Video demonstrating how to replace the cent sliding door roller on a 3rd generation Honda Odyssey (years 2005-2010). Te procedure for replacing the roller is the same for all model years listed….
Honda Odyssey Center Rail Door Roller Replacement
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Hi Daniel, yes on some Odysseys it can be tight. The trick is to get as
close to the rail as possible when hooking the cables back in. The further
away your hinge roller is from the track the harder it is. It took me a
while to get it in but I did get it in. When you pull on the cables there
should be SOME give that has a feeling of “springiness” to it. If it
doesn’t then you may need to remove the inside panel of the van to
“de-tension the cable”. If it won’t go in do not force it as the cable
drive motor assembly if damaged can cost you a small fortune to replace.
@ Go Gavy – weird that the screws didn’t want to go back in. I truly found
getting that rear cable in a PITA but with enough patience and careful
cable manipulation it will go back in.
@ Ken Sungela – WOW $920 to replace the rollers??! That is madness.
Either you find another dealership or I have to keep making Odyssey repair
videos! Glad you were able to fix your own doors for cheap.
Thank you thank you! Just did this and worked perfect. I have been
wanting to do this repair for a while but the idea of taking the inside
apart to detension has made me put it off for months with an annoying half
shutting beeping door. Finally saw this video without having to do all
that and gave it a shot. I was able to replace in no time. Total time was
only like 40 minute job. 20 minutes trying to free a completely rusted
hinge pin from the old hinge assembly and 20 minutes doing all the rest.
So the only tricky part is the cables. Taking off was no problem. Putting
on I tried once or twice then yelled over to my neighbor and he came and
held it for me and took 10 seconds to snap it back on.
Seriously after a 1/4 can of wd40 and lots of pounding I got the pin free,
so FYI if you run into that have a bolt or something you can use to pound
the pin out and some wd40 or similar.
That was a great video, thanks. My driver side door cable snapped and I
searched for a replacement cable. Apparently you have to buy the whole
power assembley ($450-$650 for the part, not including the install) to
replace a broken cable. I have opted to cut the cable clear and use it as a
regular door; but will replace the worn center hinge in the process. I
could probably replace the cable myself with a proper coated bike cable or
aviation cable but the door works fine and faster without the power option
and cables unattached.
@ Dan Albert – I could’ve done that but that would require me to pop off
the interior panels to gain access to the little latch mechanism that holds
things in place. I opted to do a shortcut which fortunately has worked
great for most.
Thank you so much for your video. I was able to replace my drivers side
center roller yesterday in the sub 20 degree weather. I actually did both
sides but realized after dismantling the passenger side that the dealership
I ordered the parts from had sent me two drivers side assemblies. So in
essence I did both sides yesterday and will do the passenger side again
next week when the part arrives. Your video is saving me $400 in labor
charges since my mechanic still wanted $200 per door even with the part
supplied! Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your video!
Hello, ordered the part off amazon for $32.64, Dorman 924-129 Sliding Door
Roller Right. Watched this great video twice and went to work. I couldn’t
figure out why it was important to use a marker to mark the bracket before
removing, but I am glad I did. Everything was really easy even re-attaching
the tension cables, but the door wouldn’t quite shut all the way. We
noticed the bracket wasn’t lined up with our original marks and sure enough
that was the difference. I would say this took about 45 minutes and is
really easy considering we never work on vehicles. I will say for a pointer
on the tension cables after you remove the bracket from the door, then
manually slide the bracket back down the trac so you can easily see and
work on it. It literally took about 5 minutes to do this part. We stopped
the door in the middle of the trac to start this process also. Thanks a ton
for the video and saving me some $$$.
Thanks, that was great. Wish I had though to look on the tube be for
getting it fixed the first time.
need to fix my door they want charge $800
Thanks for the video. It is well done. The narration and editing are
spot on.
Thanks so much for this! I did both rollers on my 2007 in about an hour and
a half, no problems at all. I also replace the top rollers, as one had bent
just enough from the failed middle roller. Thanks so much for the great
video.
