GM 2.2L WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

GM 2.2L WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT

A quick Tutorial on changing the water pump on a 99 Chev Cavalier. also tips on the timing and chain tension..

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Sim ChaFitness says:

Is there any way I can get an after market “bolt on” electric water pump
and bypass the whole system totally??

Dan Dunnihoo says:

On a 1997 cavalier 2.4 L do you have to take the timing chain cover off and
everything to get the water pump off

LilNik Johnson says:

In this job how many gasgets will i need

toni osuna says:

What I can do if the tensioner is stuck? help me please

Kerri P says:

hahaha thank you for the “ladies” you know us girls do this too hehehe

Bruce Ginkel says:

Whoever signed off on this design at GM needs to be prosecuted under a
tribunal for engineering crimes against humanity. Punishment would be
having to change 150 of these pumps.

b4roni1 says:

Got the same problem, looks intimidating but, i’m ready. do you recommend
removing the passenger side tire and fender well for easier access?

Anthony Bushey-Anello says:

im starting this job for a friend tomorrow. and im intimidated as hell. but
im going to do it anyway!

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

Allow yourself LOTS of time to do this job. If you can’t, then don’t
attempt this water pump replacement on your own.

patagualian says:

Thanks for a great Video. The pump design is a mess, but job will be easier
now. (whoever hear of having to remove the Exhaust manifold to change a
water pump: Crazy Idea) I had the cover off & was asuming the chain had to
be removed completely………Until I saw your Vid!! The tensioner info was
a bonus. Thanks again.Much appreciated.

Don Sexton says:

Thx for the response. You provided great info, enough to instill
confidence & awareness of difficult steps (as if this particular repair
isn’t enough of an intimidation overall or to begin). It seems the 2.4L is
definitely more difficult than the other engine option, the price of
performance. I don’t mind doing it cold, but getting a service manual as
well from a library to save time & hopefully prevent any trouble. I’ll try
to post a response vid, maybe good enough to complement yours. Peace.

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

Yeah, sorry about so many friggen posts… LOL! I guess there was just a
lot to be said about the nightmarish job. Anything I can do to ease the
next guy’s pain… I figure – what the heck right?! Besides, who knows… I
may get to do another one of these again one day (god help me) and I can
look up your video and refresh my memory on what all I need and how to do
it. Have a good one…

Thecarguy1254 says:

The water pump on my Toyota wasnt much fun. I had to take the entire front
of the engine on that 3vze off to get at it. Then there was Toyota’s stupid
timing marks which confuse the heck out of everyone, so I had to do it
twice. 380 bucks and 2 weeks later she is running like a champ at 264000
miles! lol

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

I also replaced a few other things that didn’t directly pertain to the
water pump. I replaced leaky valve cover gaskets and such. (I was sick of
expensive fully synthetic oil leaking out.) You can do an entire water pump
job on the 2.4L engine for under $150 if you don’t replace the $190 timing
set (chain/gears/tensioner/guides). @ around 170,000 miles, my timing
components were still in great condition and really didn’t need to be
replaced, but I did them anyhow as a precautionary measure.

kooldude1992 says:

Did this a couple weeks ago. Thanks for the video! Only issue was that I
had a HORRIBLE oil leak from the timing chain cover for some reason
after… I took it back apart, put RTV all around it, then tightened it
down (Two of the bolts near the bottom busted inside of course, I wasnt
putting much force into them) and the leak has slowed to a few drips a day.
Thanks for the help. Any suggestions for the small oil leak would be
appreciated but no big deal!

Jeremy King says:

I went through all this myself, what a whore of a job it was! damn GM
engineering. so much labour for a water pump, make sure you get the AC
delco part from the dealer, you dont wanna do this job again in two years!!

lawnside82 says:

i tryed to do this to a 2001 grand am…took me 3 days!! pain in the ass!!
id rather pay a shop to do it. becouse the motor mount had to come out and
the motor saged and it was a pain to get back up with a jack..

callmeafanatic says:

man ive got a couple short days into this project and i wish i never
started,WHAT A NIGHTMARE! #1 i was hoping not 2 have 2 remove exhaust
manifold-WRONG #2 was hoping 2 slide water pump gear without releasing
tension on timing chain WRONG again,its a good thing this motor only has
80,000 on it or i would call the junk yard 2 come get it!

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

BTW, you don’t HAVE to run synthetic oil – it’s just what I do in some of
my vehicles. As long as you do your engine oil changes every 3,000 miles
with conventional ‘ol 5w30 engine oil, you’ll be just fine. We rack a lot
of miles up on the ‘ol Cavi real quick, so that’s my main reason to
switching to the synthetic oil and premium filter, so I can extend my drain
intervals. The little 2.4L Twin Cam now has over 188,000 and is still going
strong. Was it worth fixing the water pump? You bet it was.

