How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2011-2017 Ford Explorer with 3.5L Engine

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2011-2017 Ford Explorer with 3.5L Engine

Brian Eslick from How to Automotive http://www.howtoautomotive.com takes you step-by-step through the process of replacing the serpentine belt on a 2011-2017 Ford Explorer with 3.5L engine.

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Comments

Luis Jurado says:

Nice and easy thanks

Blunts-N-Boards says:

Does this work for a 2011 Ford Taurus

Meems Garcia says:

For this vehicle is there a such this as “ A/C compressor drive belt”?

Mike Kramer says:

Can you adjust the tensioner to be tighter? It has a rattle when AC is on.

carstensxdm45 says:

Well just completed this PIA project, now just trying to stop the bleeding from all the scrapes, cuts got from the job. The zip idea of holding the belt on the crank pulley is helpful, struggled for 1 1/2 hours because the belt they gave me was the smaller belt (175 amp alternator), when back and got the bigger belt for the more powerful 200 amp alternator. The info about the AC bracket was very helpful, I also "peeled back" the inner wheel cover for better access. I had to have an extra set of hands to hold the tensioner back, finally got it on. Overall, WOULD NOT WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN!!!!!!!!
smaller belt was 45 3/8, you need the 45 5/58, save yourself the trouble

trunk says:

My belt tentioner wont budge more than a quarter inch. I put the ratchets nipple into the square hole thats on the tension pulley and i pull it towards the radiaotor or the front of the truck but it only moves a tiny bit. Is it frozen??? Stuck??

Wolfpackflt670 says:

Well….That was a pain in the @$$…..But it's on….

Jose Castro says:

Omg finally someone who knows thank you

johnnyohness says:

Good video. Do you have anything on how to change the alternator on that same Ford explore?

William Stokes says:

As others have said, if your old belt is stretched out when you install the new belt, the tensioner will ride in a different spot and you won’t be able to get your ratchet off of the tensioner. I’d recommend taking the mounting bolt out for the ac line before taking the belt off.

Tim Huang says:

Thanks, your video was helpful

tomnape28 says:

I have the eco boost v6. Way more stuff in the way doing it from the top. Think I might have to install from underneath

Myriam Poulin says:

Allô…est ce qu'on peut changer la belt en condamnant le compresseur a/c si je m'achète une belt plus p'tite ??merci renseignements

Zack says:

Easiest belt I've ever done thanks for the video!

Mason Chant says:

Thanks for the video. I did end up with a stucknsocket wrench following these instructions though. If you have a 1-1/8" wrench it works much easier as a tensioner. Socket wrench got stuck against A/C line clip after new belt was in place. Use the large wrench on top of tensioner, better leverage and easier removal. If you don't have a 1-1/8" wrench, take the clip off first!

Scott Richard says:

There is a small line that looks like it is coming off the radiator. It is a steel line into a rubber hose with a cover on it. When the belt broke it whipped around and torn that hose. Which happens to be like an inch away from the lowest pulley. What is that hose called, part number or any other insight on that piece? I need to find fix that as well as the belt and hope the broken belt wasn't linked to ac compressor problem as this all went down when I turned on the AC. If you pause at 2:29 of the video it is the line/hose coming from the right of the screen dropping down into the engine bay.

Okingz Okingz says:

U get sense.

Mark Goodlin says:

Tip. Take the AC fill line strap off first thing!!!!! The one you see across from the tensioner on the frame. I just spent a hour trying to get it off because after I put the new belt on I couldn't get my ratchet out because it was in the way. When the old belt is on the tensioner hole is more towards the back on the vehicle but the new belt it was straight across from that bolt on that strap. It will save you a lot of cussing if you remove it first.

Dean Miller says:

Thanks for the video but you did not show removing the ratchet from the tensioner after you got the belt back on. You should have shown that you need to remove the bolt holding an AC line against the frame. You can not get the ratchet off without removing that bolt as you see at 0257. So remove the bolt and swing the bracket out of the way, put the ratchet on the tensioner and install the belt then reattach the bracket for the AC. I just did this on my car and it would have been nice to have that info.

Jesus de la cruz says:

6PK 1139 is the correct one not 6PK 1145

Arnold D says:

Just replaced this on my wife's 2013. What a PIA. Eventually I found it went on easier if I looped the belt around the crankshaft pulley and A/C compressor from underneath. Up top, wedge a broom stick between the engine mount and lower coolant recovery tank hose. The stick prevents the belt from slipping off the top of the crank pulley. Loop the belt under the tensioner, apply tension and work it on the alternator.

John Mccloud says:

I have had a charging issues do to bad belts on this vehicle

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