Excellent! Thanks! Like Seth Brandes, I found it fairly simple to put the
cables back together once I moved the whole assembly to the rear of the
van. All I did was hook the front cable, slide the bracket to the rear,
gently use needle nose pliers to pull the rear cable towards the bracket
and had plenty of slack to slip it in the hook. The other tip is when
taking the rail cover off, simply lift it up and out past the window
instead of trying to pull it back along the van.
Adding my notes from performing the job…
Had to replace on both sides. Drivers side hinge pin was fused into the
bracket, also had to use a dremmel to cut apart the piece that gets
disposed of to free up pin.
Found it easier to only open door about a foot before lifting with jack and
removing slider bolts form door. Once bolts were removed was able to slide
the slider towards rear of vehicle giving more room to work with when
removing and reconnecting the slider cables.
So as to not drop cable ends and have to fish them back out found the clips
that the trim piece slip onto were perfect cable holders while swapping the
hinge plate on the roller bracket.
Thanks for the video, removed a lot of the guesswork I would have had to do
had I gone into this venture blind.
Excellent video. The dealer wanted $350+ each to repair the “loose” center
rollers about 1 1/2 yrs ago. They finally bit the dust a week ago, got the
parts for $90- (incl shipping). Changed out both in ~1hr 45mins! Even in
the current 18 degrees F. Thanks for the clear, concise instruction.
Great video, huge help! Saved a small fortune in labor and the job only
took about 45 minutes (some of that was watching the rest of video after
pulling everything apart). Getting the 2nd cable end into the slot was the
hardest part, but only took about 5 minutes and a few dozen select words.
Just wanted to let you know how fortunate you are to have a light colored
Odyssey. Took me a while to find a silver marker that showed up on my
blue/green paint. I can’t imagine getting it back together had I tried to
remove it by just removing the pin, as someone suggested in the comments.
Good idea, but that tiny lock clip would have been lost forever if I had
tried that.
Many thanks!
excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! door roller replacement tutorial. You know
the guys over at HONDA HATE YOU NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have rollers heading out
to replace mine right now. Thanks for the youtube training video, your the
best Daniel
Just did this in over an hour! Thank you!
I followed your video with a genuine Honda part and the door went totally
schizoid. So I turned off the power doors but with the new roller the door
manually closed like silk.The old top rollers were completely missing. I
went to start the van and the battery was dead. I thought it was some
thing left on so I charged the battery and it was really low. After a few
hours the van could start so I turned off the engine and tried the doors
again and all the shaking and nonsense. My wife (?) said ” try it with the
engine running “and the doors were perfect. So what the computer does is
measure total current going to the motor. If the current increases it is a
danger stop signal. A bad battery will drop voltage under load and of
course current will increase triggering the stop signal. Just another thing
to watch out for with sophisticated electronic sensors. There was a dry
cell in the battery so after a new one was installed there was a mad search
for the radio anti theft code. Thanks again.
one thing I did different was to leave the hinge on the door and pop the
c clip and knock out the pin. Much easier not to worry about nonalignment
as the roller was a perfect match and I could also lay the cables and
roller assembly upside down flush against the rail. I just pulled the
roller and cable all the way to the back and popped them right off and on.
Then just align the pin and the hinge gently and bash it back in and top
off with a c clip Thanks again
+piercedasian Thank you so much for the video! Your walkthrough was perfect
and allowed me to follow each step along with you. My wife may actually
allow me to continue to work on her car!
A couple of items to note:
1) I also found that the closer the nylon rollers were to the slot,
rotating the bracket to keep it as close to it’s natural position, the
easier it was to install the cables. Or I just have tiny fingers.
2) One thing to add to the preparation section: When you are marking the
half circle cut-outs with a marker, you may want to add some additional
duct tape or masking tape to the inside of the door panel around the
bracket with the 12mm bolts. I ended up scratching up the beveled portion
of the inside of the door while I was removing/reinstalling the cables.
Once again, thank you for your excellent tutorial Pierce!
Thanks for the post, I did it with a $50 dollar part from advanced auto
parts and about 25 minutes. No idea how much the dealer would have cost
but i’m guessing it would have been > $200.
