2006-2011 Honda Civic Wheel Bearing Replacement (Without Removing the Spindle)

2006-2011 Honda Civic Wheel Bearing Replacement (Without Removing the Spindle)

On this episode I show you how to replace your front wheel bearing on your 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic. The procedure involves removing the brakes and pressing the old bearing out of the knuckle and pressing the new one into the knuckle. The only way to remove the bearing on the vehicle is with a couple special tools that I go over how to use in the video. I would estimate probably 3 to 4 hours to replace these bearings if you’re not familiar with the procedure.

Here are the parts and tools you will need to replace your Honda Civic’s wheel bearing:

Tools:
Slide Hammer: https://amzn.to/2X6CEdS
Press Tool: https://amzn.to/2UGbb6p
Large Snap Ring Pliers: https://amzn.to/2UZKE33
Impact Driver: https://amzn.to/2X5pj5M

Parts:
Bearing (non SI): https://amzn.to/2X4SWnE
Bearing (SI): https://amzn.to/2P86ZpX
Snap Ring (non SI): https://amzn.to/2PRj4jr
Snap Ring (SI): https://amzn.to/2DfOESS
Hub (non SI): https://amzn.to/2XcZfpj
Hub (SI): https://amzn.to/2Xa2iOX
Help support the channel by using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Torque Specs:
https://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/civic/2012/4dr/civic_torque_specs.pdf

Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com

Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

377,538
Like
Save


Comments

Repair Geek says:

Here are some links to the parts and the tools that I used in the video:
Slide Hammer: https://amzn.to/2X6CEdS
Press Tool: https://amzn.to/2UGbb6p
Large Snap Ring Pliers: https://amzn.to/2UZKE33
Parts:
Bearing (non SI): https://amzn.to/2X4SWnE
Bearing (SI): https://amzn.to/2P86ZpX
Snap Ring (non SI):https://amzn.to/2PRj4jr
Snap Ring (SI): https://amzn.to/2DfOESS
Hub (non SI): https://amzn.to/2XcZfpj
Hub (SI): https://amzn.to/2Xa2iOX

Help support the channel. Buy using my Amazon links

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.

Torque Specs:
https://www.collegehillshonda.com/ins...

lajoyalobos2009 says:

In a pinch if you couldn't get your hands on a slide hammer, could you use an air hammer from the rear of the hub to get it off?

cougar560427 says:

This method sure didn't work on my 2007 Honda Odyssey, :). I ended up removing the knuckle, then at 9 tons pressure in my press, the bearing wouldn't budge ! I had to hit with a sledge hammer to un-jar it. Then it came out in the press. I knew I should've listen to my wife and just taken it to the dealer…….lol.

Steven Zembriski says:

Great video, it help me with my 2013 Civic.

Kaelin Kennedy says:

Would you need an alignment after removing the strut bolts

c p says:

does the bearing seat itself on a shoulder on the back side of the knuckle or bearing bottoms out on plate of bearing tool plate

ISAAC OCAMPO says:

great video but the set up to remove the bearing was wrong that's why he cuts the video

Bhaumik patel says:

Thank you for sharing this video, Great work. Ever since I replaced my front right bearing with this method. My cv shaft has excessive play which cause clunking and also abs light is goes on.
What I feel is the use of slide hammer may misaligned camber or toe angle.

Paulo Costa says:

Thank you very much

genan7891 says:

My 2011 Civic needs new wheel bearings. Any idea what a fair repair estimate is?

OrganicDepot says:

Are some bearings actually inside the hub? So replacing the hub will replace the bearing? Or does it depend on the car?

Franco Galloso says:

Really cool video to know how to use a wheel bearing tool. Do you think for any car should be the same prrocces ? Thanks so much.

RIPSAW says:

What a fantastic video. Sure wish you were close. At 72, I am getting old for this and sure would be nice to have someone you trust.. I replaced both rear hub bearings on my 2007 2dr Civic EX with 177K on it ( my student's car). Back right was totaling failing when I caught it. Then you could hear right rear in turns. It was rough. Replaced the two compensating bushings in the lower front control arm. Backside under was torn That stopped a clunk in bumps that I thought was top strut mount going bad. Now with all tight when you turn and let the steering wheel spin back, you can fill a shutter bump fill in steering wheel and a pretty noticeable howl as you pull out driving along straight. One axle is new. Other fills good. Hard to believe boots are still good. (My 85 and 93 failed at 80K. Even the one I replaced was still good till a shyster stuck it with a scribe down in the bottom of the V at the Honda dealer at state inspection. Years ago the boots were about $40. Now it's cheaper to put in a new axle and sure lot less messy.

I guess the only true way to check is to take the axle out unless the bearing is failing loose.

My question have you ever seen one go past 180K and be OK? Could my howl be in automatic transmission? It fills and shifts great. I have always used 3 quarts of synthetic Honda fluid in it ever 3rd motor oil change

Comments are disabled for this post.