…or, the Swirl Flaps of Death! Early Duratec HE motors had problematic tumble flaps which tended to fail and dump pieces of their metal rod into the engine’s intake ports, leading to disaster. Later versions of the manifold improved the design but they still wear and fail, and any presence of port flaps is a risk that all owners should understand.
As outlined in the video, you have two extremes to choose between:
1) Renew the entire inlet manifold with a replacement from Ford. You need to make sure to get the final design iteration, and you also need to upgrade the PCV components and oil separator as their design changed too.
2) Delete the flaps completely by removing them and their rod, and sealing up the actuator hole. This permanently eliminates failure risk at the expense of losing the flaps’ benefits (small increase in fuel usage and emissions).
Shown in the video is a 3rd compromise option which may be possible if your rod is not too badly worn:
3) Replace any worn flaps, flip bushings and rod 180 degrees to shift wear points (can only be done once), and reinspect in the future. Ford do not sell the rod as a part, and the bushings are stupidly overpriced, so inability to reuse these mandates option #1.
Amazon link for the flap assemblies (x4): http://amzn.to/2d3dawe
Part # for the bushings for the record: Ford 1317278 (x2)
If you need to replace the manifold gaskets, the part # (individual, you need four) is Ford 1119284 …
Amazon US: http://amzn.to/2bV8sLi | UK: http://amzn.to/2cpztel
… and the EGR inlet seal # is Ford 1119833.
J-B Weld (or other epoxy) can be used to seal up the rod hole if deleting…
Amazon US: https://amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: https://amzn.to/2woHtUC
Removing the intake manifold: https://youtu.be/vBxm5QjD0PY
(Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated!)
References & credits ~
Early yellow flap assemblies: Gamble, post #144 http://bit.ly/2cfoyzn
The Mondeo manifold saga: Robert Jenkins, http://www.robertjenkins.co.uk/mondeo/
Flaps vibration inside manifold: CamaroZ22M, https://youtu.be/tegzXoRbhiI
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Amazon links to relevant products (from the description):
Flap assemblies (x4) – http://amzn.to/2d3dawe
Manifold gasket – Amazon US: http://amzn.to/2bV8sLi | Amazon UK: http://amzn.to/2cpztel
J-B Weld epoxy – Amazon US: https://amzn.to/2HC7RRk | UK: https://amzn.to/2woHtUC
What happen if you run the car without the flaps and keep the actuator so you don't get actuator code
Sorry to be pedantic, but they are tumble flaps, not swirl. There is a difference.
Brilliant demonstration and fixes. Ford designed a junk engine. Is this the only vehicle this is used in?
My 2005 Mercury Mariner 2.3 had this issue, but in my case, Ford had relocated the flaps deeper into the manifold and they are sealed into the main body of the manifold, which is completely sealed. The only way to solve the rattle was to replace the entire manifold with a new one from Ford; about $200.00 U.S. at the time. The engine ran fine but sounded like it was falling apart.
Great video. I’m probably going to remove the flaps completely in my 07 Focus if they’re worn out. Do I need to fill the holes where the bearings go too or can they be left open? Will removing the flaps cause a check engine light to come on?
Hi! does a 2013 focus 2.0 duratec has the same issue?
Excellent thank you
Что характерно,и без слов понятно,а именно проблема в вихревых заслонках,отчего происходит дребезжание,как заменить и какой артикул.
Just take them out disconect the battery for short while and plug the vacuum up ,flaps should be in a girls knickers not an inlet manifold ,the BMW mini engine has the same crap they must have made a billion in work & parts from this crap !