Was just quoted $371 to replace that same roller on my driver’s side
door! You are a rock star man! Thank you very much for taking the time to
do this video and share it. Seriously awesome!
Thanks for sharing… I’m off to replace mine tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for making this! I’m gonna try it.
Thanks for the video. Replaced my door roller today and it worked out
great. The dealer charged me $245 for the other door, which I had to pay
because the motor gave out on me with the door fully opened! Glad to save
the money this time.
Great video. Replaced same roller. Tip to save time; remove hinge from door
to install wire easily. Good job!
Quick tip…..it is easier to get the slider rail cover off if you close
the door almost all the way, then you do not have to worry or fight through
the small gap between the door and the van. Another note to mention is
that once the door is on the jack and the bracket off the door, you can
slide the door towards the closed position to allow you room to get the
bracket off of the cable.
Thank you very much for this video. My local Honda dealership (Nanuet, NY)
said $920 + tax to replace both middle rollers. Bought the part for $55 +
30 min. of labor and done. My left side door gets used 4x more than the
right, so only had to do one side. This is the second time this dealer
tried to over bill me on a simple repair job.
Great video! This made it really easy to plan out how to replace my hinge,
which was missing both rollers! The pin was very corroded and no amount of
hammer and chisel would free it. So I had to demo the inner sleeve with a
carbide cut-off wheel on my Dremel tool to get it free, but other than
that, it was pretty straight forward. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this video. I had no problems. I went through the window
to attach front cable first and carefully lowered roller in place and had
someone assist me pulling cable from the back while attaching rear cable.
I’m sure I saved at least 300 bucks from a trip to the dealer!
Very good video and good comments with tips. It’s took for me around 30 min
to replace it. Thanks a lot !
Thanks for this great video. It saved me a lot of money. Also shop around
cus the dealer part vary as much as $30 difference. The service and part
was going to cost @$300 and I did it with for $60 in 30min without a cable.
Hardest part was getting the tail light out and somehow the screws didn’t
want to go back in.
Great video, but please note that (on my 2005) even after roller
replacement, door worked fine manually, but using powered option resulted
in failing to close completely. and would fail to open, SO THE FIX WAS TO
PULL THE 40AMP FUSE UNDER THE HOOD (there are 2 and I believe it was the
one on the left facing engine), start up vehicle, stop vehicle, reinsert
40a fuse, and door magically worked as intended. FYI – Before replacement,
the drivers side sliding door would always power open or shut, but just
rubbed paint on near gas cap, that is why we replaced roller assembly.
That tension wire is a PITA, but in my frustration I discovered a VERY
simple method to avoid my kids learning new choice “words”. Position the
wire so that it is almost all the way back, but move it forward about an
inch or two. Take painters (blue) tape and wrap it around the rear wire
just in front of where it enters the car, wrap at least 10 times to give it
some girth and press it on nice and tight. Use 1.5-2″ tape so there is a
lot of surface area contacting the wire or the tape will slide on the
wire. Gently pull the wire back and the tape will hit the rear port where
it goes into the car and grab and stop. Now it will remain stationary and
give you slack to easily slip the replacement part on! Once its on, roll
it forward an inch, unwind and remove the tape and you’re good to go with
completing the reinstall of the trim panel etc. I hope this helps ease
some of that grief we’ve all seem to be having and there is no need to rip
apart the interior of the car and mess with the tension! Enjoy!
Great video, thanks for sharing. Just ordered the parts today – you’ve
inspired me to try a DIY repair, which I almost never do! Stupid question
but why did you mark the inside of the door with felt pen when presumably
the bolt location would ensure the part properly lines up? I know I’m
missing something here…
Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Thanks.
I had to replace the middle bracket completely and when I did I let the
wire slid into the van to far. I can’t seem to pull it back out to make
both sides of the wire reach the bracket. Is there an easy way for me to
get more slack on that cord? Should I pull off the inside panel? Then
what?
Thanks.
I have the LX model odyssey and as I’ve tried to buy a replacement part
they all say they are for power doors only and I have manual. I can’t seem
to locate the right part, any good resources for parts?