In this video, I demonstrate how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors in a 2003 Honda CR-V. This car had a seized caliper on the passenger side after I …
In this video, I demonstrate how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors in a 2003 Honda CR-V. This car had a seized caliper on the passenger side after I …
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Thank you very much for this and other videos or yours. Very detailed
instruction. Very specific. Very informative. Very helpful. Really
appreciate your time and efforts of making the video and your willingness
to share it. It is contributors like you who make YouTube a pleasure to
watch and resource to turn to. Thank you again. Please keep up your great
work.
Great Video, is this an AWD? Any difference on an 06 Element EX AWD?
Thanks for the video. It is greatly appreciated by someone like myself who
only does his own brakes sporadically.
Great Video. when you apply the brake quiet grease, does it get applied to
both sides of the shims? thanks again, will attempt on my 04 tomorrow.
Excellent presentation. Explanation short, sharp & straight to the point.
Easy to understood theory & practical. Double thumbs up to you for your
very useful info & tips. You are Professor Genius Sir David Einstein of
modern mechanical engineers. :-)
I found this on ebay what you think about it ? And dose it the same thing
for the front brake ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-KIT-Reliance-OE-REPLACEMENT-Brake-Rotors-Plus-Ceramic-Pads-C1896-/111004705747?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CModel%3ACR-V&hash=item19d86563d3&vxp=mtr
Thanks for the excellent video. Just curious what brand pads you recommend?
Did you go with a aftermarket or OEM? Thanks
First , what is the kind of grease you applyed many time on your video ?
And do you have a recommandation of web site for buying parts ?
rubber plug. e brake adjustment on bottom of e brake drums
I use a torque wrench when I rebuild components such as engines, rear
axles, etc. And I always use the torque wrench on the wheels. Most of the
time it’s just a hassle to set it and torque every individual bolt, plus
it’s impossible to fit in tight places because the torque wrench is so big.
You just end up getting a feel for “tight” after a while
Thanks for your video and reply. I wish you well!
I’ve used the screwdriver method many times, it works great for a fixed
caliper. It doesn’t take much force to push the piston in and since this
piston is 1/4″ thick steel, you really won’t hurt it by using the clamp, as
long as you don’t force it once it’s bottomed out. But I would rather use
the clamp on the pad or the screwdriver method for things like Chrysler
minivans that have phenolic (plastic) pistons, because they crack really
easily. Great advice, thank you for posting!
The fronts have exactly the same procedure, the front brakes are a little
bit bigger than the rears, since they do more work, and they have a much
wider vented rotor for dissipating heat. On the fronts though, turn the
steering wheel all the way to one side so that the caliper faces outward on
the side you are working on, it makes removing the caliper and mounting
bracket a lot easier
Great advice, that would work well too, but since I was replacing the
rotors anyway, the good ole BFH makes quick work of a stuck on rotor. Plus
for a dealership technician working on a flat rate system, the hammer
method takes very minimal time versus pressing the rotors off with bolts,
the faster you get done, the sooner you can work on another job to make
more money.
I assume that the front brake are the same as the back? Are there any
distinguishable differences?
Thanks, I’ve never had this happen before, it’s driving me nuts. I’ll check
everything again.
Also, I had a HELL of a time getting off one of my front rotors. This video
saved me: you tube dot com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs Be sure to use grade 8 bolts
🙂
Also, thanks for taking your time to put all the torque specs down, I know
that some people like to use the torque wrench on every nut and bolt, and I
really can’t blame them for not wanting to skip or abbreviate steps along
the way
Before trying to remove the rotors make sure the parking brake cables are
slacked off. Instead of using a pry bar to remove a stuck rotor there are
two M8 tapped holes in the rotor designed for removing it. Spray a little
WD40 in the tapped holes and around the area where the rotor contacts the
center hub. You may need to clean the holes first with an M8 tap. Then
screw an M8 bolt into each hole. Tighten them down a half to one turn
alternately to draw the rotor off the center hub.
Make sure that the brake pads, brake caliper, and mounting bracket are all
installed correctly. Also, make sure that the rotor is installed correctly
and that it is the correct rotor. to be honest, I’ve never heard of this
problem occurring before
Hi I have 2002 crv automatic , and it shakes sometime on speed of 70 km.
then if I stop the shake will go away.
Not familiar with Hondas – but I believe that rubber plug fills the access
hole for getting to the star wheel adjuster of the e-brake.
You are correct, I found that out later, thanks
Its a collosal bad idea to use your fingers direct contact with grease. Use
a brush, you are exposing your self to cancer….
Bacon grease is organic, not petroleum or silicone based, so you should be
ok with touching that with bare hands, but for lubrication purposes, it
would break down under heat and loading, not good for brakes lol
Is the shake only when you’re braking, or does it just shake when you hit
70?