Your video helped me understand removal of the ball joint. I would hang the brake caliper to prevent damage to the hose. Rubbler gloves would be a plus to protect your hands.
Thanks for the video, haven’t replaced ball joints on a ford yet so this is very helpful and I like the way you respond to people’s somewhat rude nit picking. Much appreciated
Clanking noises and the grease boot around the joint will be ripped or missing. If you hear one clanking, chances are all 4 need replacing. My local shop wants $650 including tax and alignment to do both top and bottom. That is with me buying the parts. $150 for all the parts, I think it is worth giving it a try myself.
You got ripped off for $78 /peice. I got a 10pc kit from ebay for $110. Included ball joints+arms/sway bar links/bushings, both inner/outer tie rods and etc. All OEM+. Those parts look exactly the same as what mine look like too. Check out ebay for parts, only do free shipping unless you wanna pay more. (Not affiliated, just helping people out) I only got tie rods/sways done so far, thanks for the video. Helps a lot for the next parts
Thanks buddy; I have 2000 Explorer the wheels are gonna fall off any day now I suspect so time to do something about it LOL. Nice ( & appreciated by me) you shared your knowledge on the subject freely like this. Now I’m sure I can tackle this! I work in an Acura dealership (svc writer) so getting my car worked on cheaply AND successfully is an iffy proposition these days. Like the old saying goes ‘If you want something done right, do it yourself’ lol…
Great video,I like the way you were concerned about the threads & the grease fittings.but you should of used that bungee to hang up your caliper.instead of the axel…
Hey nit picking guys. He isn’t working at a Nascar pit stop. It is his garage! Thanks for the instruction! I am doing my truck tomorrow! Next time hang the Calipers for a zip tie.
Hey croom9 did you have to do anything with the tortion bar? I am a GM guy but am visiting with family and I need to do ball joints on a 1999 Explorer. It looked like you just popped the BJ and did not do anything with the TB, so I just wanted to check. Looks a lot easier than GM ball joints with coil springs. Also what were your symptoms and mileage? I looked at the bushings and that does not seem to be the problem. Thanks for any advice.
Just did this whole job on my 4×4 ’03 Ranger…identical setup. I had the luxury of a 1/2″ impact and a torch so it way a little easier….good job though!
have same vehicle with a v8. i looked at my lowers and notice the snap ring is not sitting flush. they stick up high enough on driver and passanger side that you can see the splines in the ball joint. is this a bad thing, did the mechanic push these in too far or do they wear out and push up over time.
Just curious, how long did it take in total time to replace the passenger’s ball joint and putting everything back together, an hr?
I have a ’95 Ford Explorer. To get to the lower ball joint, is it a lot different than the ’99 Explorer?
I got a quote that each lower ball joint is $92. The shop said I needed both front lower ball joints replaced, not the upper. The cost of labor to do this is nearly $300. Is that correct?
Yager, you can tell by looking at the bottom of the joint. Take off the tire and have a big light handy, if hour rubber boot is cracked and the ball is real dry, you will need to replace. Also the inside of your tire will ware bald.
Eh, I want to use this opportunity to smash everyone’s rude ass comments.. But rather, good job man, saved me 450 minus parts and a grease gun this week. And for those asking specific questions, there’s no real better way to do anything than looking and thinking, err and patience. And again, thanks a ton, this is helping a lot of people. And, Skinny people rule, I didn’t hear you get winded once.
With a proper torque wrench, the direction affects the mechanism no differently. There are two very important rules to remember, however. First, NEVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, only up to the desired torque. Second, if it is a “click” type, ALWAYS back off the adjustment when storing the wrench (keeping the mechanism preloaded is what’s bad for calibration). Big breaker bars are hazardous. To break the axle nut loose, have the vehicle on the ground and set the brake (wheel holds hub)
You know hes a noob when he wastes time and doesnt take the caliper off as a whole assembly *just extra nuts to take off, wastes time and increases liability). This video is ok but find a better one
In case no one told you it is a good practice to use a zip tie or piece of coat hanger to support your brake calipers while they are removed. Letting them dangle from their hoses is a sure fire way to get a small leak in your brake line(especially if the truck is over 10 years old) Not nit picking just an observation to be helpful. Otherwise great video. I now feel like I can take this on for doing mine on my 01 explorer. Thanks again!
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axle nut is 32mm
Your video helped me understand removal of the ball joint. I would hang the brake caliper to prevent damage to the hose. Rubbler gloves would be a plus to protect your hands.
You get what you pay for.
Yeah go ahead and use eBay parts just wait till you get the wrong one in the mail or need to do a warranty exchange.
Thanks for the video, haven’t replaced ball joints on a ford yet so this is very helpful and I like the way you respond to people’s somewhat rude nit picking. Much appreciated
Clanking noises and the grease boot around the joint will be ripped or missing. If you hear one clanking, chances are all 4 need replacing. My local shop wants $650 including tax and alignment to do both top and bottom. That is with me buying the parts. $150 for all the parts, I think it is worth giving it a try myself.
Good job dude. Thanks for taking the time to video your work.
What size is that axle nut and do you have to use a new one when you put it back together?
