How To Clean A Ford MAF Sensor – Simple & Effective

How To Clean A Ford MAF Sensor – Simple & Effective

Cleaning a Ford mass air flow sensor. This procedure should work on most Ranger Mustang Taurus F150 etc. from the 1990’s and 2000’s. After doing this, my tru…

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Aaron Ewing says:

Never use anything but maf cleaner, cleaning is only a temporary solution,
sensor components located in the top plastic housing are usually the fault.
Spend the hundred bucks or so and get a new one or you will pay at the fuel
pump.

Floydd says:

get ya a pack of driver bits for 5 bucks

Seth Zink says:

The reason they tell you not to touch the sensor wires is because they will
break easily or if you leave oil or fiber contaminants behind they could
cause the sensor wire(s) to fry as they cook off. As he noted in the video
the wires heat up. That’s also why youn should leave it to dry before
reinstalling. I don’t see any harm in using pain thinner as it is
non-corrosive. Carb and brake cleaner gases become corrosive when heated.

jesse knoblock says:

That screw is a Secure Torx T20 bit, can be bought at any auto/parts/tool
store. Canadian Tire, NAPA, Part Source, Princess Auto or whatever kinda
store you have around should have it. Maybe even a Home Depot or something
but I know auto stores definitely have them. Secure Torx because it has the
hole in the middle of the bit and T20 is the size. Don’t get a normal Torx
bit make sure you get SECURE TORX.

BATMEX44 says:

acetone works fast and much better…

ohYew812 says:

Ford says to NEVER use paint thinner or anything other than CNC electrical
cleaner!

longbeachdirtbag says:

How the fuck do you know the paint thinner wont hurt it? You don’t.

tyler jenkins says:

This is also. A good way to damage the sensor

John Simpson says:

Or you can just buy a can of MAF sensor cleaner for $4 and do this job in
30secs

Wayne Fraser says:

I had a bad spark knock in my 2000 Ranger 5 speed . Tried a lot od
different things to get rid of it . Changing the thermastat from 197 Degree
to 180 degree stopped the spark knock and the truck is running great.

bleachinuri says:

Are you a douche bag, Perk E is absolutely correct

bleachinuri says:

from your fuel trim numbers. A good visual inspection of your engine can
yield valuable info, sometimes it’s just a vacuum line that popped off.
What this guy is showing people is what not to do. This is some shit
farmers do on old junk farm trucks and shit, NOT someones daily driver.

bleachinuri says:

bring it to a garage, sometimes maf sensors will be bad and not throw a
code, Maf sensors are frequency generating sensors,(wires are heated to
392degrees f as air goes across they cool down and it needs more current to
maintain the temp, there for creating different frequency.)so sometimes you
will get signal drop outs, you will not get proper frequency ranges,etc.
The only way to properly diagnose these are with a lab oscilloscope. Also
if its running lean you can find out alot of information

Michael Petty says:

And thats if your lucky. A new one for my T-bird is $167, or a refurb for
around $120.

timcat100 says:

Don’t worry your Ford will die either way. My 2010 E150 just blew out it’s
second spark plug and I had to be towed for the second time now at 209,000
hiway miles. I HATE FORDS

skyler goodboy says:

Thanks for the tip, the maple syrup worked!

Jennies Garage says:

Thanks! That’s just the way it goes. Not the first time I’ve caught heat
for thinking out of the box 🙂

Jennies Garage says:

Check for vacuum leaks too. Also the fuel filter. Good luck!

Anthany Krebs says:

Thank you ‘Jennies Garage’, don’t worry about these haters, If they knew
how to do it today wouldn’t be watching these videos now would they?

Simon Grove says:

Thanks for this. My Focus MK1 is bumpy on idle and I think the MAF is at
Fault. OBD says the system is too lean!

dirk diggler says:

good vid but why not just buy a new one? are they that expensive?

Michael Boland says:

Those sensors are 110.00 dollars

Jennies Garage says:

Thanks! Sometimes one has to improvise to keep on truckin’

Bob M. Tyranny Destroyer says:

Nice bolt removal freestyle! Those skills are needed for working on cars!!!
Sensor looked good too/

Jennies Garage says:

“Always use the correct driver” I didn’t have one, and my method, although
crude, got the job done. “Never use paint thinner” Why? It won’t damage the
sensor wire, and will clean off years of burnt-on residue. “Never touch the
wire” If the sensor hasn’t been cleaned in 200k miles, scrubbing it may be
the only way. “The spray is all you need” That may work if you have
religiously cleaned your sensor since new at every oil change, but not one
that looked like mine. BTW my sensor is working fine…

alonso carbajal says:

dont mess with the maf sensor or its going to run like shit

Padriac McFadden says:

Wow….talk about a shadetree mechanic….15 seconds in and I was
disgusted. Cryptic torx with a stub? Try Tamper-Proof Torx. Who loosens
screws that small with vice grips and a razor blade??!! Don’t listen to
this guy, you’ll hurt yourself.

timcat100 says:

You might as well dip it in Maple syrup! Also add some Maple syrup to the
tank to clean the injectors while your at it…Paint thinner…250.00
mistake right there folks!

Michael Scott says:

You did not say what year the ranger is and you should have had the engine
running for a before and after. But otherwise a great little video…It may
have helped me solve the condition code p1120 and p1120 from the (Mac tools
scan codes). All about fuel and air mixture. My truck now has 204k it is an
02 ranger. I say these things for others who may come and see what is up
with the MAF TPS

Jennies Garage says:

Glad you enjoyed the video, and thanks for the info about the bits!

Bob Barker says:

Hello, jenniesgarage. Thanks for the info! By the way, I have a set of bits
for those particular screws and they are officially called Security Torx
screws. Just FYI. Thanks again.

brettyrae says:

Have the code read at an auto parts store. You may have an EGR issue, as in
low EGR flow.

J. Abulebda says:

Thank you …kind of you…

Jennies Garage says:

I’m happy to help, thanks!

brettyrae says:

Also known as a “pin-in Torx” head. FWIW.

SIKMACH1 says:

Give those nails a trim

TheLambolover13 says:

this is the exact opposite of what u need to do. why not just buy the MAF
sensor cleaner

Jennies Garage says:

Good idea! I was also thinking of using a dremel with a cutoff wheel to
slot them so a falt blade screwdriver would work. Thanks!

Jennies Garage says:

Happy to help out!

16918Cmh says:

My truck is sending a code that it is running lean on both banks. Cleaning
this turned off the engine light for about 5 min. Would replacing it solve
the problem?

jmshaw357 says:

Why couldn’t you cut slots in the screws with a hacksaw or dremel? No more
problem– just use a small flat screwdriver from then on.

Jennies Garage says:

Glad you enjoyed it, happy to help!!

Jennies Garage says:

Thanks for the info! I was lucky enough to remove them with the pliers, but
the proper tool definitely would’ve come in handy!

rhpham2 says:

how many miles on your cars?

nutered says:

good vid, just wondering if instead of using q tips try carb or intake
cleaner to wash off the carbon?

Cortez Harris says:

Why don’t he just buy sensor cleaner that sprays on- that’s formulated for
this job?

austineswann1 says:

I actually cleaned my throttle body today and now it runs worse. Idling at
300 to 800rpm before stalling out.

Cortez Harris says:

I think it’s always good to allow the sensor to air dry before
reinstalling.

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