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~ Rear sensor DIY video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4gDkRpo2vQ ~
This is the same process for the 2011-2017 honda odyssey
Are you experiencing P3400 or P3497 codes, consuming oil, and maintenance lights on? Here is how to replace the faulty sensor that is causing the problems. All you need is a 1/2 inch drive ratchet, 24mm socket, new sensor and o-ring from honda. Be sure to check the oil level after the replacement and monitor it for a few thousand miles.
OEM sensor for the 2008-2017 odyssey: https://amzn.to/2HeX6Fm
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OEM sensor for the 2008-2017 odyssey: https://amzn.to/2HeX6Fm
Great vid and crazy clean engine!
I am getting the 3497. 08 w 245K miles, but runs so smooth.
I flipped the front and rear and then cleared the codes and started the engine. Got the 3497 instantly.
Thoughts? Wiring?
But does it have the rattling noise along with the code p3400? Mine is loud got advice?
Is This may cause the vehicle to vibrate when in economy
Just wanted to say how thankful I am for this video. Our Pilot just went over 106xxx miles and I haven't had very many problems over the life of the vehicle. Of particular importance was showing the detail/closeup of disconnecting the electrical connector. I had code P3400, but replaced both sensors one evening, re-set the CEL and have continued to enjoy my Pilot. Thanks!
I've been following your videos on VTEC solenoid issues since the dealer put engine cleaner in my wife's 110k mile 2008. It sprung leaks everywhere! I've replaced the front vtec solenoid gasket (from other video) and everything was running great, and then it threw a P3497 after about 2 hours of driving. I'm waiting on parts to replace both oil pressure sensors as I checked the oil (full) cleared the code and it didn't come back after 50 miles of driving. What I'm wondering from this video is the rattle that's barely audible over the valve chatter. I've noticed the same rattle coming from the passenger side, firewall area down low. It sounds like a chattery timing tensioner, or some other rotational part. I notice it 30 seconds after startup. Since I've had the timing belt and tensioner replaced 3 months ago I don't believe it's that but your video is the first one that I've watched that has the same noise. Have you picked up on it and if so, do you know what it is? Thanks again for the videos, they really helped.
Is it the same location for 2007 touring?
Same part number ?
So couple days after changing a brand nee vtech solenoid i got the p3497 code. Could it be that honda sold me a defective solenoid?
i replaced both day order both parts from amazon as justed also both 0 rings too. DO i need to get the code clear or maybe unplug the battery? cause the engine light still on as i started my engine. I haven't driving it yet. Any thought? thank you
Just wanted to thank you for this video. Honda 2010 Ody EX-L with 114G miles. I had a code P3497 and the pressure switch on bank 2 was stuck off. Oil level was low as well. Added 2 quarts of oil, went to honda and got the parts, changed out the parts, cleared the code with my module, and went for a test drive. Eco mode is now working and everything feels normal as it should. I have a service A15 coming up this week from my mechanic. Thanks again. ~ Roger
Hey i have question i have 2005 hondq odyssey and today i drove like and hour first time i bought second hand car itbwqs running fine untill i took exit from the turnpike and after that car is start running slow and stuck in low gear untilk it cools down and when i look under need the hood i can see the oil is leaching i cqn not tell exqctly where it is leacking from do you think the solenoid is bad…??
Save yourself some time and replace BOTH at the same time. Had the second one fail within 2 hours of replacing the first one – thought I still had the problem until I pulled the codes again. That is amazing statistical life grouping considering both had 150K miles on them. Autozone, etc., have the sensors, but you have to head to the dealer for the orings. (and yes, they are the same part, front/rear, orings too)
I changed my front, car drove normal for a week and code went away but it happened all over again today. Not sure if the rear went now or the dreaded lower one I have read about. Too bad there's not a code for each one. What would you do next? I am thinking I should buy another switch and try replacing the rear. Any suggestions?
Hello and thank you for the great video! I installed a VCM Muzzler 2 years ago to keep the VCM off unless its over 80 degrees and I am at idle for a long time. I care less about gas mileage and want all 6 cylinders running. This month I noticed VCM coming on more often. Then I noticed the engine stuck in 4 cylinders or VCM mode when I needed to accelerate into traffic. This occurred 3x randomly. I have no engine codes other than 15% oil and I just took care of that. Do you think it may be one of these? The VCM muzzler I recall connected inline to the rear (front of the engine) sensor that you replaced. Appreciate your time.
Thanks for the awesome DIY vids! Your VTEC gasket change video was a life saver. And on that note, I need some advice. I changed said VTEC gasket a week or so ago. Last night I drove my car for 6-7 solid hours no problem. This morning, I drive 15 miles and she starts running really choppy and my check engine light flashes. I immediately drive to the nearest auto parts store and they give me an ECM/PCM relation malfunction (code 83-1) and a P3496 code. Would changing my VTEC gasket have anything to do with these new codes? I just find it too convenient that I change a gasket and the very oil pressure sensor attached to the VTEC manifold goes bad. Have I killed my car? Should I set it on fire? Help me MrRangerZr1, you’re my only hope.
If you don’t replace that component,what will happen to the engine?
Nice, clear video. I have the p3400 error which is bank 1 (rear, I guess). The VCM means the reduction from eight to four cylinders to save gas, right? The VCM is not engaging right now, which is why I took this to autozone to check the error code. That is something that would happen because of a bad oil switch?
Thanks for the vid and any help you might give me.
How do you know if the front one or the rear one is bad? I got a code P3400 bank 1. Are the front and rear the same part? Do I need to replace both?
Would a bad switch cause very rough idle??
I am getting a P3400 on my wife's '08 Odyssey Touring and I replaced both of the oil pressure switches, then cleared the CEL with a scan tool. After a couple heat cycles, the light is back on. I thought the oil pressure switch was leaking as there's a fair amount of oil around it, but I'm guessing it might be on the solenoid that the switch is on. Any thoughts, +MrRangerZr1?
Would this fix a problem related to the 'vsa', 'vsa exclamation warning', and check engine light coming on and a loss of power? If I shut the car off and restart, everything goes back to normal until I get caught in traffic, which starts the process over again.