This video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing a choke actuator on Honda small engines. The most common reason for replacing an actuator is if it is damaged or missing.
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All of the information in this choke actuator replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Honda
Tools used: 10mm socket
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@1:15 in the video: "Use small Channel-Lock pliers to help pull the old choke actuator out of the engine. This may require some effort."
That's an understatement, or at least was on my Honda. I have a bunch of Channel-Lock and needle-nose pliers in various sizes. All my regular pliers were too big to actually get a drip on the actuator in that very tight space. With my smaller needle-nose pliers, I could get a grip on the end but couldn't remove the actuator as I pulled. I went to my local Lowe's, and for under $20 got Model 192001 Irwin Vise-Grip 13.25-in Bent Compound Long Reach Pliers that easily extracted it on the first try. Note there are many other Irwin Vise-Grip pliers that will not work as well. You want Model 192001.
Great Video ,easy to follow and results were awesome
First honda should install studs to mount the carburetor and hold it in place with nuts! the engineers really blew it with the thermowax actuator.what a bunch of nonsense.A pull or lever choke works flawlessly.A thermowax actuator REALLY.Definitely destin to fail on every one produced,it really doesn't have to be this complicated.
Does the HRR216VXA have a thermo wax acturator?
What part should I order to attach a manual choke and shitcan the auto choke?
I have the opposite problem, the choke on my Honda engine will not open and it runs very rich for 3-4 minutes until the wax pellet heats up and pushes it open. Is there supposed to be some kind of vacuum operated choke break on this thing?
Come on Honda fix this problem on you engines
Dude… which is the newer part? 16620-Z8D-305 or 16620-Z8D-842?
I have the opposite problem. My hrx217 is difficult to start but once it runs it starts first pull everytime I shut it down? I changed the spark plug and it was good for a coue weeks and now it doing it again?? Any idea?
Thanks appreciate that !
Honda recommends using Hondabond HT sealant to improve heat transfer.
Whats the part number for a new carburetor?
Thanks for posting this. I had to replace the back air filter housing because one of the clips that hold the filter cover broke, and didn't realize the long bolts held the carburetor & choke also. After everything kind of fell out, I could not tell that the choke went between the housing & carburetor. I downloaded the service manual from Honda which was totally useless. Watching this video showed the orientation and I had everything back together & running in 5 minutes!
Thank again!
I'm having a problem with a Honda mower. When I start it it starts fine. But as the choke is siding over and reaches the other side it turns off and this is in a matter of seconds. Please help I dont know what to do with this thing anymore
I won't buy another Honda lawnmower until they rebuild the automatic choke mechanism. It's garbage and everyone I know or have seen online with this type of mower has had this problem.
I think I finally found a solution for my HRR2169VKA. It revs up and down and then dies 60 seconds later, not starting again until cooled off.
Thanks so much for making this video, made replacement of my thermowax actuator pretty easy.
what part number for the HRR 2169VKA thermowax choke actuator? Can I buy this from you? on the actual actuator is number 1320014.
my number is different are they are the same replacements?
Has honda made any changes or recalls this is what's stopping me from buying through hrx217
On my mower, the thermowax needle is pushed out when cold and seems stiff to move. That's not right is it?
Thanks, you make my day. Very helpful.
Very helpful video, thanks. I was having a problem starting the engine, always had to prime the engine with a shot of aerosol carb cleaner before pull starting. So I knew the choke was not working properly. Had no knowledge of this thermowax choke actuator. A note for others who might be having problems with this type of choke system… This little gizmo has some type of adhesive which holds the actuator in the engine block hole, that's why it takes a little effort to remove the actuator. When you grab the actuator with your pliers, grab the outer part of it, not the shiny pin in the center. The pin in my actuator was in the "choke open" position, like totally extended from actuator body. I sprayed the pin heavily with WD-40 and pushed the pin back into the actuator body afterwards. The pin does not slide easily back into the "choke closed" position. I re-installed the actuator and the engine started first pull. The choke has performed perfectly since.
Thanks for the video.
Any tips on knowing when this needs to be done? My mower had to have this replaced last year, and it is giving me some troubles. I'd like to learn how to trouble shoot the actuator myself so I don't have to goto the dealer everytime.