You got ripped off for $78 /peice. I got a 10pc kit from ebay for $110. Included ball joints+arms/sway bar links/bushings, both inner/outer tie rods and etc. All OEM+. Those parts look exactly the same as what mine look like too. Check out ebay for parts, only do free shipping unless you wanna pay more. (Not affiliated, just helping people out) I only got tie rods/sways done so far, thanks for the video. Helps a lot for the next parts
Thanks buddy; I have 2000 Explorer the wheels are gonna fall off any day now I suspect so time to do something about it LOL. Nice ( & appreciated by me) you shared your knowledge on the subject freely like this. Now I’m sure I can tackle this! I work in an Acura dealership (svc writer) so getting my car worked on cheaply AND successfully is an iffy proposition these days. Like the old saying goes ‘If you want something done right, do it yourself’ lol…
Thanks alot man. Your awesome. I was going to go buy a press but your method looks much better! Thanks man
so skipping the lower joint saves you around an hour?
Great video,I like the way you were concerned about the threads & the grease fittings.but you should of used that bungee to hang up your caliper.instead of the axel…
Thanks for the support and goodluck !
Mine is doing the same! What do you find out? I jacked it up and my wheel wobbles! Up and down.
Hey nit picking guys. He isn’t working at a Nascar pit stop. It is his garage! Thanks for the instruction! I am doing my truck tomorrow! Next time hang the Calipers for a zip tie.
Hey croom9 did you have to do anything with the tortion bar? I am a GM guy but am visiting with family and I need to do ball joints on a 1999 Explorer. It looked like you just popped the BJ and did not do anything with the TB, so I just wanted to check. Looks a lot easier than GM ball joints with coil springs. Also what were your symptoms and mileage? I looked at the bushings and that does not seem to be the problem. Thanks for any advice.
thanks bro mean vid 2 much
Did you really use a torque wrench as a breaker bar?
Did you not have to heat up the bottom of the steering knuckle to get that lower ball joint to let go? I had a bitch of a time with mine
Just did this whole job on my 4×4 ’03 Ranger…identical setup. I had the luxury of a 1/2″ impact and a torch so it way a little easier….good job though!
It can be. It can also be the wheel bearing. Is it 4×4?
When I jack my front end up I can move my tire up and down a little bit is this my ball joint???
When I take my tire off I can move my joint up and down a
have same vehicle with a v8. i looked at my lowers and notice the snap ring is not sitting flush. they stick up high enough on driver and passanger side that you can see the splines in the ball joint. is this a bad thing, did the mechanic push these in too far or do they wear out and push up over time.
Just curious, how long did it take in total time to replace the passenger’s ball joint and putting everything back together, an hr?
I have a ’95 Ford Explorer. To get to the lower ball joint, is it a lot different than the ’99 Explorer?
I got a quote that each lower ball joint is $92. The shop said I needed both front lower ball joints replaced, not the upper. The cost of labor to do this is nearly $300. Is that correct?
Yager, you can tell by looking at the bottom of the joint. Take off the tire and have a big light handy, if hour rubber boot is cracked and the ball is real dry, you will need to replace. Also the inside of your tire will ware bald.
Awesome video fellow! I have never done ball joints before and your video helped me out a lot. Thank you again for posting. God bless.
How do you know if the ball joint needs replaced?
good luck getting the caliper back on without undoing the to extra bolts you lazy fuck!
Eh, I want to use this opportunity to smash everyone’s rude ass comments.. But rather, good job man, saved me 450 minus parts and a grease gun this week. And for those asking specific questions, there’s no real better way to do anything than looking and thinking, err and patience. And again, thanks a ton, this is helping a lot of people. And, Skinny people rule, I didn’t hear you get winded once.
After watching you vid, changing the jin
Thank you for video very helpful.
With a proper torque wrench, the direction affects the mechanism no differently. There are two very important rules to remember, however. First, NEVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, only up to the desired torque. Second, if it is a “click” type, ALWAYS back off the adjustment when storing the wrench (keeping the mechanism preloaded is what’s bad for calibration). Big breaker bars are hazardous. To break the axle nut loose, have the vehicle on the ground and set the brake (wheel holds hub)
Glad you enjoyed the video, nit picking is always appreciated
You know hes a noob when he wastes time and doesnt take the caliper off as a whole assembly *just extra nuts to take off, wastes time and increases liability). This video is ok but find a better one
Fucking ipad. Anyways. Great vid. Ended up switching passenger 2 piece to one piece plus eccentrics.
Hey, thanks for making this video. Damn, worming those upper control arm bolts through the gas lines and
nice video ,hey do you have the lower ball joint part number.much appreciated
2-10 hours. depends on the mechanics nationality
actually you do i have a friend that is a ford tech and he even said you do and i have the ford oem work book and it says you have to.
actually you do i have a friend that is a ford tech and he even said you do and i have the ford oem work book and it says you have to.
Its gonna help ms with my 97 thunderbird
Great video I’ll remember this forever haha
I wish he had shoved the tire under the car.I cringe when a man puts his whole body inside a fender well.
In case no one told you it is a good practice to use a zip tie or piece of coat hanger to support your brake calipers while they are removed. Letting them dangle from their hoses is a sure fire way to get a small leak in your brake line(especially if the truck is over 10 years old) Not nit picking just an observation to be helpful. Otherwise great video. I now feel like I can take this on for doing mine on my 01 explorer. Thanks again!
Damn it’s so hard to find a mechanic you can trust.