http://www.apdty.com/ Click the above link to find the Accumulator for your vehicle. In this video we’ll show you how to remove the AC compressor, accumulato…
2003 GMC Yukon AC Compressor and Accumulator Repair Part 1: AC Compressor
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2003, Accumulator, Compressor, Part, repair, Yukon
- Categories: GMC
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I don’t think there are any special tricks needed on that vehicle, once the system is empty you should be able to unscrew the lines going to the accumulator, and there should be a clamp about halfway down which needs to be unbolted, then it should come out.
How do I remove an a/c accumulator on a 1997 Tahoe?
You don’t need to take fan or fan shroud off instead just disconnect all coolant lines away from compressor did one today very easy job
If the compressor comes filled with the correct amount of oil, you do not need to do any additional prep work to it before bolting it in.
if a A/C compressor already comes with oil in it do you just take it out of the box and immediately install it? or do you have to still do something to it.
The Tahoe would be just about the same as the truck in this video. I am not sure of what the labor cost would be because it varies so much from parts of the country and different shops. Your best bet is to call up a couple local shops if you aren’t going to do the work yourself and ask how much they want.
How much would labor cost for this job on a 2004 tahoe? Is it the same on a tahoe as it is on this car?
In your case, I would distribute the oil throughout the various components. that will ensure it flows properly throughout the system.
I have a 1997 pontiac grand am se 2.4 four cyl engine. I’m putting a used compressor in my car. It says it takes 9oz. of oil on the compressor. I will drain most of the oil out of the compressor by removing the drain bolt and through the other ports. My question is does it matter where I pour the new oil in? Do I put it all in where the drain plug is? or do i pour half in there and the rest in the ports? And I read I should put some oil in the new accumulator? Correct? thanks
Denso, a Toyota arm, should last longer than the original unit.
Hi Andrew, the Accumulator is similar to an AC Drier, one of it’s functions is to remove the moisture out of the refrigerant, the difference from a drier is that it is on the low-pressure side of the system. Any time you open the system you want to replace to drier or accumulator to prevent moisture (humidity in the air) from damaging the internals of your AC system.
I have a 2003 chevy tahoe that I need a AC compressor. This is the first time that ive heard of a Accumulator? why are you replacing that as well and how do you know if its bad? thanks Andrew
What about adjusting the clutch? My uncle says you have to or else it will burn up in a few days.
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I’m not license, but I can service a A/C system on a car I learn as I go..
Yes it will. You have to flush the rear lines and change the expansion valve if the orifice tube for the front is filled with metal shavings. Experts and EPA licensed only!!
Yes, the oil can also be added to the condenser, or accumulator, or just about anywhere you can physically put it. The refrigerant when pumping through the system mixes with the oil and it circulates throughout the entire AC system.
if the compressor doesnt have the proper amount of oil in it from the factory do you pour the oil straight into the compressor? i have a 2001 tahoe and it requires 11 oz of oil…..that seems like an awful lot of oil to put in the compressor…is there somewhere else the oil can be added?
If there is metal in the system, the only thing you may want to do differently is to replace the AC condenser. The passages inside the condenser are quite small and can become easily clogged. You also want to do an extra thorough flush to be sure that 100% of the metal is out of the system so it does not destroy your new compressor.
how would this procedure be different if you were to find metal flakes in the oil during the flushing phase of this project?
I didn’t flush the REAR AC. #1 I found there was low oil level in my exist. compressor #2 The flush of the system did not produce any dirty residue. That led me to believe my oil was leaking from around the shaft seal or bearing on the compressor. When using your air compressor to flush the system, raise the SS Tube straight up till you can come in with your compressor hose, across the top of the firewall. I poured 4oz. of oil directly in the accumulator. The Denso already had 2 1/2oz.
I’m no backyard mechanic but following this DIY Vid, I performed this repair & it was my very first ac compressor replacement project. I was smiling from ear-ear, when I got 50 degrees from my center AC vent using a turkey therm. I used 4cans of 12oz. 134a freon. At 88 degrees outdoors, w/ the engine @ 2000RPM I was registering 50PSI on the low side, and 210PSI on the high side. I DID NOT flush the rear AC section on my yukon.
Two Thunbs up and a BIG THANK YOU to you guys for doing this marvelous DIY. I probably just saved easily around $800 doing this project on my 2001 GMC Yukon w/REAR AC. Total cost in parts and misc. was around the $750 mark. My compressor symtoms started with a CHATTER NOISE with the AC ON and runiing. About 1 week later of the chatter noise, my AC compressor belt broke. Put on a new belt and a new tension pulley from GMC. The chatter persisted and 2 weeks later I broke the new belt,
Compressor will not fit out the bottom
Hmm,, it’s been so long since I did this job I don’t remember exactly, haha, I think there wasn’t enough clearence with the fan shroud in the way to physically remove the compressor? I honestly don’t remember,, but I assume I had a good reason at the time, 🙂
Why not just remove the compressor from the bottom instead of going through the trouble of removing the fan and all that crap????