A fastener by fastener tutorial for testing, removing, and installing an ignition switch on a Honda Accord. I cover how to cause an intermittent switch to ac…
Honda Accord Ignition Switch Replacement
286
Like
Save
){kind=link}
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Great video dude! lol. Hey, how similar is this procedure for say…. A 99
Acura tl 3.2 ? Thx. for the video.
If my ignition switch is the culprit, can I just use my key to unlock the
column and then hotwire the car so I can drive until my switch arrives in
the mail? Or will the car not hotwire if the switch is bad? I don’t want to
attempt it if it’s just a waste of time, but I need to drive!
As always your videos are so helpful. Seriously appreciated. Going to talk
to Honda tomorrow hopefully they will give me a new switch since I can’t
drive it. Problem is with the ignition wire same as yours
unfreaking believable good video! I only wish I’d seen it before I shelled
out $60 for a fuel pump relay that didn’t fix my problem. I’ve seen a lot
of videos on different car repairs and most don’t even come close.
I assume that there isn’t even enough room for a pair of needle nose pliers
to remove the shear bolts?
Just wanted to say that everything you presented was 100% accurate and
insightful. This is a rare case in regard to YouTube how-to videos. Well
done!
Great step by step detailed instructions!
Glad to help. Thanks For Watching.
I have a ’03 Honda Odyssey. I used your video to guide me through removing
the lock cylinder. Thank you so much for posting the video. It has saved me
a ton of money!
Thank you for your video. You can be a great professor.
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Hey thanks man. I just did it following your video and everything worked
out good.
Thank you. This is a great video by the way.
Can I install a momentary switch on the black and yellow ignition wire
above the fuse box to prevent theft? Does that wire need constant power
while the car is running?
No it only requires power when in start. The solenoid draws a lot more
current than you think and would most likely burn up the contacts of a
momentary switch. You’ll need to have that switch connected to the coil
side of a relay with the load side of the relay connected to the cut start
wire.
The current draw of the solenoid on these vehicles is around 4.3 to 4.7
amps. Most momentary contact switches are rated in the milliamp range. You
need a 5 amp rated relay to interrupt the start wire hook the switched
contacts across the cut start wire. The momentary switch should be rated
for the relays coil current and can supply a switched power or ground to
the coil to activate the relay and allow the vehicle to start.
This guy is really good….
Ok, thanks for the answer, and something i forgot to mention, that may be
important is, when the car stops, and i try to start it, if i hold the key
instead of just releasing it, then the engine runs, but i cant just hold
the key and drive, that would not be good and i probably could destroy
something else in the car. And this is everytime, when i release the key
the car fails to keep the engine running, but if i hold it, i could drive.
Well that was a very vital piece of info. It’s the ignition switch the run
contacts are bad.
My 2000 euro accord stops randomly, and when it stops, i have to wait about
5 min maybe, sometimes longer sometimes shorter, sometimes i can start the
car 20 sec later and it does not die maybe until the next time i go for a
drive, the thing i realize is that, if iam driving, and i have to make many
stops, stops where i need to take the key out, then the chances of the car
stoping is much greater, so iam not sure what it is and what to do here.
Check the main relay for cracked solder joints first while it could be the
ignition switch a cool down time needed to restart the vehicle usually
indicates cracked solder joints on this relay. A marginal ignition switch
will allow an instant restart in most cases.
The part # for the shear bolts he speaks of is 35102-SV4-003.They’re not
available at auto parts stores though,dealer only,so I went to Home Depot,
got two 8m x1.25 x 16 mm(length) allen head bolts(like he mentions) and
ground a couple mils off the end to get them down to 14 mm length.Use a 6
mm L shaped allen wrench to install and they work great. Excellent
tutorial,my young friend.Thanks for the help.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. AWESOME VIDEO. KEEP THEM COMING
Handy how to vid, thanks for posting.
Excellent video, thanks for all the painstaking edits and video angles.
Subscribed and Liked!
Yes the box under the seat is the door lock control / security module. When
the car won’t to start do a quick check of the relay. With the ignition in
the start position you should see power at (black/green) and at the load
terminal (white/red). Most importantly check for ground at the green wire
(switched relay coil ground). If ground isn’t present when the system is
disarmed. Check the powers and grounds to the module and the integrity of
the green wire. If it checks out the module is bad.
This helped alot, and totally worked 😀 Thanks man!
When the vehicle stalls are the dash lights off? If so it’s the switch. Not
all intermittent switches will respond to the snap back test. If the dash
lights are on check for cracked solder joints on the main relay PCB.
Cracked joints can intermittently kill power to the fuel pump or ECU which
will stall the vehicle out.
