How to change your own oil DIY Ford Explorer

How to change your own oil DIY Ford Explorer

With the economy the way it is, more people have resorted to trying to do their own repairs and maintenance. This is the basic procedure for changing your ow…

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Joyce Alfred says:

Where do you pour the oil?

thoroughbredchick1 says:

Very thankful for people like this who do something so helpful for those of
us less fortunate to pay garage labor to do this work for us. Thanks.

james robinson says:

Thanks for making this video. 

Tabby Corales says:

Ur a life saver thank u

D-Beezy Baby says:

hahaha thought so, i emptied my oil but couldnt replace the filter cuz its
stuck on there pretty tight. but i might have to just take it in cuz i
could smell oil in my over flow and they told me that it could be a head
gasket problem, plus the oil came out brown almost muddy lookin.

roadragecustoms says:

@hischomper Thanks for watching. So, were you like, “Happy Mother’s Day.
Here’s oil & a filter. Go change your own oil.”?

bordenarve says:

Nice video. I’ll try this with my 05 Escape. Thanks

Timothy Fannin says:

@roadragecustoms would this also work on a 1999 f150 4.6?

clock143 says:

what kind of oil did you use? i have an 03 explorer v6 flex fuel. i’ve been
reading threads about switching from 5w30 to 5w20 for a smoother running
engine, better gas mileage and fewer changes. any truth to that? id
appreciate any info.

roadragecustoms says:

@TimmyPalin The oil filter location may be different, but it should be
similar.

ozmedia says:

@clock143 One your explorer is over 100K miles it’s best not to use
symthetic oils. The detergents in synthetic oils will slowly eat away at
the grunge that is now sealing older gaskets and will often result in
seepage. I only use synthetics when changin oil in newer cars (after break
in period) and the only synth I’d use is Mobile1…well MAYBE Rroyal Purple
if that’s all that’s around.TIP: Avoid synthetic trans fluid in older
Explorers too. It wears at the stator and creates converter slip.

roadragecustoms says:

Between your bender and my Mustang, all I need is tubing before I can make
a nice roll cage video!

roadragecustoms says:

@priceless43615 It should be very similar.

ozmedia says:

@LatinTaxii Converter slippage is very common. Synthetic trans fluid will
increase slippage too. The Ex’s have a common issue where either the TCC or
EPC solenoid read excessive slippage, replacing the valve body solenoids at
$60 ea saves you a rebuild or new trans. O/D flashing is addressed by a
ford TSB, gasket separates. $50 for a bonded gasket and cover plate,most
shops will tell you you need a new tranny. Explorerforum for details.
Disconnect battery for 10 mins to reset O/D light.

roadragecustoms says:

After you flush your oil, slap your aunt.

666EPITAPH says:

i have a 1991 ford explorer i guessing its sorta the same?

clock143 says:

@roadragecustoms hey thanks i appreciate the info. i figured i’d stick with
whats on the cap so i already threw in the 5w30. thanks again

D-Beezy Baby says:

my aunt put water in my oil when it over heated on her, is there a
different procedure than this to take care of it besides flushing it with
oil after u empty

IamDestruktor says:

Thanks for the video but question… I have an 04 Explorer and going to
attempt my first self oil change. Do i have to hoist up the truck on a jack
or anything, or can i just drain the oil while on ground level?

kempr0426 says:

Thank you so much! Major help for this DIY Chick!

roadragecustoms says:

Auto parts stores and tool dealers sell cups that fit the bottom of the oil
filter (different size for each part number) and can be rotated with an
extension and a ratchet. If the filter is already crushed from trying to
get it with pliers, or even if it isn’t, there is also a tool called an oil
filter claw that fits multiple sizes of oil filters and tightens it’s grip
on the filter as you rotate it counter-clockwise with a ratchet and
extension to remove the filter. Hope that helps.

roadragecustoms says:

You’re right. Thanks. I’ll change the description. There is no dual
overhead cam 4.0L Explorers. I had it right in the tags but not in the
description. I can’t type and the “d” is next to the “s”.

Dave Saunders says:

Great video–how about one on pulling the radiator and replacing it?

ji553r says:

great vid man i got a 05 im about to change the oil

roadragecustoms says:

@itneverwasme It isn’t a bad thing to do. It is an easy habit to get out
of. There are many vehicles that don’t have vertical filters. On these,
you’d be pouring out the oil while you install the filter.

roadragecustoms says:

@LatinTaxii You probably have a transmission that is starting to fail. Scan
the computer for codes related to the transmission. Watch the engine speed
compared to the vehicle speed. The transmission may be slipping. The last
Explorer I had with the same problem got a new transmission.

johntall124 says:

@roadragecustoms awesome. thanks

Proven Zoo says:

thanks dude, this saved me some money.

Chyne20 says:

Can u do a vid on transmission fluid change?

roadragecustoms says:

@TheCrazychick90 They are very similar.

Keesh M says:

Would this same method work on a 2001 Ford exporer sport?

roadragecustoms says:

@clock143 I wouldn’t change it less often unless it was synthetic. I also
wouldn’t use thinner than recommended on an engine with 70,000 miles or
more. I was using Valvoline. I don’t recall if I used 5/30, or 5/20. But,
yes, in theory, 5/20 should give better fuel economy.

roadragecustoms says:

@nemock If I had a vehicle that needed one, I’d o it.

Rita Spicer says:

This was SO helpful! Thank you!

hischomper says:

Awesome! Thank you so much! This helped me teach my mom how to change the
oil in her car 🙂

clock143 says:

@roadragecustoms thanks. so is synthetic better? right now my trucks at
134k. i drive A LOT. im going to do the oil change today. i bought 5w30 but
if synthetic 5w20 is better and saves gas i’ll put that in instead.

newballin says:

would this work on my 2000 mercury mountaineer?

roadragecustoms says:

@johntall124 Draining the fluid is easy. Remove the drain plug. To check
fluid level correctly requires a scan tool to verify trans temp of 80 –
120F. Then, vehicle specific adapters are required along with a pump to
inject the fluid into the hole in the drain plug. It is a plug in a plug.
If you don’t have a scanner or the tools to check & adjust the fluid level,
it’s cheaper to pay someone to do it.

Robinson Bernavel says:

Thank you

Haoleplumber94 says:

The oil change light is the best part. Just like you said “THE So CALLED
PRO’S” like jiffy lube ECT. Don’t know how to reset light. So right after
you get oil changed every time you Start your car it says CHANGE OIL in big
orange letters. You made. It easy. Thanks BRO

clock143 says:

@roadragecustoms the oil cap says 5w30 but online and all ford forums i
read that ford now recommends 5w20 on all vehicles after 01. i’ve looked up
threads on it and find a mixed bag of reviews. my trucks got 134k on it. i
drive A LOT. would it be better to run 5w20 synthetic or stick to whats on
the cap?

jorge andres ramirez uribe says:

heyy you need to fill the filter oil before install. if you start engine
with not oil in filter there is a time that engine run without lubricate.
for next time fill filter with 1/4 of oil then install.

roadragecustoms says:

@clock143 With 134k, I’d use what you bought. The minimal fuel mileage
improvement of thinner oil won’t compensate for the thicker oil’s ability
to fill voids left by engine wear. Too thin of an oil with high mileage can
shorten the life of the engine. Stick with what’s on the cap now, and later
you may have to move up to a thicker oil, maybe 10/40 if you start to have
engine noise.

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