I’m having a weird problem with my car, it’s a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee,
and my battery died after sitting for a few days, i replaced the battery
and the terminals because they needed it but when i connected the new
battery it created an ark, the fan came on, the lights came on, and the
horn came on. What do you think, anything come to mind?
looks odd that you dont tin (solder coat) the cable before you join the
two, but if this method works you cant argue with success. You go to the
trouble of talking about right/wrong orientation of the nut without ever
saying why. The final shot of the terminal in the video seems to have the
nut on in what you say is the wrong orientation.
Ah, should have done this!! I got the quick release because everything else
at pep-boys had a diameter to big to get the copper ring lug on. I’m a 19
yr old diy mechanic and replaced the radiator a week into owning the car,
so I’m not doing to bad.
Similar to what I do to welding leads but I keep the heat on after
inserting the cable and then melt a bit more solder onto the leads so that
it wicks into the cable properly.
The thin looking one should be replaced with a real battery terminal. If
your cables are long enough you should be able to do what I did in the
video, but make sure to remove the battery first!
Hey Richard, Seems everyone has an opinion, but can’t back it up with
personal experience. I work as an electrical engineer at the largest
connector and terminal industry in the world. In the electroplating
department, we would always have corrosion with high amperage DC power
connections, even when the terminals are crimped on with hydraulic
crimpers. A few years ago as a test, we started to solder our terminals as
you show, along with heat shrink. No more problems! Thanks Rich for the
video!
My parts supplier gets them for me – he’s the industrial account guy at the
local Advance Auto Parts store. If your parts guy can’t find ’em, he
doesn’t want to help you. Do a search for Pico 0829C 1-2 AWG Crimp or
Solder Straight Barrel Positive Battery Terminal 10 per Package – the parts
store has to buy them ten to a box, and you can get ten of them for $32.
@synapticflow Truckers are the lifeblood of virtually every industry.
Everybody knows that. They’re professional drivers. You’re an amateur by
comparison.
Yes you are right, this is absolutely the best way to repair or fabricate a
cable, Been doing it this way since 1985, and not had one single
comeback…..you got me beat with 1978 though…..LOL You are a smart
mechanic, this i know from my own experience…… Good work sharing with
people who don’t know the right way of doing things..Now they do, I watch
all your uploads, and i can say without a doubt you are a topnotch
mechanic, keep posting please , I enjoy it if no one else does.Neal Ward
Typical schoolboy comment – if this cable had ever given a problem after
the repair your points might make more sense – as it is, the molten rosin
that the copper passes through on the way to the molten solder, which then
permanently bonds to the copper – I started using this method in 1978 and
I’ve never seen a terminal that had to be re-fixed later – the first ones I
did were on giant pipe loaders and cranes, too – LOTS of current flowing
there. Thanks for the comment though.
I agree most large welders have crimped terminals and they crap out after a
few months of hard work, I usually cut the old lug of, strip it clean and
solder new ones on that never fail even using using carbon arc at full amps
they never even get hot, much less actually melt the solder.
I’m not worried about the clamp-style battery terminals or the solder-on
ones. I’m more worried that the guy in the 18-wheeler stays on his side of
the yellow line.
Great instructional..can i ask you..when you melt the rosin solder does the
rosin flux come up to the top..just asking because they sell a liquid flux
for battery connections to coat it with.
I’ve used them both – and since there are more naked connections with the
screw type terminals, well, their failure rate when compared to solder on
terminals ridiculous. Acid corrosion can’t compromise a solder joint like
it can when that silly strap is simply pinching the copper. Good grief!
When I was at the dealership I had literally thousands of cars a year pass
through my service bay – experience is better than opinion.
Well, there are some that are tough – but what we usually do is remove the
battery and work in that space – some of the toughest ones are the cables
leading to batteries that are in the wheel well, but those are also the
terminals that almost NEVER get cleaned until a problem arises – and since
that connection is so important, it’s best to solder whenever possible. A
no-crank problem in on a stormy night in a parking lot is kind of spooky,
especially for women alone.
Nice. My 91 corrolla battery terminal was oxidized to death. I went to
replace my battery and poof the whole terminal broker off. right now the
terminal is just kind of sitting on there (wonder if this would do damage).
How much would a mechanic charge to replace a terminal? Great vid. 5 stars
from me.
){kind=link}
The Right Way to Replace a Battery Terminal: http://youtu.be/y5vkwWuDRGE
phil kuhlenbeck
Awesome video thanks..
whoever took the video is probably better at soldering than taking
videos….made me dizzy.
I’m having a weird problem with my car, it’s a 2000 jeep grand Cherokee,
and my battery died after sitting for a few days, i replaced the battery
and the terminals because they needed it but when i connected the new
battery it created an ark, the fan came on, the lights came on, and the
horn came on. What do you think, anything come to mind?
This 4 minute video has 118,467 views right now… and climbing…
what is picos phone number its not on the net thanks!
Dip the blackened copper in muriatic acid before soldering. 100% clean
copper for a perfect solder.
looks odd that you dont tin (solder coat) the cable before you join the
two, but if this method works you cant argue with success. You go to the
trouble of talking about right/wrong orientation of the nut without ever
saying why. The final shot of the terminal in the video seems to have the
nut on in what you say is the wrong orientation.