Fantastic Video! Love the detail and inserted comments. Very clear and
complete. Thank you!. Question: When the ignition switch is placed, will we
need to also replace all keys and locks to trunk, fuel, etc. as well since
requires a new key for ignition? … or can we (should we?) keep the lock
cylinder from previous switch?
When turning the key to “start” should there be continuity between the
white wire and the black with a white stripe wire?
my 99 accord is having this problem. I heard in your video that I could get
the ignition switch replaced for free because there was a recall. could i
bring this to any honda dealership to be replaced?
Before you do all this save yourself the time and call your local Honda
dealer with your VIN number. Honda did have a recall on the ignition switch
sometime ago. If your switch has been replaced already its most likely the
ignition pigtail that has gone bad (relay). If you do go threw Honda to get
it fixed it it will cost you between $300 – $350
Having a cut relay from the factory means either you have a factory keyless
entry / alarm system, you have a manual transmission, or both. Do you have
a manual or an auto? The start circuits are slightly different.
My 1997 2.2 Honda Accord all of a sudden 1 day…IT WONT CRANK..WONT TURN
AT ALL….i put a new battery, ignition switch and starter?.STILL WONT
CRANK AT ALL..COULD IT BE THE MAIN RELAY?..PLEASE HELP
An awl.
Thanks man you video was very helpful and it saved me a bunch of money on
labor…
I think because it was a tighter fit with the extension and I didn’t want
to mess around with wiggling the socket to get it off. Thanks For Watching.
That is what my daughter said when it happened to her. She is driving the
honda. It is not a problem but i wanted to install remote start on this car
and that is going to cause a problem if i don’t resolve it. i will pok
around under there and see what i can find out, i do know there are two
ignition wires in these honda’s. a primary and a secondary so i was hoping
that you would make it easy to trace them down. i will get back to you in
any case to give you an update so you will know. thanks
Perform a continuity test and see. Specifically between the white wire and
the black/yellow you should have continuity when in the run position.
i just replaced the ignition switch on my 1999 honda accord EX. mine wasn’t
recalled so i got one from Advance A. it didn’t come with new shear bolts
so i thought i was gonna get off easy like the recall letter said for other
1999 accords and only have to remove 2 screws. not to be. that third screw
was nearly impossible to find then take out. took forever. TIP: remove the
other two screws first, lie on your back under the steering wheel, wiggle
the switch cover and feel/find the third screw.
So you’re saying you replaced the ignition switch and the car is still
dying? If so check for cracked solder joints on the main relay. That’s
another common failure point on Hondas of this vintage. If you’re referring
to Honda replacing the switch in the past follow the instructions here to
test the switch. These switches are failure prone whether Honda replaced it
with the updated part or not.
No it won’t cause an issue. On these factory security system models the
door lock control module is integrated into the alarm module. So as long as
the door lock portion of the circuit in the alarm module doesn’t act up
you’ll be fine. On the vehicles without a factory alarm there is a
dedicated door lock control module located on the inside the drivers side
door.
the honda I am working on is sitting in almost 100 degree weather.., so I
know it’s the main relay because it doesnt start when it gets too hot or
cold.
Glad to help. Thanks For Watching.
The wire colors for the switch are the same and the continuity testing
procedures will be the same. But there will be no second connector at the
ignition switch. The wire harness will be part of the switch that’s the
only difference and you’ll have to unclip it on it’s way to the fuse box
when removing it.
Me too I haven’t wanted to open it up until i got some good directions,
because if i screwed it up my daughter is without a car
The testing procedure is the same but the ACC and IG2 wire colors have
changed. The contacts that close are the same so substitute these wire
colors from the ones in the video. Batt (Same Color White Wire) ACC
(White/Red) IG1 (Same Black/Yellow) IG2 (Black/Red) Start (Same Black/White)
Was it a no crank (starter wouldn’t function) or a no start (engine
wouldn’t turn over)?
I’m pretty sure that’s what’s wrong with my 97 Civic LX. Dash lights and
everything work as they normally do when about to start my car but as soon
as I go into Start, nothing. Everything stays lit on the dash but no crank
no start. Radio, AC and AC lights turn off for the duration of the start
hold, but come back when the key goes back into the 2 position. I plan on
seeing if I can get the recall part on Monday, but is there any way to
bypass the electrical switch just to get the car on?
Hey Bushougoma, Thanks for the info. I wish I saw that a few months ago. I
had the same intermitent problem. However there’s actually a recall on
this. I learn that my accord had it replaced in the past already but this
time they actually installed an upgraded part. Anyway, dealership did it
for free, that was nice, I didn’t have to do it myself.