This set can be a very nice addition to your shop press. Amazon link HERE: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031FPH8G/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&cam…
This set can be a very nice addition to your shop press. Amazon link HERE: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031FPH8G/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&cam…
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Thanks for a most informative video. The trick for getting the hub off is
well explained too. Much better with the video than well intended
explanations found posted on the forums.
im having a really hard time reinstalling the collar on the intermediate
shaft…I cant get the shaftin far enough to slide the collar in to the
whole. and if I do it before putting the ring gear back in, I can get the
shaft far enough out of the way to clear the bearing! Help!
You’re welcome!
you have been a damned big help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! im going to put in a locker
after all…. THANK YOU!!!!!!! was feeling kinda lazy.. lol
You realize Chrysler doesn’t make the diffs? They are made by Dana, who
supply most manufacturers with diffs/driveshafts
thanks for taking the time and making the vids! good stuff !
Thanks, Brian. I’ve got a Z71 Suburban with a bad from differential. Even
though your’s is very different, it’s helpful to see how you do these. The
photography turned out well.
@dieselboybc Thank you!
Brian, wondering what the name is of the part you use on your press that
supports the bearing from both sides with the bolt through it to make it
adjustable. I am planning on building my own press, but would need to
purchase that support thing, but since don’t know its name, having hard
time finding any info/pricing on it. Great video btw, I’m ramping up to
tackle the rear dif on my truck shortly.
Brian if you ever have a cup race you cant get in behind to get out you may
know this but take your welder and weld short bead on it and it will fall
out.
Something is hanging up. Check for scoring or other obstructions.
It could be a failed bearing, or not enough crush on the sleeve.
Thanks for this! I gotta get on my diffs on my Dakota, this is a great
“prep” video before I tackle it. Thanks again!
Edbassmaster is a genius!
Yet another super awesome video! Keep up the great work Brian!
old Dana’s do not use a crush sleeve. I would see if you can get a crush
sleeve eliminator as that is the cause of all that bearing damage. just did
the same repair on my 10.25 ford using a yukon master kit and a 9″ crush
sleeve eliminator when I installed the Grizzly Locker.
Ha ha you said “Bardle doo”…must be a fan of “Mumbles”…
i was told that danas dont use crush sleeves?
Great use for the old bearings brian !! The magnet idea is a good , I put
one in my dana 44 and it does catch the small metal particles. Thanks for
the vid …
@TheTexasCoder You’re welcome. Good luck!
Is it too wide? Is it crooked? Is it not lubed? Are your bearing races
parallel?
When I put it in, one race will go in straight, the other always becomes
askew. Don’t know how else to describe it. It all goes together fine
outside the axle. It also wants to fall back out, and it’s hard to get the
races, U-straps, and bolts perfectly lined up with one hand while holding
the heavy carrier in place with the other.
Do you have a video or could you tell me how to replace the front wheel
bearings in a 79 chevy pickup 4×4 ?? it has 38.5 mickey thompsons,
Would just marking the pinion nut position, replacing the seal, and
reinstalling in the same position have any repercussions on the rear of a
f250?
Brian, one of the most important parts was setting the Pinion. Bearing
preload with the crush washer, did you use the old one? Maybe that’s
another video. Overall, fantastic job, folks can learn a lot if they pay
attention.
I’m not sure how that tool you have the link for, could be used to press
off the pinion bearings and crush sleeve though. By searching hub race
remover though, I found the actual name for the part..a split plate bearing
remover, but it runs at least $80 online plus shipping…ouch!