiceCode says:

4. I *broke* the ground strap bolt off on the engine mounting bracket and pieces of it fell into the timing cover. I had to fish them out with magnets and such. Now I’m trying to find a solution to bolting down the strap. A new bracket is $100 + $0.87 for a new bolt.

SilentServiceCode says:

3. The tensioner in my kit was a static one and less complicated than the OEM one, and will need manual inspection at some point I’m sure.

SilentServiceCode says:

This video accompanied me out the driveway as I did this on my own 2007 Elantra. A few things:

1. You have an editing problem at the end of the first part/beginning of the second part

2. You didn’t replace the timing belt idler pulley. To those that got one of these in their kit, it’s simply a 14mm (or 12mm) bolt that can be reached from below and is a simple change.

mvburch says:

I only remember the one bolt that moves the pulley back and allows you to pull the belt off ofthe air conditioning

steezs says:

for the AC belt did you just loosen that 1bolt or is there a bracket bolt also

steezs says:

for the AC belt you just loosen that one bolt or do you also loosen a bracket bolt also

ThePariss333 says:

The Dealer charge $ 450 to timing belt. they said, it will change the tensioner and timing belt. they dont change water pump if its working right.
If I have to to do it my self, I have to buy several things that will cost almost $ 180 and maybe I will not use it for long time, plus the knowledge I dont have and either practice, I think is better pay,plus hours figure out things, that job is frustrate.,

ThePariss333 says:

Can you help me in understand some thing? if I remove the every thing without moving any parts like : camshaft or crankshaft, can’t I just put the timing belt wherever teeth get, as long the timing belt get inside like the old one? I dont understand why we have to turn the camshaft or crankshaft. the valves and piston is not moving,is stop,so as long the crank and camshaft dont move, we can just put the timing belt and thats it. any thing wrong here?

joehamiltonmusic says:

Hello mvburch, Please forgive my delayed response. I’ve had some log-in issues and I couldn’t get into my account until today… Thanks for allowing me to use a still from your video. I don’t believe I need a higher resolution at this time but it’s nice to have your offer. Regarding my music, many thanks for your kindness and please share as you like. Again, I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I just hope I can log in again after today…
Kindly,
Joe

DreajanaMix says:

Great video…really helped me changing my belt…I must agree…the tensioner is not as easy as it looks for the first timer. Now that I have done it..its easy! Just remember do not pull the pin until after you have the tensioner in position and loosely installed…and the two tangs must be located proper or you will bork them…ask me how I know..lol

mvburch says:

I do not mind if you use a still photo from my video. If you can tell me the still that you need, I could email you a HD quality pic. This was recorded in HD (h.264 compression)and then downgraded for web posting.

joehamiltonmusic says:

Hello mvburch,

Do you mind if I used a “still” from your video as an illustration in a book I’m working on? It would save me some time on having to take the photo myself… Please let me know soon…
Thanks,
Joe

mvburch says:

1.You attach the pulley and have the main bolt loose. 2. Next you use an allen wrench to align the arrow. 3. Next you snug the main bolt with a socket wrench while holding the tensioner in place. 4. Remove the allen wrench and follow up with a torque wrench to set the main bolt. Note that the torque wrench does not cause the tensioner to become misaligned when you tighten.

steezs says:

I was just wondering if you hold the tensioner where the mark is at the same time you torque it cause it didn’t really show anything it just skipped to the part where you used the allen key and the tensioner was just on there and torqued

ottopuppy says:

What a great video!! Hope you find a job.

mvburch says:

The only thing you need to do to tension the timing belt is to use your allen wrench and line up the arrow indicator on the timing belt tensioner then tighten the bolt holding the tension pulley to the engine. See the video at 5min 35 sec. No other adjustments are needed.

steezs says:

Good video I wish you just explained how to tension the timing belt better. Your suppose to inspect the pulleys if it moves freely without any noises and its not leaking grease from the bearing your good to go your just being super safe if you change them at your first timing belt change.

ARMZ0906 says:

I’m not a professional mechanic either. I’m an unemployed mechanical engineering student so I can understand your budget constraints; however, an $18.00 pulley is a bit easier to pay for than a $1500-2000 head rebuild. I’m glad your car is doing well and i hope you make it to the next belt change. I still recommend changing that pulley, $17.63 at rockauto.com Gates P/N T42015.

mvburch says:

If you want to follow the recommendations from Hyundai and professional mechanics? then you should replace all belts, tensioner, idler pully, and water pump to do this repair right. I had to cut corners somewhere due to budget and this is how I chose to do the repair.

mvburch says:

Thank you for the information. As I have stated before, I am not a professional mechanic and if you are then great. I performed this repair 25 thousand miles ago and my car is running great. Maybe I am just lucky!

ARMZ0906 says:

One last bit of info, the timing belt is by far the most important belt in a car with an interference engine; therefore, in the future I highly recommend using the Gates timing belt kit which comes with both pulleys and the belt.

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