Here is a video tutorial on how to replace the spark plugs without breaking any off in the head for a 5.4 V8. This guide will work any Ford with a 5.4L V8. When doing this repair go very slow and take your time I cannot stress this enough. Completing this repair your self will save you hundreds of dollars!
Links:
Spark Plug Socket: http://amzn.to/2rbSWai
Spark Plugs: http://amzn.to/2Djoh0r
Dielectric Grease: http://amzn.to/2DaMxOd
Nickle Anti-Seize: http://amzn.to/2EOF0Fn
Carburetor Spray: http://amzn.to/2D7E6Dn
If you have any further interest please visit http://www.2carpros.com
*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions
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That spark plug socket looks like a regular deepwell socket thats one piece with an extension on it.
Ford is going out of business because of spectacular RIP-OFFS like these stupid sparkplugs. You know as well as I do that they did this quite on purpose. Ford must think the American public is totally stupid.
Next thing you know they'll have the sniveling, crying deep voiced guy on the commercials apologizing to customers. They must think that this kindn of commercial is something great.
I've never owned a Ford and I never will.
Thanks for the video. I'm buying an 08 with 94k miles on it. I plan on taking it home and doing the plugs immediately. thanks for the tips.
Thanks to your video. I was able to replace the plugs in my 2005 F150 5.4 V8 without breaking any at 147,000. Some were very tight but finally gave up taking it slow and easy as you said. thanks again.
So you are aware motorcraft 515 plugs were superceded with 546 because the original 515 were a 2peice design that often broke (hense the bad rep) the 546 plug are the "reinvented" or revised plug of a 1 peice shell design. That's why they don't sell them anymore.
Thank you for the carb cleaner soak tip and for explaining what Ford stated to do on this job. (i.e. Loosening then tightening the plug.) Very thorough video. Thanks!!!
I have a 2007 plugs every 40000 klm. First change very tight with method you have shown last couple came out like butter. The area where they bind up is the shell where ford tells you to apply the anti seize.The shell is a close tolerance fit to the head for heat dissaption. Carbon builds up in this area causing the plug to shear on the assembly wield. This wield is still used on the latest plug design but the 2004 build date plugs deemed as two piece were the same design but the shell was a loose fit as the engineers wanted the plug to get its seat wedge crushed as apposed to screwed into the aluminum seat. This was still a weak point on later one piece designs that you could not turn the shell.But what the ford engineers have been doing is loosing up the tolerance on the plug shell giving more room for carbon to break up on disassembly. Applying anti seize takes up room in this void and resists carbon sticking to the shell portion of the plug making removal less of a task. Sorry for my rant 30 years licenced 15 of thoes working for a Ford dealer.Just wanted to explain these are not the same as the early 2 valve 5.4 and 4.6 that blew out the threads due to the insufficient 5 threads and the low torque spec 18 ftlbs upped to 25 ftlbs. Everything is junk until you understand it!!!
Getting ready to do this job. What do you think about cracking the spark plug 1/4 turn then spraying Ford carb cleaner, let it soak over night, then using the OTC 6918 spark plug tool to remove?
you didn't try hard enough… I did my 5.4 and my 4.6… Hell I broke 14 out of 16
Used the tool… But the back 2 on the drivers side…. took 3 hours to get them out…
Tried your method…. 8 out 8 broke….. in my 5.4…. pick up. and 4 in my 4.6 explorer
So did you do it on a HOT motor or was it cooled down ?
Hey how's it going. Those 3v are a headache. Good video. I'm sending out a couple of my shop shirts out to some youtubers. Seeing if you would like one
this is what happens when you try to reinvent the spark plug it's been fine for a hundred years leave it alone thx ford
Bro where did u get that air can ?