Stylefree83 says:

you happen to know where i can find a video for a 2.2L ?

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

Additonal RECOMMENDED parts to go along with my mandatory list: S.A. Gear
Complete Timing Set: 76090 $189.99 Be sure to change your engine oil and
filter after running engine for a little while. (I did an oil/filter change
after one week.) I run full synthetic 5w30 in this 2.4L. I change the oil &
filter @ 7,500 miles. I use a premium K&N oil filter P/N: HP1007. Extended
drain interval requires top quality filtration. Don’t waste your money on
“name brands”, any fully synthetic oil is fine.

DillysADV says:

@lawnside82 yea that can be the case.. did you bid out the job to a shop to
see how much you saved by doing it yourself.. I know for me where there is
no money. I usually end up doing things my self regardless of how painful
it is.

pubicsmellerburrito says:

These water pumps are garbage, can’t get anything American made. The first
one I had on my ld9 was from china and it went out a year after it was
replaced and the waranty was over, I ended up getting a mexican made one so
hopefully they build em better haha. You have to watch out because they
bearings get eating away and it leaks into the oil and causes the chain to
slap around if your not careful. Good thing you caught it early

EricTheCarGuy says:

Not fun.

wafrederick says:

Also don’t turn backwards,will bend the valves and the 2.4 is an
interferance engine.Basically turn the crankshaft as you are tightening a
bolt.Don’t buy a fail safe thermostat,a big pile of junk and they don’t
work.I see them,throw it away and put in a convential thermostat.

DillysADV says:

@Stylefree83 I am sorry, I do not.. I just make vids as I do them and I am
not a full time mechanic just a shade tree mechanic.

Sheila May says:

this is just way to much work 🙁 damn car

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

Oh yeah, and I’d HIGHLY recommend buying a service manual and FOLLOW it
closely so you don’t screw up your timing on the engine. Again, take your
time and another good suggestion that I have is to TAKE good, clear, well
lit, PICTURES as you go, and then you can re-reference them when you are
putting stuff back together.

DillysADV says:

@SuperTurboDiesel2 what else can be said. I totally agree. I was not going
to do this video until I realized what i had gotten my self into..

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

What ticks me off is that there was absolutely NO reason for GM to design
the engine’s cooling system this way. Totally unnecessary & assenine! Ever
do a water pump on the 3.1L V-6? For christ’s sake, it’s 100% faster,
cheaper, and easier! How did GM make one engine so simple, and another so
totally f’ed up? Perhaps the design engineers were high on Crack on the day
they designed the quad-4’s (aka twin cam 4’s). Anyhow, pretty GOOD video.
Could have been a little more detailed, but still good.

DillysADV says:

sorry that it did not help as much.. Just so you know, this was an HD
camera. not really sure what you could not see but you could see what I was
showing.

pelonissafe says:

nice video man

DillysADV says:

I agree, this is one of my first vids and I always seem to leave out a lot
of vital info.. yes, if you are into this point REPLACE THE CHAIN! we did
not replace it as it looked fine however it broke 6 mo later and blew the
motor.. there really were not any special tools used but i do have a fair
amount of tools to complete most any job. I do not know any torques off
hand more or less snugged them as they were when removed them. yes, oil was
drained and changed after this service. belt was fine

farmtech4449 says:

I’m glad I got rid of my Z24 years ago. This would have sucked, I’ll change
a water pump on my BMW anyday.

DillysADV says:

what do you mean? autozone and O’reily both have websites that will give
you the correct part number??

SuperTurboDiesel2 says:

Actually went well. I used a lift when I did this job, and it made things a
bit easier for removing the larger things before you remove the RH engine
mount for accessing the timing chain cover. It took me around 7 – 8 hours,
and I did it over the course of 2 days. I actually replaced my water pump,
timing chain & gear set, the plastic guides, & the hydraulic tensioner. I
also replaced a bunch of different gaskets as well since I had everything
apart. Spent around $350 or so in parts.

DillysADV says:

got er done but at the customers request, re-used the timing chain which
gave up and blew the engine 6 months later..

rick watz says:

this is the best video that ive seen on this, thanks

DillysADV says:

@MrSBChevy do you have a torch? If so A buddy of mine had a vid on another
option.. I have not done it this way my self because I did not have my
torch at the time.. I will PM you the link

Thecarguy1254 says:

The water pump on my Toyota wasnt much fun. I had to take the entire front
of the engine on that 3vze off to get at it. Then there was Toyota’s stupid
timing marks which confuse the heck out of everyone, so I had to do it
twice. 380 bucks and 2 weeks later she is running like a champ at 264000
miles! lol

DillysADV says:

Many posts.. either way.. thanks for the posts and information.. always
good clarification on stuff I may have left out.

DillysADV says:

@MrSBChevy I removed the 3 bolts that hold the manifold to the rest of the
exhaust it just makes it easier to rock it out of the way..

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