Car Fix DIY Videos

If you’re noticing that it takes extra pressure on your brake pedal to slow down, you might be dealing with a failing booster.

View the full job and shop supplies here: https://www.oreillyauto.com/diy-leaking-from-car

Supplies Needed for This Job:
1. Safety Glasses: https://urlzs.com/hbwc
2. Gloves: https://bit.ly/2GvfwAm
3. Chocks: http://bit.ly/2ZvIW98
4. Brake Line Flare Wrenches: http://bit.ly/2Dyk7jt
5. Crescent Wrenches: http://bit.ly/2DI3x0P
6. Socket Set: http://bit.ly/2UUqY1p
7. Brake Booster: http://bit.ly/2UDDn4G
8. Brake Fluid: http://bit.ly/2VpQfzT
9. Siphon Tool: http://bit.ly/2IFNXXk
10. Drain Pan: http://bit.ly/2GEzWqK
11. Shop Towels: http://bit.ly/2viLw4m
12. Brake Cleaner: http://bit.ly/2UxiRmp

0:00 Welcome Back
0:30 Tips
0:46 Prep Your Vehicle
1:08 Disconnect Brake Lines
1:51 Remove the Master Cylinder
2:10 Disconnect HCU Line
2:38 Gain Brake Booster Access
2:46 Remove the Brake Booster
3:13 Install the New Booster
3:40 Reinstall the Master Cylinder
3:51 Reattach Hoses & Lines
2:58 Bleed Your Brakes

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Transcript:

Chock your wheels and set the parking brake.
Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Set it aside someplace where it isn’t touching metal.
You’ll need to relieve the vacuum pressure that exists in the system so you can disconnect the vacuum line and separate the master cylinder from the booster.
To do this, pump your brake pedal a few times with the engine off.
Once the pedal firms up, you’re good to go.

Locate your power brake booster, which should be right against the back wall of your engine compartment on the driver’s side.
Before removing the booster, you’ll have to remove the master cylinder, which is directly in front of it.
In some vehicles, you can just move the master cylinder to the side.

If you are able to move the master cylinder to the side, there’s no need to unhook the brake hydraulic lines.
And if you don’t need to remove the hydraulic brake lines, the job won’t take as long because you won’t have to bleed the brake system.
If you do need to remove the brake lines, leave the master cylinder cap on and remove the master cylinder from the booster.
There’s no need to remove the fluid.
Hold your fingers over the holes as you remove it from the vehicle to make sure no brake fluid drips on anything.

Next, remove the electrical cable leading to the brake fluid reservoir. This can be done by hand.
Remove the clip that secures the connector and push the tab to release it.
Use the proper brake line flare wrench to disconnect the brake fluid lines and unscrew the mounting nuts with your ratchet and socket.
Once you’ve removed the master cylinder, tip it over your drain pan to allow any remaining fluid to drain.
Keep in mind that brake fluid spills will damage painted surfaces, so if this happens, flush it with water immediately.
If your vehicle has antilock brakes, you’ll also want to disconnect the brake line from the hydraulic control unit, or HCU, and remove this component so it’s out of the way.

Inspect the seal at the end of the master cylinder… there should be no signs of brake fluid seepage.
If you see fluid, there is a leak.
If this is not corrected, the new booster will be damaged by allowing brake fluid inside the vacuum chamber and deteriorating the vacuum diaphragm.
So, if the master cylinder seal does show signs of seepage, the master cylinder needs to be replaced.

With the master cylinder out of the way, you can turn your attention to the brake booster.
Inside the vehicle, tilt your steering wheel up and remove the knee blocker to give you easier access.
Your brake pedal attaches to a push rod that leads directly to the booster.
Detach the retaining clip that connects the two components.

*Watch the video for full instructions on this job*