Ah, should have done this!! I got the quick release because everything else
at pep-boys had a diameter to big to get the copper ring lug on. I’m a 19
yr old diy mechanic and replaced the radiator a week into owning the car,
so I’m not doing to bad.
?Where can I buy the solder-type terminals? No body around here sells
them…
Thanks.
Similar to what I do to welding leads but I keep the heat on after
inserting the cable and then melt a bit more solder onto the leads so that
it wicks into the cable properly.
Soldering is great if you can take the cable out of the hood. But a lot of
the time, the cable connects to a very difficult location to access.
yep…. that’s right.
The thin looking one should be replaced with a real battery terminal. If
your cables are long enough you should be able to do what I did in the
video, but make sure to remove the battery first!
thank you very helpful, cheers
Just wondering but typically where would the battery terminal connect at?
I’m having issues with mine on a 93 toyota paseo that’s why I’m asking
A very good demonstration.
“I like to have as much shinninny as I can there, doncha see.” Love it.
Thanks so much for the help.
I don’t like thoughs clamp ones either man.
Hey Richard, Seems everyone has an opinion, but can’t back it up with
personal experience. I work as an electrical engineer at the largest
connector and terminal industry in the world. In the electroplating
department, we would always have corrosion with high amperage DC power
connections, even when the terminals are crimped on with hydraulic
crimpers. A few years ago as a test, we started to solder our terminals as
you show, along with heat shrink. No more problems! Thanks Rich for the
video!
Yes… Acid core solder is only used for jobs like repairing radiators.
My parts supplier gets them for me – he’s the industrial account guy at the
local Advance Auto Parts store. If your parts guy can’t find ’em, he
doesn’t want to help you. Do a search for Pico 0829C 1-2 AWG Crimp or
Solder Straight Barrel Positive Battery Terminal 10 per Package – the parts
store has to buy them ten to a box, and you can get ten of them for $32.
Good advice, mkema!
Thanks. Good Video. V. Helpful.
How did he remove the old terminal? Did he just cut it off?
LOL…credit where credit is due !
@synapticflow Truckers are the lifeblood of virtually every industry.
Everybody knows that. They’re professional drivers. You’re an amateur by
comparison.
Very informative and detailed video, thanks a lot!
my positive of battery seems easy to be covered with rust how to solve this
problem?
Good video 🙂
where can i buy the assortment of solder ends i need them pronto
734-585-2268
Yes you are right, this is absolutely the best way to repair or fabricate a
cable, Been doing it this way since 1985, and not had one single
comeback…..you got me beat with 1978 though…..LOL You are a smart
mechanic, this i know from my own experience…… Good work sharing with
people who don’t know the right way of doing things..Now they do, I watch
all your uploads, and i can say without a doubt you are a topnotch
mechanic, keep posting please , I enjoy it if no one else does.Neal Ward
harbor freight like 6 bucks
Typical schoolboy comment – if this cable had ever given a problem after
the repair your points might make more sense – as it is, the molten rosin
that the copper passes through on the way to the molten solder, which then
permanently bonds to the copper – I started using this method in 1978 and
I’ve never seen a terminal that had to be re-fixed later – the first ones I
did were on giant pipe loaders and cranes, too – LOTS of current flowing
there. Thanks for the comment though.
I agree most large welders have crimped terminals and they crap out after a
few months of hard work, I usually cut the old lug of, strip it clean and
solder new ones on that never fail even using using carbon arc at full amps
they never even get hot, much less actually melt the solder.
The right way to do it lol
I’m not worried about the clamp-style battery terminals or the solder-on
ones. I’m more worried that the guy in the 18-wheeler stays on his side of
the yellow line.
Well, the flux is floating on top of the solder about 1/8 inch thick – the
copper has to go through it on the way in. But thanks for the comment!
Great instructional..can i ask you..when you melt the rosin solder does the
rosin flux come up to the top..just asking because they sell a liquid flux
for battery connections to coat it with.
You can get one at Lowe’s or Walmart for about ten bucks.
Good points, Scott – thanks.
I’ve used them both – and since there are more naked connections with the
screw type terminals, well, their failure rate when compared to solder on
terminals ridiculous. Acid corrosion can’t compromise a solder joint like
it can when that silly strap is simply pinching the copper. Good grief!
When I was at the dealership I had literally thousands of cars a year pass
through my service bay – experience is better than opinion.
right on, thanks for the video! very helpful.
Well, there are some that are tough – but what we usually do is remove the
battery and work in that space – some of the toughest ones are the cables
leading to batteries that are in the wheel well, but those are also the
terminals that almost NEVER get cleaned until a problem arises – and since
that connection is so important, it’s best to solder whenever possible. A
no-crank problem in on a stormy night in a parking lot is kind of spooky,
especially for women alone.
Nice. My 91 corrolla battery terminal was oxidized to death. I went to
replace my battery and poof the whole terminal broker off. right now the
terminal is just kind of sitting on there (wonder if this would do damage).
How much would a mechanic charge to replace a terminal? Great vid. 5 stars
from me.