Excellent video. Very Informational and I've already had my own experience with this issue/taken my intake off multiple times. Thank you
I have a 2.0L 2005 ford focus and took the intake manifold off and removed the flaps of death. It's an arduous task with many sensors that don't want to come loose and none of them are the same! So each one has to be done differently. Most of them require pushing in the middle of the plastic electronic part and pulling, but not all. Like me, you will have to look at them and figure out how to release them. Ok, some hints on other things:
1. Consider replacing the PCV valve and put in a new PCV hose. These are not cheap if you get the proper parts (mine cost $15 for the PCV valve and $28 for the hose). Normally you cut the PCV hose off to release the intake manifold and then replace it, because getting a pliers down to the hose clamp and pulling the hose off the PCV valve is an enormously difficult task. Just cut and replace. The PCV valve has a plastic clip holder that you must not break! If you do, you must buy the entire oil separator to get a new one and these were $33 on Ebay. To pry off the clip, you need to remove the oil separator which is held on by 8 bolts, two of which you must have an 8mm wrench to release and the other 6 you can use a ratchet and socket. Then use a small small screwdriver and try to pry the clip off – some people use a knife. Be careful! Clean the oil separator with brake clean. Then put the oil separator back. At this point, my suggestion is to connect the PCV hose on the bottom (hose clamp) but on the top- install the PCV valve on the PCV hose (hose clamp) and you must leave the plastic clip on the PCV valve then when you get the intake manifold on the car you can then just press the PCV valve on to the oil separator and then using the long rod that held the flaps of death just press down on the plastic clip to snap it on. Otherwise, it's almost impossible to put the PCV hose on the PCV valve by using a pliers on the hose clamp with such limited space.
2. Clean the MAP sensor in the intake manifold. You need an electronics parts cleaner for this – I used CRC Electronics Part Cleaner (wal-mart). The MAP sensor is located near the bottom of the intake manifold, and is held on with a 20 Star screw. So do it while off the vehicle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icgaLiEoohc
3. While the intake manifold is off the car, clean the MAF sensor with a special MAF cleaner. The MAF requires special care, so handle it such. It's held on by two 20 star screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9PT8ZN3TXI&t=24s
4. Clean the throttle body – and there is a special cleaner for this also. Wal-Mart has the MAF and Throttle body cleaner in one package in their auto parts.
5. Use poster putty or some other stuff that will seal the plug hole where that square rod was.
6. Replace all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold while off the car. So much easier!
7. Clean all the sensor connectors with the electronics part cleaner.
8. Replace the manifold gaskets with new ones cause you don't want a leak there!
9. The manifold intake runner control (MIRC) is basically useless at this point, but the electronics need it. The control has a vacuum hose that connects to the front of the intake manifold – make sure you replace this. The second hose goes goes to the vacuum actuator that controlled the flaps of death. What I did was connect this hose to the plug on the right side of the MIRC, because that hose now serves no purpose, neither does the actuator.
10. Use a torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts at 13 ft lbs. All other bolts or screws snug.
11. You need to reset you electronics to get the car to work right. After doing all this work my car just died – not holding an idle! Disconnect the battery. Reconnect. Turn on ignition switch (not to start!, just to run) and let it sit for about 30-45 seconds then turn off. Try starting. It took me some time and feathering the throttle to get it to run, but then bingo, the computer saw the changes and fixed itself and the car's idle was ok.
I have the 2.5 version of this engine on my Fusion. Luckily, I don't have the flaps.
https://youtu.be/xRSs7-p-g5g
What do you think this noise could be, thanks
Thank you for this great video. I really appreciate the format of audio edited with video. Easy watch and a good use of my time.
I do have an important question.about option 3 as I will be choosing this option.
Will this trigger an engineer code?
I live with in the metro area of PDX Oregon.
We have emission test every 2 years and check engine lights will fail the vehicle.
Does removing the glass create an engine code?
Hi Craig, is this the same engine B4204S3 of Ford/Mazda? Same engine in some Volvos. My volvo has B4204S3 engine 2011. Same problem will occur soon I believe and got to follow your advice. Thanks heaps. Great videos.
All your videos are extremely well made, the filming and audio is top notch. Thanks for helping. I’ve done 3 repairs with your videos.