just finished changing it. You made a good point, going to re-tighten the
bolts tomorrow. Wheel alignment has to be done as well. Would it fix the
problem too? cuz when they do alignment they release the big bolts and the
alignment bolt to straighten it. am i right?
You soooo don’t need to take this trailing arm off. And if you tighten the
bushing bolts with the the car in the air, instead of with the car on all
for wheels, this bushing is going to be torn again in no time, plus it
might give you quite a bit of vibrations.
I notice that you don’t show how the lower tailing arm and wheel come off
the axel or reassembled. Must the CV joint be disassembed? Or a wheel
puller used to take the wheel off the splines of the rear axel?
it can with a special tool.you will see it on youtube. I tried to knock one
out while still on the car. I had to take it off in the end and put it in a
vice
You can do these on the car with a hammer. Just lower the front of the arm
down and beat away. You know what you’re doing I can see, hit them out from
the inside and reinstall from the outside. Save yourself the time and make
you some more money and just do it on the car.
u know what i do is leave in on car right…then i pry the arm down and
wedge a piece of wood between the arm and frame ..that way the arm is
forced down and you have clearance to hammer away…out with old in with
the new …try it works good
i tried doing mine but the bushings they gave me were wrong i guess because
the stock oem one slipped right back in with a few taps of a hammer , when
the new ones wouldnt even come close
just finished changing it. You made a good point, going to re-tighten the
bolts tomorrow. Wheel alignment has to be done as well. Would it fix the
problem too? cuz when they do alignment they release the big bolts and the
alignment bolt to straighten it. am i right?
You soooo don’t need to take this trailing arm off. And if you tighten the
bushing bolts with the the car in the air, instead of with the car on all
for wheels, this bushing is going to be torn again in no time, plus it
might give you quite a bit of vibrations.
I notice that you don’t show how the lower tailing arm and wheel come off
the axel or reassembled. Must the CV joint be disassembed? Or a wheel
puller used to take the wheel off the splines of the rear axel?
it can with a special tool.you will see it on youtube. I tried to knock one
out while still on the car. I had to take it off in the end and put it in a
vice
You can do these on the car with a hammer. Just lower the front of the arm
down and beat away. You know what you’re doing I can see, hit them out from
the inside and reinstall from the outside. Save yourself the time and make
you some more money and just do it on the car.
u know what i do is leave in on car right…then i pry the arm down and
wedge a piece of wood between the arm and frame ..that way the arm is
forced down and you have clearance to hammer away…out with old in with
the new …try it works good
can’t this be done without removing the entire arm?
drum brakes are soo stupid!!!!
nice it came out easy,some dont.
Piece of advice…….buy a nylon hammer
which will be better suspension “double wishbone” or trailing arm. plz
explain
i tried doing mine but the bushings they gave me were wrong i guess because
the stock oem one slipped right back in with a few taps of a hammer , when
the new ones wouldnt even come close
yea drums suck i admit it should be all disc so much easier to deal with
THE rear of my car feels like it wants to swing out, could this be the
reason?
arm was hanging off me, swinging that ballpein